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Published: August 29th 2015
Saturday, 29 August is the day we walked to Praiano from San Lazzarò. We decided, as suggested by our detailed notes, to take the bus to the highest part of the walk so as to avoid dying on the way! From San Lazzarò it is possible to walk the so called Path of the Gods (Il Sentiero degli Dei). We were probably at an altitude of about 600 metres but because the gradients are so sheer, it felt dizzyingly high. I felt we could have almost reached out to touch God's finger as Adam does in the Sistine Chapel fresco.
As we began our descent, the smell of wild fennel was strong. Although it was only about 9am, the sun was already blisteringly hot. We very soon left civilisation behind and were surrounded by thick vegetation (oak and ash trees abounded). On this walk, which was longer than our previous two, we traversed heavily wooded, natural areas. Along the way I spotted wild fennel, chicory, small blue thistle like plants, wallflowers, broom and tiny wild pale pink cyclamens growing in the deepest, shadiest and dampest parts of two valleys we traversed. The sound of the cicadas was loud. While we have
been walking, to date, we have encountered only one couple on the path on the very first day. We are generally alone. Sometimes there are a few local people whom we meet however, usually it's just us and the hundreds of little lizards that scurry away into crevices every time they hear us coming. But as we were heading into the last bit of wild area before coming to Praiano, we passed two handsome locals leading their heavily ladened donkeys along the path. The donkeys were carrying big logs which had obviously been felled by the young men. Mark decided to photograph the donkeys only, much to my disappointment! O ur arrival at the next hotel we are to stay is always accompanied by my embarrassment at being extremely red faced, sweaty and smelly. I don't believe I have ever sweated so profusely in my whole life! The salt is oozing out of my pores at an alarming rate. These walks should obviously not be attempted in the height of summer! However, the relief and wonder felt at stepping under a cooling shower is always restorative; I then get a second wind and want to keep exploring after all! The
gin and tonic I am now consuming doesn't hurt either...The upside is my leg muscles are getting such a workout. Move over Betty Grable (kids, I'll explain the reference when I get home)...
After a quick panino for lunch, we braved the 400 or so steps down to the little free beach to swim again in this glorious Mediterranean Sea.
Tonight we will eat at the hotel Which is called Tramonto D'Oro, Golden Sunset.
Tomorrow we take on the last of the walks to Positano. We will once again avoid climbing back up. Weary trekkers must do what they can to survive to trek again.
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