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Published: September 9th 2017
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My last 2-week camp with ACLE was up in Domodossola. Most Italians had heard of this 18,000 person town in the north of the country’s Piedmont region because when they spell things, they say ‘D as in Domodossola’. It’s also notable for being the first major rail station across the border from Switzerland. Oh, and it has a sanctuary which is a popular pilgrimage site (Sacro Monte Calvario) for Catholics. For me, Domodossola represented my dreams of being back in the cool and beautiful mountains after two weeks in Cremona’s heat.
The town itself where the camp took place is actually in a valley, but it was slightly cooler than Cremona had been. I lucked out with my host family, because they stayed in an apartment in the mountains in the summer instead of in the town. And there, near the village of Santa Maria Maggiore (Piedmont), it really was peaceful and cool. I even had to break out my fleece and jeans a couple of times!
I didn’t end up with a lot of pictures from my time there; we didn’t do too many touristy things. We did go to Santa Maria Maggiore a
few times. It’s a cute little town with some tourists. The first time we visited, in the evening, we drove the short distance in my host dad’s 1960’s convertible Beetle with the roof open. Then, we strolled into the main plaza, and the quaint village was unexpectedly full of life, with locals walking along the pedestrianized streets, lots of people sitting in terrace cafes, and a little band with an accordion playing. Seriously, it was probably every American’s stereotype of the Europe of classic movies.
The town itself has retained a more traditional style, with stone streets and the occasional stone house. There are three things I remember it “being known for”. First, the first chimney sweeps ever began there. I never realized chimney sweeping started in one place, but okay. Now, every year there is an international chimney sweeping festival there. Second, apparently a person who invented eau de cologne was also from there (but started selling it in Cologne, Germany). Third, some of Marie Antoinette’s “treasure” is stored in a church or municipal building in town. So, somehow this cute little town has had some kind of influence on the world!
The
neighborhood where we stayed nearby was full of really old houses, all with interesting rock roofs. I have no idea how they build them, but they seem pretty heavy. Funnily enough, we were also across the road from a region known as Siberia for the amount of snow they get. It was written on the road sign and everything—it’s not like the locals just have that nickname for it.
There’s another village across the river set a bit up the hillside (maybe it’s in Siberia?). I didn’t end up walking up there at all, but they happened to have their saint day festival the same week as the Fourth of July. One evening at home, we suddenly heard fireworks, walked out to the exterior hall, and watched fireworks against the black mountain backdrop. Those fireworks were probably the most impressive ones I’ve seen, and I still don’t know how that tiny village had the money for them.
One weekend, my family took me to a party at their family friends’ house near Arona, which is next to Lake Maggiore (Lago Maggiore). The house was perched on a hillside with a 180 degree view of
the lake—really scenic. We took a short trip down to Arona to walk around. The town is perhaps slightly above average on looks, but its location next to the lake adds something. When we were there, the summer sales (saldi estivi) were starting. There tend to be periods in the summer and winter at least in Italy and Spain where lots of stuff goes on clearance. This is the time to stock up! Or if you’re a shopper, plan to travel then!
Domodossola itself is also pretty average, not ugly but only has really pretty buildings in a few areas. It’s set in the mountains, though, which I shook my head in awe at every morning. From our school, the views were stunning! The other tutors and I sometimes would hang out in town after camp, and it was full of little shops to check out and lots of potential gelato places (although one of our camp helpers recommended one that we kept returning to).
But all good things come to an end. It was time to go back to the US after 22 months in Europe. To start my voyage back, I took
a single-gauge (skinny) train from Santa Maria Maggiore to Domodossola. The train from SMM to Domo actually comes down from Locarno, Switzerland (it’s called the Centovalli or Locarno-Domodossola Railway). The part I rode was pretty, but I think the section further north is probably even better. Locarno is next to Lake Maggiore too, and near SMM, there are apparently 3 of Europe’s tallest mountains, so it’s guaranteed to be scenic.
I spent around 18 hours including an overnight in Milan before flying to Manchester. I wasn’t crazy about it, but then again, it was sizzling there, so I didn’t do much sightseeing. I did take advantage of the saldi to buy a new pair of sneakers since mine were falling apart, then I wandered the area near the Cathedral (Duomo) a bit.
In the morning, I walked around Brera, the hip, fashion-focused district, then went to Piazza Gae Aulenti, supposedly emblematic of Milan’s modern focus. It basically reminded me of downtown Pittsburgh. It just had a very American feel—skyscrapers surrounding a ‘community-oriented’ plaza with a fountain for kids to play in and shops and restaurants bordering. It had been recommended to me, but it
was nothing special, just kind of a strange copy of something you could find in other places in the world, as opposed to something with an Italian feel. I probably liked Brera the most of Milan, but even then, I didn’t love it.
The one reason I might return to Milan would be to go to the opera at La Scala, and maybe to go inside/on top of the Duomo. I’m sure there are cooler neighborhoods than I got to see, but generally it feels like a big city without much distinct going for it. There are lots of other cities (Turin, Como, Parma . . .) nearby that I would rather see before going back there.
From Milan, I took an airport bus to Bergamo airport (about an hour), then flew to Manchester. I stayed over at my friends’ house again, then flew into New York the next day. Overall, I felt ready to do something new in my life and leave Europe, but when I left Italy I got a bit teary-eyed. I had this feeling that I should’ve stayed in Italy a bit longer this summer—my time with ACLE, just a
month, had flown. A dopo, Italia!
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