Italy 72 The hard kernel of a nut and a rough diamond

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Because of the awful threat of thunderstorms next week in Croatia our plans have gone awry. We can't imagine driving 250 miles from where we are now in blazing sunshine to a rain drenched Cres and Mali Losinj. As we would only have been sitting around on a beach and perhaps taking in a boat trip or two the few days in the rain wouldnt have felt that good. And then there would be the 250 return trip back to Italy. So instead it was back to the drawing board - what to do over the next few days.

Luckily there are many many hillside towns in the Marche, Umbria and Tuscany where it is possible to while away a day or so. So today it was going to be Ascoli Piceno.

Never heard of it. Well neither had I but Glenn knew of it but had never been before. Whilst it was small at least it would pass away an hour or two looking aroundwhat could prove an interesting diversion.

The roads were bumpy and in need of repair as do many Italian roads. When we arrived on the ouskirts of Ascoli it reminded me of a nut. Most medieval towns are hidden within an industrial and modern exterior.On the face of it they look unpromising with ugly buildings and factories and modern housing. Like a nut you need to scrap away the kernel to get to the sweet interior.

Parking was easy, we found the sosta which was relatively empty. The little man in his hut came out and got on his bike. He drove towards us and gestured for us to follow him. Without a word he opened a gate , beckoned us in and we were greeted with a large empty area reserved just for motorhomes. 1 euro 30 an hour which we would pay on our way out. An excellent sosta where you could stay for just the day or for 24 hours. No electricity or water but with motorhoming you are generally self sufficient and the batteries power the fridge and lights for a couple of days.

The central historical part of the city is built in marble called locally as travertino. A grey-hued stone extracted from the surrounding mountains. Its central Renaissance square the Piazza del Popolo the Square of the People is considered one of the most beautiful in Italy. According to traditional accounts, Ascoli Piceno was home to more than two hundred towers in the Middle Ages: today some fifty can still be seen although we didnt see any of the 50. . OUr first stop was the obligatory espresso and capuccino and a piece of ricotta cheese and chocolate cake. Sitting in the square which was relatively empty we could see glimpses of pretty courtyard gardens.



The medieval centro storico was within walking distance and our first stop was the church. This was a lovely building hardly touched by time. None of the Baroque or Roccoco side chapels just a momumental blue sky on the dome covered with golden stars. Dark and gloomy just like a medieval church should look. The treasure was beneath the church. A Baroque chapel with crypt. A tantalysing glimpse through grills of the crypts which still retained their niches and alcoved full of stone Roman and Early Christian sarcophagi. Luckily we saw inside just before they closed it up for the day.

Across from the church is the medieval baptistry with font sunk into the floor. Plain inside it was totally different to its neighbour the church it was attached to.

There are roman remains in the town and arches and also a number of medieval buildings. Not as impressive as its bigger neighbours but nevertheless a pretty diversion. We sat for some time in the square waiting for our lunch. Now this is where we dont mind sitting around waiting but it seemed as if the waitresses had got up on the wrong side of the bed that morning. We ordered a bottle of water as we were parched at 12.08 and asked for a menu. Begrudgingly they threw a table cloth on the table, two serviettes and cutlery. We waited to order and waited for the water. Still not a problem as we sat for 15 minutes talking to our neighbours two elderly Dutch ladies who too were waiting for service. By 12.48 we finally ordered, a very nice when it came plate of local hams and cheeses. Not the best of service but the food was nice and it was a lovely place to sit in the shade watching the world go by.

A town which was as always the sweet heart of the nut once you had cracked it and a real rough diamond.

Leaving we were delighted to be moving from the Marche area of italy into typical Tuscan countryside with umberella pines, thin pencil like pines and olive trees. Gardens full of pomegranite trees and pumpkins growing in the fields. The black grapes hung like giant earings off the vines. What a lovely part of the world.

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