Advertisement
Published: July 25th 2011
The dreaming stage
Its was back at Christmas 2010 and I was stuck in Kuwait due to problems with visas. I was a bit feed up and so to give myself something to look forward to I began to plan a summer road trip to the Alps. My first thoughts were to take in some of the great passes through the Alps. This would take me into Italy, which i love and so my thoughts logically moved south and into north Tuscany and the Garfagnana, which I already knew and had fond memories of family holidays. But where to after Tuscany? Well Corsica is somewhere I always wanted to visit, and it has great roads and some amazing mountains, plus the famous and tough GR20 trail. The route home from Corsica naturally leads onto France, Provence and all points North to get back to the UK.
The trip.
It was around mid day on the 6th June that I departed the uk on my trusted R1100S Sport motor bike. Not too much gear and so the bike felt good and in no time I was boarding the ferry in Dover for the short hope across the channel to
France, just an hour away. I took the opportunity to fill up on food before making a concerted effort to put some miles between me and the ferry, champagne seemed like a good place to aim for that night. I rolled into a camp site near Reims just before dusk, having had a good run, albeit with some light rain. The second day was overcast and didn't promise much but I was glad to get on the road again, this time heading for the Alsace and then the Black Forest. It wasn't long before the rain started but despite this I pressed on. The roads through the Black Forest were amazing but the rain dulled my enthusiam and I just concentrated on staying on the road and putting as many miles behind me as possible. I was close to the Austrian boarder before i stopped for the night, wet and glad to take a rest and eat. Next morning was no better and for a moment I did think about staying were I was, but you just have to keep moving and hopefully you'll come out the other side of the rain. And so it was that I entered Austria
The Garfagnana
A great road between Modena and Luccain the rain, with low cloud and no view of the majestic mountains that I knew were there if only the clouds would lift. I went through St Anton and then took the road to St Moritz before turning off for Bormio, the Stelvio Pass and Italy. By now the rain had stopped and the clouds had lifted a little, but not a lot. As I began to rise up the pass the clouds continued to lift and miraculously they stayed above me and whilst the view was not that great and the road was wet, it was never the less an amazing ride. I pressed on since I was unsure how long the weather would favor me. There was a little more rain, just to keep me on my toes, but nothing too bad and I really began to enjoy the ride as I decended and headed south, the sun beginning to show itself for the first time since the ferry. Verona was my target that night and so it was that I camped on a farm just outside Verona. I was tired but very satisfied that I'd reached Italy on my third day.
I went into Verona
first thing in the morning and had breakfast in an amazing cafe, lots of glass and pastries. I took a walk around the city and saw the amphitheatre and some lovely buildings but it disappointed me somehow and so I didn't linger long. By 11.00 I was on the road to Modena. I avoided the autostrada and so passed through towns and villages along the way, enjoying the scent of the countryside. I was hoping to get to Lucca in Tuscany that night. The road to Modena was across the plain and so less interesting but things changed completely soon after Modena as I climbed up into the mountains that border the Garfagnana. I passed through forests and ski stations before beginning my decent towards Lucca. A shower brought the wonderful smell of the woods. I was now in familiar territory and memories of family holidays came flooding back. Happy days.
Lucca is a beautiful, a place you must visit. I found a convenient camp site close to the river and within walking distance of the walled old town. A few days to enjoy the atmoshere, food and wine, bliss. It was good to rest and take time to
explore and rediscover Lucca. On the 12th I rose early, broke camp and headed for the ferry port of Livorno. It is not far but I allowed plently of time since I was unfamiliar with the docks, which are huge. I needn't have worried, the signage was good and I enjoyed the ferry ride to Bastia, which took about 6 hours. I was meeting my old friend Nigel in Bastia, he'd flown down from the UK and we were planning to walk the first few stages of the GR20.
Nigel, reliable as ever, was waiting on the dockside and once we had managed to get Nigel and his huge bag on the bike we set off on the 80 mile ride to Calvi on the West coast. What great roads and fantastic scenary. We had a little mishap when we pulled up at a camp site and ended up rolling around on the ground with the bike on its side, no harm done though. We moved on to a better looking site, close to the beach and with great facilities, where we feasted on pizza, beer and a cheeky but huge glass of Calvados. Next morning we left the
tents and bike behind and took the bare essentials for the few days we would be on the GR20. It was a very expensive taxi ride the nearby hill village of Calazina, where the GR20 starts. We both felt good but apprehensive as we set forth, our aim to get to the refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu about 7 hours and and 1300m vertically climb away. Up and up we went, mostly walking but with some scrambling. Across grassy slopes, through pine woods and out into open mountains. Goats made it look easy but easy is wasn't. Birds of prey flew overhead and the scent in the air was intoxicating. What a great first day, we arrived at the refuge tired but inspired. The refuge is great, very simple but with friendly faces and good food.
When you read the guide books and it says the GR20 is hard you take it with a pinch of salt, but it really is hard. The second day was 60/40 walk/scramble and we reached over 2000m. The decent to the refuge proved very trying and seemed to take forever. We were glad to arrive and had already decided that we wouldn't do
GR20
What an amazing view at around 6400ft Satge 3 the next day, but walk out instead. Refuge Carrozzu was again simple and friendly but better for its difference. After bathing in a nearby river we sat on the large deck to take in the evening sun, which was very atmospheric with low cloud swirling around. Too much red wine for me but I wasn't going to let spoil a wonderful day. Nigel is such good company, thanks Nige for coming along, the journey was all the richer for your company.
The walk out was an experience in itself, a considerable distance down through the forests and out to the D251, where we were fortunate to get a lift with a party of Danish ladies on holiday. What a great experience, thoroughly recommended.
Chilled with Nige in Calvi until the weekend when Nigel had to fly home and I took the ferry to Nice. What great company, what a great island, what a great walk. Just go and see for yourself, you won't be disappointed. Sad to say goodbye to Corsica and Nigel. Until the next time.
Arrived Nice around lunch time but I just passed through and headed north up into the mountains of
GR20
A wonderful evening sky viewed from the second refuge. Provence. Great roads and it felt good to be back on the bike heading somewhere new. Provence lived up to its reputation and some, proving beautiful and bike friendly to.higher than I had imagined I rolled into a lovely town, Castellane, where there was a farmersmarket and sheep running through the streets. Plus a good selection of camping grounds. After a good nights sleep I took the road through the Gorge du Verdon and then headed for the Tarn gorge and Millau, to see the incrediable 300m high Millau viaduct. France is an amazing country. What a great days riding, take a look at the pictures at the foot of the page, just scroll down.
Took the minor roads and my time, and stoping a couple more times while travelling up through the Dordogne and then the Limosine, where an old mate, Simon and his wife Sue have recently set up a B and B for bikers. No big attractions but many great roads, good food and of course some lovely wine. Made it to Caen and the ferry to Portmouth in one hit from Simon's. It was good to see Portsmouth, HMS Victory, HMS Warrier and Gunwharf again.
Good old blighty. It was the 26th June, just three weeks after my departure. My trusty Beemer had done her job well but I feel there is some work to be done at some point to put her back in full fettle, although she runs fine.
Who knows where my dreams will take me next.
Bye for now.
Bob
Keep scrolling down for more pics.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.06s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 10; qc: 31; dbt: 0.0307s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
