A Delightful Day on Lago d'Orta

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It is a slow start today. This is Italy, we’re in the Italian lake district, and we can be a bit slow. On the other hand the forecast is not brilliant. We have to plan for thunderstorms. The temperatures have been getting hotter and the humidity is rising. Something has to give. So we decide on a plan. Breakfast is provided downstairs in the bar, then drive to Orta San Giulio for a lake cruise, lunch, and back before the rain.

The drive to Orta doesn’t take very long. There is a ferry service but the timetable doesn’t account for the possibility of rain. On a day like this it pays to be independent. As we drive the short distance it is obvious the weekend revellers have gone. All is quiet. Once in Orta we find a convenient car park above the town. Parking in the historic town is at a premium. We buy ourselves a parking space and join other tourists heading the same way.

A group in front of us hold everyone up by insisting they have a group photo on the steps. To speed things up we offer to take their picture and move them on. They are from Australia and we express our sorrow for poor Jimmy. “Jimmy who?” Perhaps we are the only people walking on a cloud after the thrilling America’s Cup races last night. Just one more race. We stop and talk with another couple from Australia, this time the advice is about Lago Maggiore. Perhaps tomorrow.

Our walk takes us along a narrow roadway through a collection of boutique shops, tourist traps, cafes and hotels. The sides of the buildings show signs that inexperienced drivers have been here before. Wonder how many wing mirrors were left behind?

The main piazza is ringed with the usual array of buildings selling anything and everything a tourist with deep pockets and an empty suitcase would want. Cafes are busy and a “ship’s captain” approaches with instructions on how to get to the island, Isola San Giulio. This is one hawker we want to do business with. It seems nearly everyone who comes to Orta wants to take a boat trip out to the island.

The trip across the lake takes only a few minutes and we are soon standing below the monastery. Signs emphasise the need for quietness. This is an island for meditation and reflection. Along the pathway that leads up to the monastery and around the island are little signs with a sentence about the benefits of silence. Most people read and reflect. A group of young men are here for a different reason, perhaps they are workers having a break from a restoration project. Inside the church it is quiet, peaceful, and spoilt only by a tourist taking a prohibited photo. Why do people have to push the boundaries? Perhaps it is because they can. We leave with wonderful memories that no one can take from us. The walls are covered by wonderful frescoes. Tourists from long ago (1938) have scratched their name and date on some of these pieces of art. Why oh why.

As we leave a tour party arrives. Their guide is explaining the history of the island. We wonder if they will be left to view and reflect in peace, or get a running commentary throughout their visit. We will not know, we’ll be enjoying lunch in the piazza. After lunch we walk awhile. Large lakeside homes from a bygone era are being restored, others are now hotels or apartments. We have a feeling there is a change in the weather. Clouds are getting heavier. Time to return to the car and head back to the apartment in Pettenasco.

We have some supplies in for tonight. It is a big night, we don’t want to miss the action. Will this be the night Team NZ win the America’s Cup 7-1? As we settle down for our afternoon coffee the boom of thunder heralds the start of what will be a prolonged series of lightning, thunder and torrential downpours. We hope the benefits of all this rain finally flow through to the Po River irrigation scheme.

We are grateful to the journalist on the Stuff website who types out a running commentary of the America’s Cup races. Here in Italy TV coverage of the races is non-existent. On the website we read about every gybe and tack and when Team NZ crosses the line first there is a very quiet cheer and arms pump the air. Here in this little northern Italian town the America’s Cup win celebrations start. We can sleep easy tonight, unlike 2013 when the country went into mourning. Down in the bar they’ll say, “Jimmy who? Peter who? America’s Cup what?” Luna Rossa have issued the first challenge. Perhaps tomorrow the men in the bar will be talking up their chances of an Italian win in the next America’s Cup challenge.

Tomorrow we visit Lago Maggiore. Can’t wait.

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Photos

Orta
The narrow streets of Orta

Isola San Giulio
Looking towards the bell tower and church

Lago d'Orta
A view of the opposite shore, Pella, from the island.

Isola San Giulio
The island from the departing boat.

Orta
More narrow streets, spot the scratches.