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This post is two days behind. We are currently on the train to Verona (wait until you read that entry).
It was an early day, but we did manage to eat breakfast as it was uncertain that we would have time for lunch after the Vatican. All of the day’s activities were pre-booked and had very specific times so a bit more scheduled than normal. The first stop was S. Peter’s Basilica. To get to the Vatican from our hotel was pretty easy, the B metro line to the train station, transfer to the A line, the get off at Octtavia, with a final walk to St. Peter’s square. We got there around 8:15 and the square was pretty empty, compared to later in the day when it would be packed.
The day was cool, sunny but cool. Walking from the metro to St. Peter’s square you have to fight the hawkers trying to sell you tours and convince you that you are going the wrong direction, when you know that you are not. Occasionally, you do find one that is in fact helpful. We managed to find the Omni office easily and even had enough time for pictures
Door to the Sanctuary
It had some religious purpose but I just don't remember what or why.and to relax a bit. When the office opened we checked in, got our stickers for the later tour of the Sistine Chapel and instructed where to enter for the Basilica Tour. Because we bought the combination Vatican/Roman pass we got to skip the forming long line to get into the Basilica, which was not so bad now, but when we got out of the Basilica it was insane.
We waited a few minutes for the gates to open, went through our special security line ahead of all the masses and then picked up our audio guide. It was early enough in the day, that the group tours had not really started and the Basilica was still easy to navigate. The audio guide was informative, actually to informative. I listened until they got in to the greatness of the catholic church and wonders it has done (seems they forget all about the crusades and the Spanish inquisition.) We spent about an hour or so walking around taking pictures, Christina strayed a couple of times to areas she wasn’t supposed to be in and was chastised for trying to dip her fingers in the roped off holy water.
After
St. Peter's Chair
I doubt he really sat in it. the Basilica we walked aback to the office where we started to wait for a visit to the Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel. It was really all about the Chapel and not the museums, really didn’t have that type of time today. Our guide, showed up promptly a 11:10, of course it was to start at 11:00. There was a large group of us I would guess at least 100. Some were doing the gardens and the museum other, like us just the museum. It was a bit of a walk to the entrance of the museums, but I would rather walk then wait in the line wrapped around the wall to get in with general admission. It was even longer because every time a group tour came, general admission had to wait until we all got through. Unlike the Basilica, this place was packed, almost couldn’t move. You just followed the crowds until you found a sign that offered a shorter route. We took every opportunity to take the fastest route to the only reason we were on this tour and that was to see the Sistine Chapel and the Creation of Adam by Michelangelo. We were patient, but
the crowds were insane and there was next to no air conditioning, at one point through what I am calling the hall of maps, the crowd was worse than any we have ever experienced in the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles (Versailles is worth the crowds not so sure about the Vatican). Finally, after at least an hour we made it to the Sistine Chapel.
The chapel itself was nothing like what we expected. It was a very understated box, that just happened to have incredible art everywhere. Pictures are forbidden so I can’t show you, but we had our opera glasses and got a very good close up view. The chapel was not as crowded, but not jammed. The guards, continuously try to keep the crowd in the center and from blocking the pathway. It was pretty much like herding cats. Not to mention, they would periodically say scussi silencio per favore. Really, you’re going to try and keep 300 people in a small room quiet. Not going to happen without the Pope making an appearance.
Our tour complete, we exited the chapel back on to St. Peter’s Square, at this point the crowds were now 10
Swiss Guard
Such a butch outfit times what they were when we started. I can only imagine the throngs during a papal mass. We headed back towards the metro station, bought a hat, just needed to finally cover my head, made a quick ATM stop and found a place for a quick lunch. This was the first sit down lunch, and it was just pretty average, which is totally what we anticipated given the proximity to the Vatican and all the tourists. We had a couple of pizza’s (ok not great) and Jerry and I split a bowl of pasta with pomodoro sauce. I had a much-needed glass of Pinot Grigio.
After a quick lunch we got back on the metro and headed for our tour of the Colosseo. We arrived a bit early but gave us an opportunity to rest a bit before the tour. A brief history of the Colosseo, first that is not the name that the Romans used, in stead is was the amphitheater of Flavia. It opened in 80 AD and operated for 500 years. There were games pretty much every day until they were finally abolished. The Colosseo was built on the cite of the Palace of the Emperor
Nero, he was a much-hated emperor and the Colosseo was built on this site to rid Rome of any memory of him, the primary purpose of the Colosseo was the gladiator games, basically the killing of exotic animals, people, slaves and of course Christians.
The tour itself was very informative, but the crowds were getting large. Not height of season crowded but still had to suffer some pushing and shoving. The guide did have some technically difficult with the mic, but it was resolved and the tour went on. The tour lasted about 45 minutes. It was supposed to be the underground tour, including the third level and the main stage. Neither happened. But we still saw things we did not see 12 years ago. Christina, opted out of the tour and went back to her hotel. After the official tour Jerry and I walked around a bit more then headed back to our hotel for wine and rest.
I finished up the blog from the 18
th and posted it and took a bit of a disco nap before we got ready for dinner.
Dinner
The night’s dinner was at a place frequented by
Romans. They line up to get in, but if you don’t have a reservation it simply it is not going to happened. In fact, when we arrived there was already a line and half of them were turned away. The restaurant is in the Barberini area, where we will be staying on our last couple of nights of the trip. It was a short walk and we didn’t even get lost.
Hostaria Romana is nothing fancy, but it is very good food. It has three levels, the main floor, where we sat, small area in the back and a downstairs area, which could be quite large, but we didn’t really see that section.
The tables were very close together and the place was packed. There was one server for our entire area he was rushing everywhere. A few mistakes were made in our order, which only meant that we go things didn’t order but were still good and at no charge. Jerry and I started with Prosecco, what else and Christina had an Aperol spritz. There is a dish of the night here. So, let’s begin.
Appetizers *Prosciutto S. Daniele with mozzarella
*Carciofa alla giardia
(fried artichokes)
*Carciofa alla Romana (steamed artichoke in olive oil) not ordered
Primi *Penne al Arrabbiata
*Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Entrees *Saltimbocca alla Romana – Jerry
* Maialino Lattarino al Forno – (Suckling pig) Chris
*Funghi porcini alla griglia – (grilled porcini mushrooms) Christina. Good but very salty even for Christina
*Insalata Capriscciosa – Shared (mixed salad)
And we finally ordered dessert.
Dolce *Ricotta cheesecake – Jerry
*Tiramisu – Chris (good but mine is better)
* Pana Cotta – Christina
Dinner was much better than Piperno but not as good as Armando al Pantheon. We had a decent bottle of Lazio red, which was too strong for Christina.
After dinner, strolled back to the Metro stop and back to the hotel. Tomorrow will be our day in Rome for this part of the trip and our first cooking class, which is one of the main reasons I wanted to come back to Rome in the first place.
Dish of the Night: Penne Al Arrabbiata
Today’s step count: 331.
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