Birthday Excursion

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Happy Birthday, Dave!

The day dawned wet and gray again, so we let the birthday boy sleep in--plus he's fighting a cold :-( Everyone at the pensione seemed to think it was bound to clear up today, so after another huge breakfast from Luigi (we actually had to ask for less food), we formulated a plan to visit one of the medieval watchtowers down the coast and stop in at one of the tiny beach towns, Conca di Marini, nearby. We were aided in our adventures by Angela, who once again helped us when we failed to catch the inconsistent and overfull buses in the rain, by driving us out of town far enough that we could walk the rest of the way.

Fortunately, the rain dissipated just about the time we got going, but our anxiety did not, as the low guard rails and periodic traffic whizzing by made for a real adventure. Still we enjoyed the walk, and really getting to see things, although it was a bit longer than we had expected. Finally, by the time the tower really was just around the next bend, and we located the steps off the road that led down to the coastline, then up, up, up to the tower itself, the sun was beating down on us. So it was a sweaty crew that arrived, hundreds of stairs later, at the tower, only to find it closed for the season, natch... But we enjoyed the breezes and views of the coastline afforded by being out on the point, before having to do it all in reverse!

Back on the road, we walked a little further to the "village" of Conca di Marini, which turned out to be just an assemblage of residences clinging to the cliffside, below the road and above a little beach. We headed down on the narrow street of stairs which threaded through the buildings until we reached the small stretch of beach, fronting a working fisherman's harbor, with a small outdoor restaurant/market, tiny chapel, and lots of fishing boats, and that's pretty much it! We could look across to the point on which famed Italian film director, Carlo Ponti, built a villa for his first wife--not for Sophia Loren, though we heard the erroneous version from locals several times--and to the general area where members of the Kennedy clan and other celebs have vacationed. But there on the beach the activity options were limited, so we bought a beer, toasted the birthday boy, then waded in the water for a bit, until the darkening skies urged us back up the stairs to the road in search of a bus stop to take us back towards Praiano.

We had success with the bus this time, largely because we shadowed an attractive young local woman who also appeared to be waiting for the bus, and for whom the bus predictably stopped. We squeezed on, just as the skies really let loose, so we curbed plans to stop at another beach area for lunch, and rode the bus all the way back to Praiano, where we were within a few minutes walking distance to our pensione. We ate bad pizza for lunch at one of the only restaurants open mid-afternoon in the town, then regrouped in our room.

Dave opted to relax for a couple of hours, but Sandy and I returned to Positano to take care of some shopping errands we were running out of time to complete. While there, we walked down the Via Positanesi d'America, a lovely coastal walkway funded by locals who had emigrated to America. It took us to Fornillo Beach, which is smaller and less touristy than the main Positano Beach (Spiaggia Grande). If we'd had time for any beach days, this would have been the place to go. The walk also afforded great views of the coast and the setting sun. We returned to town, hiked up to the bus waiting area and found a sea of confused tourists, all hoping for a spot on the next bus. We again attached ourselves to a friendly and attractive young Italian woman who was married to an Australian, and lived there most of the time. We enjoyed listening to her speak English with an Italian-Australian accent, and felt pretty smug when after a short wait, we followed her onto the right bus and got a seat!

Dinner at the pensione that night was a feast! We each ordered a pasta dish as our main course, but first Luigi presented us with three different appetizers on the house. We were stuffed by the time a pear and ricotta tart arrived, with "Auguri" (best wishes) written on it, to celebrate Dave's birthday, but of course we couldn't hurt Luigi's feelings by saying no...

Dave: GOOD THING--All the sweet birthday wishes from everyone here and at home. BAD THING--Bus going right by us as we waited at the stop this morning.

Sharon: GOOD THING--Getting our shopping errands done. BAD THING--Erratic buses preventing us from going where we want when we want.

Sandy: GOOD THING--Having a beer and dipping itchy feet into the Gulf of Salerno at the Conca di Marini beach. BAD THING--Bed bug scare--or are they just mosquito bites??

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Photos

Looking Back to Where We Started
Praiano can be seen on most distant point

...And Ahead to Where We're Going
Tower on point in distance

Hiking Up the Stairs
after hiking down the stairs from the road to the coast

Back Up to the Road
Sandy puts her rain umbrella to good use!

View of How the Other Half Lives
Villa built by Carlo Ponti

Tiny Beachside Chapel
Many of the fishing beaches in the area have a chapel for praying for a safe return.