Italy for the Second Time

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Englewood, Florida, United States
Monday, November 3, 2014

ITALY

Venice drew us to Italy last year and we came home longing to see more. So, we sold our boat to finance the trip; by September 1, 2014, we were back!

Our friend, Laura, who was born in Livorno, had given us advice about using the airbnb site to book accommodations and we will be forever in her debt for that information. One is able to book an apartment or even a whole house for less than most hotel rooms! Bob booked one with a great host, Rafaella, in Busto Arsizio for seven nights. After landing in Munich, we arrived at our new home in record time (I slept most of the way). No speed limit so Bob just had to see if the Volvo would do 130 mph; he was proud to say it was no problem.

Although Rafaella's home is near a busy street, her property is separated from it by a wall and, once inside, it almost felt like we were out in the countryside. We were at home: comfortable, private, quiet. Our cottage is filled with her creations; there are decorative lamps, mirrors and vases throughout the space that make it all very personal. We made a trip to the local Iper, a mega grocery store where Bob was mesmerized by all the choices, came home to fall into bed and sleep until 1 PM Wednesday, September 3^rd!

We awoke to an Italian breakfast of prosciutto ham and eggs, toast and juice (Jeanine would have loved the Dualit toaster!). We organized our luggage and set out to find the train station. One more shopping stop for pop, potatoes, steak and a kilo of tasty Italian grapes, dinner and lots of rest for a big day in Milan tomorrow!

When you arrive by train in Milan, you are greeted by a very confusing metro with nary an agent to ask directions. We were lucky to meet Jose from Panama who was here studying for his doctorate; he kindly helped us locate the line that would transport us to Piazza del Duomo. Without him, we would likely still be wandering around looking for the way to go! However, the effort was worth ten times the trouble ! And, even though the interior of the Duomo is magnificent, the exterior, when seen from its terraces, is unique and not to be missed! Most churches boast a spire, but Milan’s Duomo has 135 and an amazing 3200 statues! It is fashioned out of pink Candoglia marble, begun in 1387, a never-ending project.

Our second day in Milan was easier now that we had figured out the metro. We had ridden on the Red Bus yesterday and taken advantage of the 2-day ticket to try a different route today. Our first stop was the Castello Sforzesco, the home of the Sforza dynasty which ruled Renaissance Milan . Leonardo da Vinci designed the castle’s defenses and there are seven separate museums, including Michaelangelo’s Rondanini Pieta. I loved the picture gallery and musical instruments while Bob was most interested in the Egyptian museum. After three hours, we were ready to ride the Red Bus for yet a third trip; this one took us to the outer city where we found the horse racing track and Italy’s largest football stadium. At 4 PM, we met our guide to gaze on La Cenacolo, Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, well worth the pricey ticket!

On Saturday, September 6, we decided to leave the big city behind and take a short trip to Pavia, which turned out to be a good choice. It was a big fair day with food everywhere and tons of other merchandise. We held ourselves back until we encountered a friendly couple selling honey; they were delighted to learn that we, too, were beekeepers so we left with a jar and a picture. Castello Visconteo, built from 1360-1365 as a private residence, houses the City Museums. We had it to ourselves and spent a couple of hours examining the great frescoes, a ton of architectural pieces, a wooden model of Pavia Cathedral, and paintings from the 13^th-19^th centuries. We feasted on Polish and Dutch food and took the long way home. On that drive, we encountered some "ladies of the afternoon" stationed at various intersections in the middle of nowhere. Bob was shocked, but I, the more informed, had read about them in Frances Mayes’ book, “Bella Tuscany.”

Bob and I knew we couldn’t leave Lombardy without seeing at least one of the lakes, so we decided on Lago Maggiore, the closest one, on Sunday . Along the way, we stopped at a small launch site and a kind gentleman told us about Italian parking: “White lines mean free parking, blue lines mean pay parking!” Nice to know, but it can be difficult to locate the place to pay. We viewed the villa and gardens on Isola Bella from the shore and felt like we were gawking at the mansions back home as we drove the winding road. It was all very beautiful and full of tourists! We stopped to browse at a flea market, bought a few trinkets and enjoyed the best gelato of the entire trip!

