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Europe » Italy » Tuscany » Florence
May 11th 2010
Published: June 8th 2017
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Geo: 43.7687, 11.2569

We left Venice by the same boat we came on. As it was only 8:30, all the business were still having their goods delivered (restaurants, hotels, markets, etc.) and, of course, they are delivered by boat. So there's all these boats bobbing around at the quayside offloading crates of stuff; some of the boats even have little cranes that swing the crates onto land. We even hit a bit
of a traffic jam, but it all seems to work itself out rather well.

The drive to Florence wasn't especially picturesque, so Reid gave several talks about Florence and the Renaissance. He obviously knows what he's talking about: he has a
Master's in history, and he's done these tours for so long. And occasionally he get pretty animated, so it's easy to stay interested. But his voice is in a register that, combined with the motion of the bus, can quite easily put you to sleep. I didn't completely fall asleep today, but I certainly spaced out several times.

We stopped for lunch (on our own euro) at an Autogrill about an hour outside of Florence. I think I've mentioned the fantastic European rest stops ... some of them have these Autogrills, which comprise a shop (with everything from snacks to Barbie dolls to sunglasses to stuffed animals that laugh when you walk by), a cappuccino stand, a sandwich bar, a pizza and salad bar,
and a cafeteria with hot dishes. I can't believe some developer hasn't brought the idea of full-service rest stops to the U.S. Some of them even span the highway. Even after having been to several, they're still novel.

We arrived in Florence ... and it was raining. I think the rain is following us. We walked several blocks to the Hotel Accademia (where I stayed in 2006) and Reid unknowingly put me in Room 11 (where I stayed in 2006!). It's the biggest room I've had so far, and I've got separate closets for shower and toilet. I haven't bothered opening my shutters, because I know I have a view
of an airshaft.

We had about two hours till the group met up again, so I went out to find an ATM. John and Karen were leaving the hotel at the same time to go find an Internet cafe, so Karen went with me to the ATM to watch my back. And then I met up with Judy and Ann, so we walked through the San Lorenzo street market and then decided to go to Santa Maria Novella. On the way there we
passed a shop selling electrical goods. Judy had blown out her hairdryer the other day when she forgot to turn it to 220, so we stopped in for her to buy another one. By the time we were ready to leave, the rain was absolutely torrential. Everyone was trying to shelter in doorways and under eaves. But we are tourists from Seattle, and we ventured forth. My jeans were almost instantly wet nearly up to the knees. At least the church was dry. Well, most of it was: two of the small chapels had leaks in their ceilings and were closed off. There were some lovely frescos by Ghirlandaio, and even a Botticelli over a door. And when we were done, the rain had stopped.

It was nearly 4:00, so we walked back to the hotel to meet the group. We all went to the Accademia to see Michelangelo's David. I remember vividly what it was like seeing him
for the first time in 2006, and I didn't think he would have the same impact this time. But he did. Coming around the corner from the lady who tears your ticket and looking down the hall to see David on a plinth under the dome is ... breathtaking. Personally, I think he's so awesome, so amazing, that I tear up a little. And I feel giddy at the same time. I think even someone who doesn't know anything at all about art knows when he is in the presence of something that is truly world-class. David is simply genius and beauty combined, and how can you not have a reaction to that? Reid says he barely actually looks at David anymore, but his joy comes from watching our initial reactions.

After another history lesson involving the doors at the Baptistery and Brunelleschi's dome, we all went to dinner. For starters we were given very small portions of three pastas, one of which was a gnocchi in a cheese sauce. I like gnocchi, but it's not something I would order in a restaurant. Tonight's gnocchi was pillowy and delicious, I would order it again in a heartbeat. This was followed by a sliced steak cooked in olive oil and salt and then smothered in arugula. For dessert they wheeled out a dessert cart. I had profiteroles in dark chocolate sauce. Oh. Dear.
God. I'm nearly drooling just thinking about them again.

It's 11:30 now and I'm quite sleepy. Joy of joys: we have a free morning tomorrow. Guess who's sleeping in!


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