Mediterranean Cruise 2016 Day 3


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September 26th 2016
Published: September 29th 2016
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Feeling much refreshed after a good night's sleep. Another beautiful day awaits us outside. We enjoy buffet breakfast at the hotel. The cheese and fruit are fantastic.

We have decided to spend the day touring some of the lagoon islands. In particular, we want to see Murano, home of Venetian glass making and apparently the place where Violet's automobile was made. The hotel will deliver you to Murano by water taxi for free, undoubtedly a deal with the glass company. Since water taxis are quite expensive and we wanted to go to Murano anyway, it's a no–brainer.

Our taxi arrives and whisks the two of use through neighbouring canals, down a portion of the Grand Canal, then through another canal to the lagoon, where the driver can let his engines roar. Venice is actually nothing more than a group of low islands that have been joined together by the hand of man. Many other islands, large and small, dot the lagoon. Murano is just north of Venice, perhaps 10 minutes across the open water. It is renowned for its glass making, the secrets of which have been handed down for centuries. Glass making was moved to Murano way back in 1291 out of a fear of fire breaking out in Venice proper.

We are the first to arrive at the glass factory but are soon joined by tourists from other hotels and tours. Today the master and his assistant are making tiramisu bowls for a local restaurant. Back and forth into the oven goes the blob of melting glass as it is gradually shaped by lung power and various tools into a bowl with a wide edge. Meanwhile, a handler explains what is going on and describes the master/assistant relationship. The assistant serves the master until the master retires or dies, at which point he becomes the new master. But the truth is that the art is dying out, because young people are no longer interested in this life. In just another generation or so, according to our host, the painstaking creation of glass objects by hand in this time-honoured tradition will be no more.

After the demonstration, we tour the showrooms. At least a dozen different rooms, each filled with amazing creations in glass. There are both utilitarian artifacts (glasses, bowls, vases, etc.) and fanciful art for art's sake. Interestingly, sea creatures such as fish, lobsters,
Fanciful glass fishFanciful glass fishFanciful glass fish

Murano, Italy
octopus and squid are a common theme. We notice some pieces that are clearly by Chihuly. "Ah yes," our guide sniffs. "He came here to learn the art, but didn't learn anything. All his work is done by others."

Violet is interested in some champagne flutes, a set of six in the colours of Venice. As soon as she indicates an interest, we are attended to by a nice young man, improbably named Elvis. As we slowly negotiate a price, we chat about all manner of things. One interesting tidbit is that Elvis' home is on the ground floor of a building, and twice a day he has to put all the furniture on blocks because high tide means water coming in. He agrees that the combination of Venice's sinking foundations and the world's rising seas is not an auspicious one for the future of the city.

And yes, we do come to terms, and for a small fortune, a beautiful set of champagne flutes will be making their way to Ottawa after being custom-made by the master.

We have decided to carry on to another island named Burano. To get there, we first take a water
Canal in MuranoCanal in MuranoCanal in Murano

Murano, Italy
taxi paid for by the glass company to the water bus station Faro on Murano. We decide to explore this area of Murano before proceeding to Burano. We browse our way through the many shops on the way to one of Murano's canals. It's very picturesque, of course. We peak into various churches for a chance to sit quietly and collect our strength. Outside one of them is a huge fantastical glass creation in shades of blue that one is tempted to term Chihuly-esque.

We make our way back to the Faro water bus station. We just miss one departure of #12, which circumnavigates the lagoon, and the line-up is long, so we decide to quaff some wine in a nearby café while waiting. After scrutinizing the prices for transport, we opt for all-inclusive 2-day passes, since that will allow us to use the system tomorrow as well.

Burano is further north in the lagoon. As the water bus plods along its appointed route, we examine the islands of various sizes that dot the lagoon. Some are no more than a bit of land barely above water, while others are completely built up, in the sense that the island is nothing but building. Some are deserted, including a large prison island that is now completely shut up, and another where the moss and overgrown vegetation testify that Mother Nature is busy reclaiming the building.

Finally we reach Burano. It is likely the most ridiculously picturesque spot I have ever seen. Its beautiful winding canals and brightly coloured buildings seem impossibly attractive, as though Disney himself had set out to create Venice.

Burano's specialty is lace and embroidery and these are well in evidence in the shops, along with Murano glass. We proceed inland to the main canal. Most of the buildings are painted bright colours, a bit like in the Maritimes. These colours reflect in the water of the canal, making a true feast for the eyes. I shoot picture after picture.

We keep an eye out for a restaurant that Elvis recommended to us. By the time we get there, about 3 pm already, they have mostly stopped serving lunch. The waiter tells us our only choice is fried food, so we select a mixed seafood platter. It's really good, with deep-fried squid, shrimp, prawns, calamari rings, and fish. To finish, we order a
Riding the water busRiding the water busRiding the water bus

North lagoon, Venice, Italy
drink/dessert called sgroppino. I'm not allowed to tell you what's in it because Violet wants to reverse-engineer the recipe, but suffice it to say that it contains ice cream and booze. A lovely treat on a hot day.

We proceed along the banks of the main canal to the one end of the island, where there is a traditional campo with church and tower. The tower is actually noticeably leaning one way, probably imitating its cousin in Florence.

We retrace our steps and proceed to the opposite end of the island, where we can cross a wooden the bridge to small Mazzorbo, reputedly the island of cats. But there is not a cat to be seen. This island is apparently also famous for its archichokes and soft-shelled crab. We walk about a ways, but mostly see vinyards.

We're getting fairly tired with all this walking. So we return to the water bus stop and board the #12 back to Murano and then on to the main island of Venice, a trip of about 30 minutes. As we near Venice's Fondamenta Nuove station, we pass another one-building island named San Michele that was at one time the city's
Canal in BuranoCanal in BuranoCanal in Burano

Burano, Italy
cemetery. Napoleon had decreed during the time of the plague that all dead were to be buried there.

From there we take the #4.2 water bus back to Piazzalle Roma. A word about the water buses. They are very crowded, at least at this time of day. There are both one and two-level boats. The seats quickly disappear, so most of the people are standing. Even the stairs are jam-packed. There is a curious lack of things to hold onto, no straps as in typical buses, and people lurch widely from side to side with the motion of the boat. The tall among us practise the five-finger crab grip on the smooth ceiling but the shorter just lurch. As well, some people have strollers and luggage, and some are carrying their groceries and parcels. Some also bring their dogs on board. I find it slightly strange as well that there are no maps of the route inside, and no announcements of the stops. Thus you have to know where you're getting off and do your best to catch a glimpse of the station name as you arrive. Because of the crowd, you have to start moving towards the exit long before you arrive at your desired station or you won't make the door in time. The other interesting thing is that, unlike public transport in Ottawa, where passengers typically sit silently in their own little world, in Venice buses there is a loud hub-bub of constant conversation. Italians love to talk, says the stereotype, and it is true.

After disembarking at Piazalle Roma, we pop into a grocery store to pick up some big bottles of water. I have a bit of trouble getting my bearings but eventually find the way to the hotel. Now dog-tired and hungry, we decide to return to the same restaurant we had enjoyed last night. This time it's pizza and vino rosso. Just what we need to revive our spirits.

We strike up a conversation with a lady at an adjoining table. Julie is from Melbourne, Australia. A seasoned solo traveller and hiker (she just completed the Camino in Spain and Portugal), she has some interesting tales to tell. She has just arrived in Venice, and we feel so experienced to be able to give her tips on getting around the city.

Another long and busy day. We are feeling somewhat proud of ourselves for our new-found mastery of travel in Venice.

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