Varese was on our radar on Monday, just 20 miles away. Bob can tell you driving in Italy is a real experience; generally, it will take you longer to travel anywhere than you expect it to take. The ever-present motorcycles, motorbikes, Vespas, ATVs that pass cars on both the left and the right are dangerous to say the least. We passed a crash site yesterday and we hoped the driver was OK, but not likely judging from the skid marks that ended at a stone pillar. In Varese, we parked near a gorgeous park where we walked for several hours: fountain, waterfall, charming rustic bridge, landscaped hedges and flowers. We visited a mall, had coffee and a donut, bought supplies at Billa, tried to see the cathedral (closed), then caught lunch at Ristorante Pizzeria La Piedigrotta, better known as Super Pizza. Bob had the seafood linguine (squid, mussels, octopus, clams) and I chose the beef with pasta. Both were over-generous and delicioso! After a bit of a struggle with our bank cards, a very helpful bank clerk walked us a block away from her bank to use her ATM! Now we can forge ahead, just 16 days to go!

On Tuesday, September 9, we were on our way to Buti, a small mountain town close to Pisa with only 5,000 residents. The drive took four hours, 27 euros in tolls and 67 euros to fill up the Volvo. Michele and Melissa manage eight apartments in Buti and, after some initial confusion regarding the key and where to meet, we found our new home. It was located just off the town piazza, upstairs and downstairs and through three heavy doors. But the journey was worth it; the apartment was brand new, compact but very cozy and just what we needed. We explored the neighborhood; none of it was flat and that required walking up very steep hills, always for the view.

Pisa was on our agenda Wednesday in spite of the impending rain! Our next challenge was parking (we were beginning to wish we had rented a smaller car!). When we finally found a spot on the street, we were determined to see THE tower, along with what looked like half of Italy. The Piazza dei Miracoli encompasses the tower, the baptistry, the cemetery, the cathedral and the museums. It is all MARBLE and struck us as unreal; I guess it’s one of those places you hear about for your whole life and when you finally get to see it, you just can’t comprehend the reality. The baptistry is the largest in Italy, begun in 1152 and not finished until 1363. The cathedral, begun in 1064 and finished 200 years later, was the largest in Europe when it was built. When the elliptical dome was added in 1380, it was the first of its kind in Europe. Due to the lousy weather, we were unable to spend as much time as we wanted; this was definitely a place for a repeat visit.

Lucca was our destination on Thursday, September 11. With a population of 87,000, we focused only on the old walled city which dates from 180 B.C. when it became a Roman colony. But, before that, the Etruscans (1200-100 B.C.) inhabited it. The old city is surrounded by a 30-ft. high wall that is three miles long and dates from the 16^th-17^th centuries. It provides a wonderful promenade where residents walk, bicycle, picnic. We loved the myriad of alleyways, most very narrow, but filled with pedestrians and bicycles. We climbed the Guinigi Tower which has a garden with large trees growing out of the top; we were rewarded for our effort with a stunning panorama of the city. The Piazza Anfiteatro is a semi-circle of buildings which was once the location of a Roman amphitheatre. San Martino, the Duomo, justified a long visit for reflection and candle lighting to remember loved ones back home .

Sienna was our next stop on Friday, September 12 (Happy Birthday, Jeanine!). Parking proved to be a horrendous ordeal and we almost gave up but, happily, Bob found a spot. Rain was another obstacle but that was overcome with the purchase of a second umbrella! This ancient city reminded us of Lucca but, of course, it has the famed Campo, where the Palio is the site of a twice-yearly horse race. We toured the Museo Civico which holds a treasure trove of the city’s greatest frescoes, sculptures, porcelain, costumes, furniture. The Duomo was begun in 1215 and work continued until the 14^th century; the black and white striped exterior and interior show its Moorish influence. It was a tedious trip both ways but we were glad we didn’t miss this magical city!

