European River Cruise - Amsterdam, Monday 2010 August 16

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Our two days in Amsterdam are going by in a whirl!

My flight (August 13) from Calgary to London was pleasant, if a bit cramped. British Airways provided pillow, blanket, socks and an eye mask; this last one I found unexpectedly effective – prevents popping one’s eyes open to peek at every noise. So I napped before supper and slept OK afterwards. The flight took off slightly late at 10:00 pm yet arrived on time at Heathrow at 2:30 pm, thanks to tail winds.

My seat companion, Catherine, mentioned that in returning to her home in Brighton she would be traveling on the same bus that would be taking me to Gatwick Airport. She was my guide as we swiftly passed through immigration at Terminal 5, and she was helpful in finding the ticket kiosk and the bus. She kindly gave me her number in case I came to Brighton.

Gatwick was under construction which meant walking in the drizzle for a couple hundred yards. Inside the terminal I went through security easily and was surprised at the hustle bustle in their extensive shopping area. Upstairs on a long balcony were most of the food outlets. I had a full English breakfast, my body being a little unsure of the time (3:30 pm). Then I walked around the shopping for 25 minutes for exercise, about four laps.

Taking off from Gatwick, I saw a perfect “anvil” thunderhead . To my surprise and pleasure, I flew “Executive Class” (points member) for the 40 minutes to Amsterdam, during which I was served a large roasted vegetable salad and a quarter bottle of wine.

We arrived ten minutes early. I rushed to the Immigration so fast the officer had to wait for me to get my passport out – he commented I certainly wouldn’t lose it! Then I almost ran (with my full complement of hand luggage) to the concourse of the terminal and out the door to the buses. The shuttle to my hotel stopped at 9:00 and I was out there at 8:50. For the next forty minutes I was told different wrong things by six or seven people, until finally I just got a taxi (€45).

At the NH Barbizon Palace hotel, I was registering at reception, heard my name and then Ian’s voice. He and Deirdre and Barbara were sitting a few feet away! They were waiting for the reception to clear to leave a message for me. We agreed on a 9:00 am start for the next day and went up to our proximate rooms. Half-flight of stairs down from the entry and the bathroom was the bed and desk area. I had a large window that actually opened onto a canal (fourth floor), where a large crowd was raucously enjoying a festival. (In front of the hotel was also a thick crowd.) Later I learned it was Hearts Day, when men dress up as women and vice versa. On Sunday walking in the same street (entrance to the red Light district) we saw several campy transvestites but no vice versa.

Sunday morning started at a restaurant a few streets away, which became our go-to place. About 10:00 we all ate hearty breakfasts – farmer’s omelet for me with ham and vegetable filling. Back to our hotel for a bit, then back in the same direction as the restaurant to buy canal tour boat tickets. After a brief consultation we bought 24 hour passes, and Deirdre and I bought the Van Gogh Museum add-on. Great decisions!

First we took the “traditional route” (Green Line) which puttered by the old buildings and canals. The recorded commentary was informative. After about an hour of this, Barbara was tired and Ian took her back to our hotel for a mutually desired rest. Deirdre and I took the red Line (Museums) to the Van Gogh Museum, via the area around the Rijksmuseum. In a nearby park, we had tea and sandwiches to fortify us. The vendor helpfully told us the Van Gogh was to the right and a five-minute walk to the line-up. After about three minutes, we saw the end of the line. But our tickets promised no waiting, so we walked past all the people to the entrance. Sure enough, we were shown to a special line and entered quickly.

Although the oil paintings were glassed, viewers were allowed to get right up to the paintings, so seeing the brush-strokes and paint application was possible. Many people were there but we got close to every painting. I was glad to have listened to the National Gallery (London) audio-course, because it gave me an appreciation of the developments in Van Gogh’s work and life. Amazing to think he learned on his own to paint; and the layout of the gallery helped us see his progression from darker, more traditional paintings to the brighter, more colourful subjects and treatments in his mature years, and to the final darkest years. I enjoyed the “editorializing” or “content” of some paintings; however, his efforts at Japanese styles did not attract me so much.

By reading the boat schedule carefully, we were able to return to the hotel quite quickly on the Orange Line, which included the beautifully preserved Gentlemen’s Quarter – very old beautifully architected townhouse and warehouses with stylish gables.

