Motorhome News from Europe 16

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Motorhome News from Europe 16.

France/Italy February 2005
St Tropez - St Maxime Frejus - Corniche d'Esterelle - Cannes - Nice - Monaco - MonteCarlo - Menton - Tuscany - Lucca - Pisa - Florence - Siena - Salerno

‘Au revoir,’ France, ‘Buon giorno,’ Italia!


The chill of winter was still biting at our bones and we were heading east towards the Italian border along the south of France, hoping, within a matter of a week or two, to reach the warmer climes of Sicily, right down off the toe of Italy. A brief chance then, to ogle briefly at the sights of the Riviera, St Tropez, Ste Maxime Frejus, the Corniche d’Esterelle its red rocks and turquoise sea glowing in the sunshine, and Cannes - incredibly chic against the mountain backdrop, drifting by their sandy beaches, expensive restaurants, yacht laden marinas and designer label shops at the height of ‘sale’ time, out of season. En route, we found a motorhome dealer to buy toilet chemicals, replacement window catches and door locks for those damaged in the ‘break in’ in Girona. This week has been extremely cold but sunny as we passed through Nice, smart roller-bladers and police on the promenade, soon to be swallowed up by the tunnels and nightmare switchbacks of immaculate Monaco where Macdonalds and Carefour hide behind subdued green awnings and fond memories of Casinos, High Society, and Grace Kelly sit side-by-side.


Further east, we followed the coast via MonteCarlo to Menton where France meets Italy. The Menton campsite was unexpectedly full to overflowing. Unbeknown to us, it was local ‘citrus’ festival time! Aided by other motorhomers, juggling their vans back and forth, we squeezed into a narrow space beside a couple from Yorkshire, hoping to get out without too much difficulty the following morning. Whilst we didn’t stop for the parade the next day, the citrus sculptures we saw early that morning were quite amazing, mamoth displays of orange and yellow fruit - with that hint of lemon in the air. Enjoy the pictures!




The weather since entering Italy ago has not been kind. We have had a great deal of cloud, very low temperatures and, today, snow, taking the edge off any romantic notions one might have of this enchanting stretch of Italian highlights. This has been a week of medieval architecture and art in the delightful cities of Lucca, Pisa, Florence, Siena, and little places with enchanting names such as Barga, Fiesole, Casciano, St Antimo, Monte Amiata and Pitigliano. As you might deduce, we have been “doing” Tuscany. We have found it beautiful beyond words with its sensuous architecture and fine art in the towns and huge butterscotch-coloured villas guarded by sentries of cypresses perched atop rounded hills of early spring grass in the surrounding countryside Also it has proved surprisingly varied, with much oak and chestnut woodland, deep ravines and snow-capped mountains.


Thanks to Brian and Kathryn our well travelled friends from down-under, we have a book listing all the 'Sostas' or free-camp sites provided in many Italian towns. There are relatively few campgrounds open so we are taking advantage of the sostas from time to time. At both Lucca and Pitigliano we found car-parks assigned for motorhomes where we camped alongside several Italians. At both Florence and Siena we found campsites; the Florence site had classic views across the roof tops, domes and towers of the city, while Siena had marvellous views across the Tuscan hills and the best showers we’ve encountered in 136 days.



Florence was mostly remembered as being freezing. The cold outdoor temperatures were overshadowed when inside churches lined with marble; and we spent a lot of time inside churches - as one does in Italy. We both ended up with dry heels and chapped legs from the cold. Having visited Florence before, and ranking it amongst our favourite European cities, we were disappointed on this occasion that we were unable to appreciate the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries as both were closed. We even got up extra early to beat the queues, but for some reason best known to themselves they both decided to open at 10.30 instead of 8.15 and close at 4.00 instead of 6.30, so we gave up in disgust and did the Medici Chapels (more marble) instead.


We managed to get Smiley serviced before we moved on; another 10,000 miles behind us, but we then had another headache - the leisure battery packed up, which meant we were without lights and the water pump for two nights (thanks again to Brian and Kathryn for the halogen heater they’d given us, as not only did it keep us warm but it also gave us light). We drove around for miles trying to find first of all someone to check it over, then someone who could provide a replacement as it soon became clear that the battery had died. After much persistence, asking the way at garages where no-one spoke English, the third place had a suitable match. Yipee! Now we could leave Florence behind and head for Siena.



Siena has a fabulous cathedral, with many unique features. For a start, it looks a bit like a humbug, with black and white stripes of marble covering the outside. Then it has the most amazing inlaid marble floor. There are mosaics, statues, an immense unfinished “new” nave, vividly coloured frescoes and beautiful illuminated manuscripts. Being marble, of course it was cold; perhaps this and Florence contributed to David’s present delicate state of health - he has developed a nasty cold. We warmed up with a cappuccino (80c standing at the bar instead of 3.50euros sitting in the Piazza del Campo). The Italians do know how to make coffee. The huge fan-shaped Piazza del Campo in Siena is one of Italy’s most memorable Piazzas, surrounded as it is by wonderful buildings. We did play “hunt the Tourist Information Centre” here; it’s clearly not considered sporting to put a sign outside that anyone could actually spot.



Since Siena, we have spent a couple of days touring around the delights of Tuscany and “Chianti-shire”. We can see why Brits would want to holiday or buy here. It’s very nice - neat, tidy, pretty though a little expensive. As usual, we wouldn’t care to be here in the height of summer, but it’s probably rather pleasant in May or September.

So that just about rounds up our past week. Last night it poured with rain and as we headed for Rome we found ourselves driving through fog and snow. We changed plans as we drove and have settled for the night at Paestum, south of Salerno.



Janice and David
The Grey Haired Nomads

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Photos

Rivierra
there's real money here

Menton
across the bay from the beach

Menton
The Citrus Festival. Oranges and lemons!

Pisa
...what do they call this?

Pisa
into the Old Town

Lucca
..an evening on the tiles

Florence
.. close to the top of our list of beautiful cities

Florence
the magic of Florence

Siena
Piazzo del Campo