The attractive young girl beat enthusiastically on the drum. The assistant stood respectfully to one side. I made a mental note to email the Other Half to see if she wanted to apply for an apprentice role in drumming circles. We were watching the Red Eagles of Milsami Orhei set up their display of banners and warm up their musical reportoire. Seven hours earlier we had been walking the eerie streets of Tiraspol, before making the journey back to Chisinau from Transnistria. The Gara Central Bus Station was it's usual chaotic self, even at 8.30 am on a Sunday morning. The market was in full swing and the shared minibus drivers were touting their next journey. We were massively ahead of schedule and wandered through the mass of activity to the Cosmos Hotel to drop our
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