For supper we walked to dam square to another NH hotel with a view onto the square – very ordinary menu and no tables with a view. After looking at a few other uninspiring restaurants on the square, we walked back to our restaurant of the morning for an excellent dinner. I had delicious, tender mussels with roasted-red-pepper sauce, mustard sauce and herb sauce for dipping, and salad and frites. All washed down with truly excellent draught Heineken. Back to the hotel, where I had a restless night.

Now this morning – started an hour earlier at the same restaurant – this time smoked salmon mixed in scrambled eggs. Lovely. After a short interval at our hotel to check out and store the bags, we returned to the boat pier to take the Orange Line - Outer Canal. The boat was a tedious twenty minutes late. But when it did come, we got seats in open-roofed section – great for photos. This was most interesting as we went out into the harbour and around districts of all ages – a wide variety or architectures addressing office and housing needs. The sun shone for most of it – a welcome change and good for photos.

Ian and Barbara collected their luggage from our hotel and went on to the Renaissance Hotel, tour meeting location. Deirdre and I briskly walked along the long central station road and through construction hurdles created by urban renewal projects (apparently), arriving without confusion at the architecturally wonderful new central library (3 years old – opened on 2007 July 7, also the director’s birthday, as we learned).

Needing lunch, we negotiated what seemed to be convoluted practices for ordering a sandwich (split between us) and coffees. Mostly the confusion might have been language barriers. (D and I speak no Dutch, of course.) We ate in what we later learned was one of four cafés on the premises – on their extensive outdoor patio, with thing warm sun further cheering our already cheerful mood.

Inside, the library is welcoming, with ultra modern architecture (all angles and geometry), and full of light (natural and artificial). Features I liked were: the variety of florescent light fixtures, sometimes exposed and sometimes shaded, never glary; excellent sight lines across the floor and out to the views of the city; laptop computers around every stairwell and escalator, plus Mac stations in open pods, complemented by round spongy balls with a cut-out seat; and, pianos in the open for anyone to play. On the fifth floor a librarian saw us wandering around, probably looking stunned, and asked if she could help us. We told her of our roles and purpose. She explained some of the library’s history and features, for example, the opening late hours, and how the vertical soft florescent tubes and baffles on the stacks allowed them to eliminate ceiling lighting.

Now it was time for us to hustle back to the Barbizon Hotel for our luggage. I suggested what turned out to be a quicker route – complete with a few pictures of an old church. Deirdre knew the way to the Renaissance, where we were warmly welcomed and invited to wait in a side lounge. Thankfully there was tea (etc.) available to quench our definite thirst. Ian had come to find us, encountering us a few blocks from the hotel, and we joined Barbara who was already chatting with an Australian couple. Most of the tour is Australian as Scenic Cruises is based there.

Soon enough we were on buses to the mooring on the river. Everyone welcomed us warmly on board, providing glasses of iced tea as we waited briefly in the lounge for our turn to check in – which consisted only of giving in our passports and receiving card keys. I had quite a trouble persuading an enthusiastic staff member to wait for the others to escort us to our rooms, so we could see where we all are. We are all mid-ship: Ian and Deirdre are across from me and Barbara not far down the ship.

The cabin is luxurious – square with two beds making a double bed, with duvets and large pillows, black and white fittings, including two narrow closets and a similar cupboard with drawers, shelves and the safe. Reasonably large bathroom with corner shower, large sink, good counter and three cupboards. Terrycloth robes are provided, as are shampoos, cream, etc.

It took me the time until the 6:00 briefing to unpack, although I could have used a nap. There are 165 passengers, who can all fit into the lounge or the dining room at the same time. The ship moves quietly and seemingly quickly, although I later learned it travels at 15 mph. Our first dinner was a buffet but all the others will be served.

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Photos

Barbizon Hotel room
Never had such an oddly designed entry - comfortable and space efficient

Hearts Festival
Almost my first view of Amsterdam

Canal bridge
Concentric canals are intersected to allow boats to go everywhere.

Houses on the Canal
Historic "Gentleman's Quarter" - name speaks for itself

Amstel Hotel
Fabulous hotel seen on our canal cruise

Amsterdam Public Library
Could Calgary have such a library?

Cafe at the Library
Great place for watching people and their boats

Barbizon Hotel
Where we stayed - central location close to lots of useful places

Scenic Cruises Cabin
Easy to stay here for two weeks

Amsterdam Train Station
Looks great from the outside - unfortunately very dull inside

Hearts Festival
Daytime view from the Barbizon Hotel

Library interior
Imagine our future

Library shelves
Effective, efficient and attractive