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Venice (ah, Venice).
The drive from Lucignano to Venice went without much drama. Kilometre after kilometer of the 350k's passed quite smoothly at Captain Kerrys cruising altitude of 150kph. That was until the last 18k's.
“Turn around when possible so that your vehicle is facing the opposite direction to which you are facing... now”, John Cleese. TOMTOM.
You'd think you could never hear enough of Johns witty and incisive comments as you while away the hours with such classics as ”in 800 metres, well what we used to call it half a mile but now we have to say 800 metres because of that litle bastard Napoleon, keep left” or Kerry's favourite “in 200 metres bear right, beaver left” she never did catch sight of that beaver.
For the last 18km of the journey John was our constant companion. It became quickly apparent to us that the “latest” Italy Tom Tom maps where in fact a direct transcription of the original stone tablets carried down the mountain by Moses or something of equivalent accuracy when used to navigate the streets of Venice. We passed a sign “Aeroporto” and promptly ignored it in favour of our Johns entertaining
repartee'. After all, the green arrow is everything when you're a tom tom devotee so we followed it like lambs to the slaughter straight on to a newly opened, no exits, pay as go tollway (did I mention its also the airport bye pass!). So after several choice words between Kerry and I, Kerry and John, John and I, John was sadly relegated to the glove box and we took the age old adage of “when in Rome do as the Romans do” and twisted it into what Aussies do best, cursed three generations of the highway architects family and drove on for about 20km before locating shot number two at a sign stating “Aeroporto”. Ten minutes later after passing the original “Aeroporto” sign (I shouldn't mention it was 2.5 km from that sign to the departures carpark), we had arrived.
Mission accomplished!
Kerry was first out of the car having gently tossed (Ha !) the keys at me (to me,you pick?) launching into a sentence that began with the words “Italy” and “driving” and deteriorated at speed from there into a sermon compiled entirely out of swear words and ending with “never again”!
From here it
was plane sailing. Thanks to a sterling piece of advice from a friendly airport employee, a 30minute bus ride, 25min ferry trip to Rialto where olive oil is supplied with your ticket in order to cram more people on board and a 20minute walk (even though we were only 2 minutes from the Rialto ferry stop!) we arrived at Ca Foscolo. Two parents three daughters, eight pieces of luggage (yes we had now bought a suitcase to carry our “memories”) and a partridge in a pair tree! BUT we were in Venice! Yep, we had made it! Forget gold, silver & platinum it was time for the ANZ “asbestos” credit card to make its debut.
Oh yes, there will be shopping!
Even though it was now 5.30pm and we were all shattered and slightly bruised from the hordes of people elbowing us in the narrow (but beautiful) streets of Venice, the girls lugged their bags up 78 steps to the apartment, tossed them inside and headed back down to the street below with purses in hand!
Sadly we only had 3 nights in Venice so we were determined to fit in as much as possible. Our apartment
exceeded our expectations (apart from the steps) and was located right next to Cassanova's family home!
Day 2 - Murano and Burano, parent escape for coffee and desert by the Grand Canal
After a few twists and turns through the back alleys today we boarded the vaparetto for Murano. Best known for its hand blown glass, a pair of Murano clowns can fetch upward of $500euro. We followed directions given to us by Patrizzia our Ca Foscolo host and were soon watching a private glass blowing demonstration. The girls were blow away (pardon the pun) as the artisan produced a molten hot vase, horse and elephant in quick sucession. It was nice for them to see where things come from instead of just Big W or Myer.
You're under no obligation to buy which is a good thing as the goblets Kerry was directed to were 50euro a piece. Set of six of course. The items reflect the work involved and I certainly don't mean any disrespect to their craft. They are selected as boys at age ten and train for twelve years before they are considered to have finished the apprenticeship. If successful it is a
highly sought after honour and a job that is held for life or retirement often in the early eighties. When both furnaces are working the temperature in the room can reach 40' and stay there all day.
The girls chose suitably priced tourist items and were praised for keeping the hands in pockets policy intact. Kerry was applauded for wrenching herself away from the every present sales assistant and her various pitches. Also for not being lured in “the artisans gallery” where items start at $1,000euro.
Another 10 minute boat ride saw us stepping off in Burano. Burano is to lace what Murano is to glass. However, its not the contents of the shops that captivates you. It's the colours. Burano is a sea of aqua, magenta, lemon, orange and pink. Row after of quaint cottages are painted in full day glow colours. Imagine you've loaded your digital photos onto your pc. Now slide the colour saturation button across to full. That's Burano.
Yet, Burano is a pallette of contrast. The few locals we saw were laid back and happy, the kids played breifly in the park and seemed unfazed by “outsiders” or the swarms of tourists
Sisterly love!
Venice seemed to work it's magic even on these two!filing steadily through the lanes. Its the type of place that still leaves you asking if it was real long after the boat back to Venice departs. A small, quirky, oddly beautiful place that's well worth the visit.
PS: No, Kerry didn't buy any lace. Somehow not even the artists of Burano or its charm could get my petal to by doilies.
We ended the day by putting Jess in charge once the girls where asleep. It was 10pm but you'd have thought it was seven. The restaurants and bars where packed along the Grand Canal and the Rialto Bridge was lit up as only it can be. We had cake and a coffee and watched the world go by. It is and will always be one of my fondest memories of this trip though there are so, so many.
Day 3 - St Marks Square, Doges Palace, Tower, Gondola
Up and out early as we promised we would be and into St Marks Square by 7.30am before the tourists. Note we had been in Venice only twenty four hours and already considered ourselves locals. It was well worth the effort. The square is empty
but for the street sweepers and hawkers setting up stalls for the day. They trawl St Marks Square all day like the fishermen in the bay of Venice. Hopeful of a tourist or too or the big catch if a cruise ship comes in.
Doges Palace (the Duke) was our first stop after breakfast (we were actually first in line). The Palace itself is majestic and gives insight into the wealth of history that Venice contains. However, it was the prison and the conditions faced by the inmates that shocked the girls. This is the prison from which Cassanova was the only one to escape. Local legend has it that he walked straight out the front door and stopped for a coffee on the way. We can understand why.
After lunch in the park adjoining St Marks square we strolled through alley after alley of shops and cafe's toward our Gondola pick up point. A lot has been said about Gondolas but we had the system beat. If your a couple, a hundred euro for the ultimate ride (4km loop) seems a bit much, but with five of us it averaged out at 20euro each and was pretty
good value. It's a different view of Venice and one we are glad we got to see. Yes, you see all the big sites but now and then you slip through a back alley and see the real Venice.
Getting up early was more than worth the effort. The statues seem more alive in the early morning light and the pigeons were hungry. The square and the bay of Venice is a sight you'll never forget at any time but especially early morning. There will be moments in life when you wish you hadn't seen it. For us I expect that moment will come every time we think of a holiday and find ourselves with tear filled eyes putting back the brochures for Fiji and Hawaii and reaching for Venice Italy once again.
Ciao for now.
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Mum
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Venice
Hi Guys, As I am writing this you will be getting up on your last day in Europe. Looks like you are all shopped out Tim but the memories you bring back will last far longer than any souvenir. Kerry will be "scrapping" up a storm with this lot of photos. Can't wait to see all of them as only some were coming up on the blog. Luv Mum, Granma, Pam