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Published: October 2nd 2009
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Marianne is a darling. She has given us her little house, with all the comforts we require, and even in her absence we are beginning to get the hang of Amsterdam living. (Of course, there have been some slip-ups. This morning, for instance, I mistakenly added buttermilk to Ron's coffee and it took us a long time to figure out why it was curdling so ferociously.) So our goals have been modest: to fit in as best as we can, take care of ourselves in every way, and have a good time.
We decided to start with bike etiquette.
Ron is riding Marianne's city bike, with its hand brake and gears, and I am on her sturdy workhorse, with a rusty bell and a big basket in front. It makes me feel quite important as I ride along. No spandex, no helmets. To wear either of these is geeky, and we'd stand out like sore thumbs. To be entirely cool, Ron should be cycling while talking on his cell phone and I should be wearing high heels, applying lipstick and having two school-aged children bristling out in the front and back. Obviously, we are not there yet.
Everyone bikes. This morning, I saw an infant straight from the womb barreling along (On a two-wheeler! No training wheels!) next to her grandfather. Next, I saw an octogenarian couple, riding side by side, he sucking on a cold pipe and she wearing a gold purse around her neck. They looked dressed for the opera.
We dress like Bag People. Ron wears a fuzzy ball cap with ear flaps, hunches over the handlebars and bears down with a death grip. He has almost been clipped, twice, by speeding vespas, and is no match for businesswomen chatting to each other as they ride in tandem. I have borrowed Marianne's yellow poncho and it reaches well past my knees. As an added touch, I trail a chequered scarf so Ron can pick me out in a crowd. You know those plastic shower caps they give out in hotels? Well, in a stroke of brilliance I used the one I stole from Dublin to keep my bike seat from getting soggy in the rain. Now, whenever I return from lunch or shopping, I can hop right on without getting my bum wet. So far, I haven't seen anyone else be half as clever.
My advice for a long and healthy life: always keep your front wheel at a sharp angle to the tram tracks. Head right across it, not alongside. I'm convinced that getting stuck in a tram track could be lethal. So far, I haven't seen anyone doing this either but, knowing us, we could be first.
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Ron
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My two-bits
No fooling about the tram tracks....I almost fell in traffic......the amsterdamers collectively gasped at my faux pas. Avoiding the centrum. Pedalling past horses, farms and fields for several kilometers. The destination....super modern shopping centre (largest in Amsterdam) and euro therapy.