maryand1suitcase.italy

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We arrived by train in Pisa Monday about noon and decided to skip the tower and go straight to Lucca. Lucca is walled city in northern Tuscany. There are actually 3 walls, the original Roman, surrounded by the medieval and finally the Renaissance wall. My mental picture of the city walls was very different from reality. They are quite broad, with walking and biking paths and large trees growing on top the wall; Pat and Jim road bicycles around the top of the wall before our arrival. We are staying in an apartment in an old building inside the walls of the old city that has been rehabbed with all the modern amenities. Only local residents and taxies are allowed to drive inside the walls. A good thing, since the narrow streets were not designed with modern cars in mind. We decided to cook our first night in Lucca and Pat and I had great fun at the local cheese, vegetable and pasta shops finding the ingredients for our feast.

The Marina di Torre del Lago Puccini beach called to us the next day. We enjoyed the warm Mediterranean waters, sand and sunny day with the locals. We of course were the fully dressed folks; the locals were more appropriately dressed (of less than dressed in some cases) for the beach). I took the required picture of my feet (and of course Pat’s feet) in the Mediterranean sand. We had a fabulous dinner that evening at a local restaurant that Jim and Pat had stumbled on the night before. The weather is perfect and all the restaurants set up table is the streets or squares outside their establishments, so we dined under the Tuscan stars.

Wednesday we drove from Lucca to Sienna, a 2 hour trip on the Autostrada, but a much longer and more interesting trip on the back roads. On a whim we drove up to a hilltop town we could see in the distance, Peccioli, and had another amazing Tuscan meal in tables set up in the town piazza next to the church. Toward the end of lunch a large group arrived and we offered one of our tables to the owner, since we were just finishing our cappuccinos. In return, he brought us a large carafe of Lemoncello, a lemony liquor that all but the designated driver, Jim, got to enjoy. We continued to meandered down the back roads planning to stop at San Gimignano, which was full of too many tourist and cars. (Yes, I am aware the I am a tourist in a car too.) So a quick drive by with Mary taking photos from the car and off to Sienna we went.

My sister Pat is a master at finding great places away from the hustle and bustle. So we stayed at a lovely hotel outside the walls of the old city but with a fabulous view of Sienna, yet close enough to hear the doumo’s bells ringing as we arrived. The grounds were filled with pomegranate trees and to my delight birds! I got to see 2 new species. An Erithacus rubecula (a bird the British call a robin and the Germans a red throat and I call fabulous) and a Baumpieper (not sure of the english common name and my bird book is in german).

We entered Sienna by cab (another city you do not want to drive in) as the sun was setting and wandered about the large sloping central Piazza del Campo which was built in the late 1200’s by the ruling council. It is still the site of 700 year old 3 lap horse race around the plaza every summer. The Palazzo Pubblico or town hall anchors the piazza and is quite lovely when lit at night. Dinner that night was an experience, although not a great culinary one. Both our travel guides recommeded a small tratoria off the piazza, we however, would recommed avoiding Tratoria la Torre unless you enjoy leathery meat, bad wine and no service.

Pat and I returned the next morning to attempt to see the doumo, or cathedral. The lines, however, where too long for our limited time and there were many other doumos on our tour, so we shopped. A local pottery shop caught our eye and we were able to purchase several pieces from the artist herself. Then we were off with on our return trip to Lucca.

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Photos

Mary and Pat's feet
On the Mediteranean

M and P
aka Thelma and Louise

Pat
On the Mediteranean

Mary and Gary,
Lunch at Gigi's in Lucca

Pat and Jim
On the

M and P
Dinner in Lucca under the Tuscan stars.

Tuscanny
Near San Gimigmano