On Saturday, September 13, we began our exploration of Firenze (Florence). A short train ride (after paying 8 euros to park at the station!) and we debarked at the Santa Maria Novella station, then walked to the Piazza del Duomo. The immensity of this complex: tower, cathedral, baptisty is quickly realized when you’re unable to capture even a fraction of it in your lens! The red-tiled dome of the cathedral took 150 years to build. The Duomo is one of Italy’s big three; Pisa’s tower and Rome’s Colosseum are the other two. Pink, white and green marble was used on all the buildings; the striped exterior of the baptistry was just as amazing as the church. We passed on the campanile; the line was long and 414 steps seemed a bit much for us at this point. Next we walked to the Ponte Vecchio, the bridge built in 1345 where medieval workshops for butchers and tanners were located. Today, jewelers and trinket stores line this bridge, the only one not destroyed by Hitler who, luckily, appreciated its beauty.

Sunday was a second Florence visit to see the Pitti Palace. After spending 42 euros, we held tickets for Museo degli Argenti (treasure museum), Museo delle Porcellane (porcelain), Galleria Costume (clothing), Giardino Bardini (garden), Galleria Palatina (palace and living quarters), and Galleria Arte Moderna (18^th-19^th century art). It was money well spent and required more than four hours; it even made up for not seeing the Uffizi (the renowned museum for which you need advance tickets) . We had a bit of a scare when we discovered that the return train we expected to take did NOT run on Sunday, but a trip on a different line paired us with a group of jolly Brits who also misjudged their stops. Happily, all of us got to our destinations safely!

It was time to rest on Monday, September 15. We slept late and visited the market in the square, just a few steps from our apartment. It was fun to shop for prunes (ever had a fresh one?), plums, grapes and postcards. All week we had noticed posters advertising the 10-day festival; we wanted to purchase one and were told to go to the church. A kind lady gave us a handful and she received a 10-euro donation for the church. The night was finished with packing for tomorrow’s departure when, to our immense surprise and delight, we heard stupendous explosions on our rooftop! The Festa del Santo Nome di Maria was concluded with a “spettacolo pirotecnico” and what a fitting send-off for us!

Genoa (Genova) was to be our next home away from home. Bob drove through endless mountains, tunnels and high bridges; we arrived at Rosa & Elisa’s big pink apartment building by 11:30. It always amazes me how Bob can drive right to our new location, not matter how far, what the terrain, or how complicated the locale. It’s never alien to him, just a challenge that he is always ready to tackle; how could I ever do all this terrific travel without him? After a grocery stop (we knew we were climbing to the FIFTH floor—100 steps—so we tried to do that climb as little as possible), we asked a hunky guy in a BMW to call our landlord. After Rosa and Elisa showed us everything about their well-equipped apartment, we unpacked and got acquainted with yet another great stop! The kitchen was the best so far; we could have stayed there forever but our legs would not hold out! There was even a washing machine and soon my clothesline looked like all the others with laundry blowing in the breeze from the balcony!

On Wednesday, September 17, we set out for Cinque Terre (literally 5 places, actually 5 clifftop towns on the northwest coast of Italy). I had read about them forever and was determined to visit at least one. We picked the closest, Monterosso, and were not disappointed. It is beautiful beyond words and Bob immediately said he wanted to spend more time on the next trip. The incredibly clear water and the steep mountain walk is gorgeous although far too physically taxing for us to go all the way to the next town, Vernazza. After much souvenir-buying, we walked through a tunnel on the way to the train station. At the end, there was a pianist and, when he broke into “Yesterday,” I was overcome with emotion. The beauty of the place and the music was something I wanted to capture and savor forever. If you want a romantic locale for a honeymoon, this place is it, hands down.

