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Published: October 31st 2015
Day 4
This was a long, wonderful day. We are in the province of Marche, pronounced Marka.
Leah, our guide was a local lady and very enthused about introducing Americans to The Marche and Abruzza.
Our first stop was Ascoli. On the way we saw The Marche on the right, Abruzza on the left, divided by the Tronto river. The right is populated from the valley to the ridges. On the left there are fields and olive groves and all the villages are on the top of the ridge. More about the differences later.
We arrived at Ascoli around 10:00am. We walk to the "Old Town" and stop a the first of two major squares. We visit the local cathedral where there is an Renaissance alter piece that is in tact. Most alter pieces have been cut up so it's wonderful to see one whole and in situ. This a beautiful little cathedral, beautifully decorated. When we leave the church, the village has awakened. Cars on the old town are few and bicycles many. We are time to admire the buildings, most of which are built with travertine and a light and bright. One of the things we
Ascoli
Upper central panelnotice are the towers.
In mid evil and Renaissance times the leading families of Ascoli had a bad case of tower envy. Once there were over two hundred and fifty towers but then the Vatican wanted to incorporate the area into the Papal States. Many of the towers were raised in order to remind the aristocrats who was in charge. About fifty remain today.
We stopped at the Cafe Moretti where anisette was first introduced. The cafe dates to the 1890's and is charming. We tasted three versions and of the three the consensus was that the traditional, original selection was best.
We had some time to prowl the square and I enjoyed watching the locals enjoying the day. Older couples strolled hand and hand, groups of young men gathered to talk (made me wonder where the young women were), puppies playing and men on bicycles crisscross the piazza.
People returned my smile and greeting. This is a real working Italian community and they don't get many groups of visitors. They seem pleased were are here and enjoying the sunshine.
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