Trapped in Tourism

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Today we headed toward Assisi, via bus. We played mafia the whole way. In essence people are secretly assigned a character one or two people act as "mafia" and kill off the villagers. The villagers then vote out who they think is mafia. In the end if more mafia remain then villagers the mafia wins. Kind of ironic that we consistantly played Mafia in Italy. I love that game, we can yell and fight and it is funny; which, is all I have ever wanted.

Assisi is a town on a hill and it is gorgeous, but something feels strange. We walked to a couple of churches, the house of Saint Francis, and a citadel way above the town with a gorgeous panoramic view. It reminds me of Toledo, Spain but artificial. It is so picturesque and stereotypical of a little Italian town. It feels more like I am at Universal Studios or something constructed for a movie set. As if I could walk around the corner at any minute and see backstage where 2 by 4s are holding up the cardboard cutouts of the city. It doesn’t feel like any people actually live here.

St. Francis’ tomb was incredible. There was a presence there and I could feel him, or God, or something. Maybe it was all the people gathering to see this one man, maybe it was the atmosphere, but I feel like it was more than that.

The group, surprisingly, is doing better about trying Italian, especially Tyler and even little Mo! All the while I am getting more and more comfortable and feeling a little more at home in the language.

We decided to trek out of the city to a cemetery. It was very cool, whole families buried together, beautiful plots with marble box gardens and next to every name was a picture. It was a nice touch and a great way to remember someone.

Dinner was fantastic. We sat with Danilo, my favorite Italian, and the bus driver. As I tried my best to learn and stumble through speaking Italian the bus driver just laughed at my attempts. Danilo is hilarious, speaking in an American accent, stealing Tyler’s camera and just being Danilo. Ricotta and spinach ravioli, a meat and cheese tray, then pork and potatoes and finally, my favorite, tiramisu. Also, and perhaps most important, a delicious wine from the area shared with Mo. Then wine bar for a beer and mafia outside the hotel. Overall good day.

Even after an amazing dinner and night with friends the city still doesn’t feel real, it seems to be just a big tourist attraction.

The following is a post trip reflection:

In retrospect I am surprised seeing the cemetery didn't make the city seem any more real to me. There were graves and photographs of so many of the people who had lived their lives in Assisi but somehow the tourist area had taken over and the space that I am sure they once occupied seems artificial. In my mind their Assisi is disconnected with the Assisi that I am experiencing. That is the curse of being a traveller or visitor in some instances I suppose. There are times and cities where no matter what you do or where you venture out to you can't escape the seemingly tourist pandering exploits.

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Photos

The REAL people of Assisi
This is a snapshot of the graveyard we wandered to. Very gorgeous and different than any other I have been to. Honoring the real people of Assisi.

Assisi
The quintessential Italian hillside town.