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Published: October 21st 2011
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Note: All the events discussed in this entry occurred back on March 2, 2007. For more updated trips and entries, please refer back to this site at a later date. An updated entry or trip will NOT include a note like this. Thanks and enjoy!
Ever since I was a little girl, I remembered hearing my mother and maternal grandmother talk about Venetian glass. They always said it was very famous because the glass made there was among the best in the world. My interest in blown glass peaked even more once I was introduced to the works of Dale Chihuly as a teenager. I admired the bright colors he used and the flowing curved shapes he would produce. His work, in addition to my family's own curiosity in Venetian glass inspired me to want to learn more about this art form. I found my chance while visiting Venice, through my hostel's recommendation to visit the island of Murano. In order to get there, I had to take two water buses; one to the main station and the second one would head straight to Murano.
The ride was long, about an hour, however I'll never forget this experience. I
had been on a boat many times before this, however never on a huge ferry-shaped one that stopped every 5-10 minutes or dropping off and receiving new passengers. In order to do this, the water bus would pull up to its designated dock, put a looped rope to keep the boat in place in order to allow passengers on and/or off. As the bus passed along the Grand Canal to the main stop, we passed by motor boats with locals who were carting their groceries back to their homes. Once I made my connection, my water bus traveled past the Piazza di San Marco and into open Aegean.
As soon as I got off water bus, myself and several others were herded by an individual who said "free Murano glass demonstration this way please!"
I followed along because I was not sure of how else to tour the island at first. We follow this gentleman to the workshop, where sitting, waiting or us, is a Master glass blower. After myself and everyone else who had come along were shown to the bleachers at the back of the room, the demonstration began:
"Good afternoon everyone and welcome to Murano.
Glass has been made one the island for almost 500 years. The Murano tradition of making glass is passed down from family to family. Each family has their own traditions, however there are some consistent features. First, the only one who is allowed to make glass is an individual called a Master, who studies under a family member for 10 years or so. A Master is not allowed to leave Murano and take his craft outside the island, once he becomes a Master he is committed to the tradition. Our Master will now give you a demonstration. First, he will make a horse, and then after a vase."
The Master got to work making the horse and vase. There was no color, but that didn't matter. The purpose of this demonstration was just to give us the basics behind Murano style glass making. After the demonstration, I took a tour in the family store. I didn't buy anything, especially since I had already purchased three vases yesterday from a vendor at the Rialto bridge. However I enjoyed looking around. I then leave the store and explore more the island. I find a major pedestrian street that is lined with
family owned stores selling Murano glass. I was able to see what the speaker meant that each family had their own traditions, because I did see unique designs and color palates not seen anywhere else, not even in the glass shops in Venice for that matter. After walking around a bit, I decide to grab lunch at a local restaurant, which promises to serve Murano classics. I order this gorgeous pasta dish with taglietelle in a fresh tomato sauce with shrimp and eggplant! The portion was rather big so I did not have enough room for dessert. Nonetheless, my sauce was sweet, creamy and tangy, complimented by the sweet shrimp and tender eggplant.
After lunch, I decide to look at a few more stores and then head back to Venice. On my way back to the hostel, I do remember going into a deli and purchasing some proscutto di san daniele and a type of soft cheese I had never seen before. I finally arrive back at the hostel, and while I'm eating dinner, my acquaintance from Minnesota showed up (For more information on her, please refer to my blog entries entitled "The Piazza di San Marco at Night,"
and "Venice's Jewish Ghetto.") She invites me to join her to see a music concert where Antonio vivaldi's Four Seasons was going to be performed. I could not pass up the opportunity so after eating I got ready to join her. Before the show, she and I take in an aperitivo. She orders a bellini and I a pint of beer. We then head towards the venue, which is an old church from the 18th century I think.
The tickets were cheap, like 8 euros per person, however I was not impressed with the performance. The musicians played to fast which lead to very obvious intonation and uneven rhythmic performance, which for me ruined it, however the church had lovely acoustics. We head back to the hostel, to see that two new people had arrived, however they were now getting ready for sleep. She and I were about to do the same.
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