On Thursday, we headed for old city Genoa and its first stop, the Palazzo Reale. Its gilded hall of mirrors (I counted 30) is reminiscent of Versailles. It was owned by the Balbis and Durazzos, very wealthy families; I saw a Dior perfume commercial which placed Charlize Theron in it the other night. Next we stopped at the Acquario for a bit of a change of pace. It is the largest in Europe, 2700 meters of exposition: coral reefs, penguins, sharks, manatees, even a Madagascan rainforest! On the way back to the train station, we stopped in the most gorgeous church, Santissima Annunziata. There were more candles to light, prayers to offer, a plethora of photos asking to be taken.

By Friday, September 19, Bob and I were feeling fatigue and did not even leave the apartment until noon! We took a long walk to the harbor, gawked at the Costa Concordia (Italian cruise ship that sank off the coast two years ago) and then climbed the steep hill to the Museo di Archeoligia Ligure. It is housed in a palace high above Pegli (our suburb) with elaborate greenhouses and gardens. A very kind guide led us through 10 rooms with prehistoric artifacts, human and otherwise; it was quite a bargain at only 3 euros each!

Galata Museo del Mare beckoned to us Saturday, and it was absolutely the best maritime museum ever. The exhibits, from Christopher Columbus, a 17^th century galley ship, valuable old maps and globes, navigational implements to the finale, an immigrant experience, are absolutely stellar. Don’t miss this one if you ever travel to Genoa! The top floor has a terrace that is worth the climb to see the cityscape which almost looks like a painting or a movie set, just unbelievable. -drydock.jpg] We treated ourselves to a kilo of huge shrimp at a fish store on the way home.

On Sunday, September 21, we had planned to see the Natural History Museum, but soon found that the trains were on a very limited schedule. So, we opted for another walk along the waterfront to peruse the stalls of jewelry, food, toys, clothing, housewares, antiques, and plants. An afternoon nap was in order because we knew there would be another “spectacolo pirotecnico” at 11 PM! We wondered if this was in our honor, two departure eves, two fireworks displays!

By 9 AM Monday, the car was packed, apartment cleaned and we were out the door to Liechtenstein, a country of only 35,000 whose GDP is the highest in the world (making Liechtenstein the richest country in the world!). We know now how all the tunnels and roads are maintained: 50 euros of tolls to drive on Swiss roads and a 10 euro toll each way to touch a bit of Austria! Next year we will buy more expensive plane tickets, avoid those tolls and the extra gas and time to get to Italy, lesson learned. However, the drive was certainly picturesque and we arrived in Vaduz by 2 PM. Ursina’s home proved yet another pleasant choice. We soon discovered that clocks are not necessary as bells announce even the quarter hour!

A drive up to the Malbun ski area started our day on Tuesday, September 22. Bob couldn’t leave this area without yet another jar of honey (“after all, we don’t have any Swiss honey”). It was a heart-pounding, breathtaking ride as we followed many concrete trucks; when we stopped at Malbun, we realized what was being built here—yet more accommodations for skiers! Later we stopped to examine the stamp museum and Kunstmuseum (architecture), bought some VERY expensive souvenirs and witnessed 15 very well-behaved 9-yr.-olds at a McDonald’s birthday party.

On Wednesday, September 24, we left Liechtenstein and headed for Moissining, Germany in anticipation of our Friday flight from Munich. We were greeted warmly by Gertrude Frank at her pension, and got quite a smile from her when we exchanged jars of jelly as we had last year. We ate again at Leonardo’s, our favorite place for food in Erding, always delicious and reasonable with great service. There were still a few gifts to buy: a special tea for Erika who is watching our cats and more chocolate for Janet, her daughter. There was also a strange encounter in a grocery store with an elderly gentleman who approached Bob with a pecan in a shell. He spoke German (of which we understood none) and then produced yet a second nut (Bob understood he meant to crack them together). I couldn’t help but observe how much he reminded me of my father, John, about whom I had had a pleasant dream the previous night. Dad always made friends with complete strangers; I know he would have approved of our journeys, and he would have loved meeting all of our new friends! Ciao!

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