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Published: August 8th 2008
Florence
An art overdose waiting to happen
Thursday morning marked the end of our Roman experience. We woke early, full of excitement, looking forward to the end of the day when we’d be up to our ears in art and beauty in the heart of Tuscany in Florence.
As usual, we did it the “Tim” way, chilled style. This meant that we had no idea when the next train, or if there were tickets available, or whether we’d reach Florence in time to make our reservation at the Uffizi. This was partly why we got up so early. Once we finally arrived at the Train station, it was immediately apparent that trains left for Florence very regularly, much to the relief of some. After having the typical “Amazing Race” couple bicker in front of the electronic ticket machine and being overwhelmed by the options offered, we gave up and stood in the queue for the teller. So we whipped out our guide book and started practicing what we’d say: “due bigletti par Firenze par favore, tanto econonomico!!”, who knows if that is what you are actually supposed to say because the lady greeted us in English and Italian was completely forgotten, much to Tina’s amusement.
So we ended up getting very cheap tickets and the train ride itself was very pleasant. Although we spent a lot of the time asleep in our chairs, we did notice the golden rolling hills and the hilltop villages looking out over the farms. Tina was very excited by the fields of sunflowers, even though their heads were drooped in the heat (we think they need their siestas too!).
After the mission to get to our accommodation in rome (plane, bus, train, bus, walk, trudge), we were very happy at how quick and easy it was to get to our pension in Florence, just a five-minute walk. Even better, we found it to be relatively close to the major attractions.
We quickly off loaded our gear and headed towards the Uffizi, popping in at a little cafeteria for a lunchtime sandwich and we immediately shocked at Florentine prices! The walk past the Duomo made up for it I suppose. When we got there, a gentleman was playing some crazy Spanish guitar - Asturias at high speed! Really fantastic to listen to, but we strolled on by straight into the queue for our tickets.
We might be complete philistines, but after 3 rooms full to bursting of Madonna and Child scenes we were desperate for some of the good stuff. Plus, our audio guide guy couldn’t say ‘R’ as in the awtist weally twied a wefweshing appwoach in the wondwous ray at the stawt of the wenaissance, so we didn’t mind skipping him a little. Our differing opinions of the art of the 13th and 14th centuries provided lots of material of a late night art “debate”. (There was some wailing and gnashing of teeth). Tim thought that it was actually quite cool to see 400 different scenes of Madonna and Child, each different and representing the evolution of art and artist techniques. (And they were even pretty). Tina thought they looked pretty similar to each other, and that the 13th century Madonna and Child triptychs were one step removed from caveman drawings. In her defense (she says) anything after La Pieta and the Sistine chapel looks like kids drawings. Tina’s interest was revitalized though when Caravaggio and co started experimenting with light and the paintings stop looking like “cartoons”. Tim was very happy to see the Doni Tondo (or whatever it is called - the round painting by Michaelangelo), with its original sculpted frame again. After we’d seen the big stuff, art overdose set in and snuck out. In hindsight, it is a bit disappointing that you can’t appreciate all the rooms, but really, after while it does all look the same and you just need somewhere to sit.
The evening was very pleasant, as we’d stumbled across a concert that was to be held in one of the massive cathedrals. So after supper on a terrace and a stroll on the Ponte Vecchio, we listened to a violin and piano duet surrounded by magnificent sculptures and divinely inspired beauty.
This morning we were due at the accademie where the statue of David is housed. Tina was pleasantly surprised that despite our art hangover from yesterday, this museum/art gallery was actually very enjoyable. Someone who knows about these things said that once you’ve seen David you don’t need to see any other sculpture; I think he’s right. We sat for a long while just staring at him, the statue that became a symbol of Florentine resistance in the face of Venetian oppression - little Florence against mighty (goliath) Venice. Also, the fluidity of his pose is a metaphor for the freedom of the city (or something…). What was also of great interest in the Accademie was an exhibition on music in the Medici and Lorraine ages (we never actually established who lorraine was, or what for that matter). Tim was enthralled by the models of the harpsichord and piano (I have always wondered how a piano made its sound, and it was interesting to see the mechanics of the process.)
The Duomo was our next stop, and though very impressive, we are still in the habit of comparing everything to St. Peter's so it looked quite austere. The outside, with the green and white marble is outstanding though. We also spent some time marvelling at the Baptistry doors, something Tim failed to see on his first trip to Florence despite their shiny golden brilliance. The rest of the day was spent wandering around Florence, trekking up the hill and hunting for a restaurant in the heat of the day. We'd read out a restaurant in the guide book that we were anxious to try, and found ourselves in the neighbourhood without directions. So we walked from one end of the street to the other before finding it. We were rewarded with a rather interesting meal, but some awesome wine to wash it down with (Frescobaldi Pomino 2007).
We rounded of the evening watching youtube clips of the olympic opening ceremony - it seems it was fantastic! Hope you all managed to see it. Our blog posts seem to be getting more and more current, we hope to keep that up. With any luck, we can convince facebook to play ball with our photos (something it hasn't been doing of late), so please check our facebook pages for images of our journey.
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William & Elsa
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WE can't believe it .... the magic never stops!! Tim I do believe you missed your vocation - you should have been a tour guide, hey!! I particularly enjoyed the guide who couldn't do an 'R!!!' Would love to hear you repeat that sentence in person! He-he!! You can stop visiting all the places WE've never been to , O.K? Looking forward to the next instalment. Love from the Monties