Path of the Gods


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Europe » Italy » Campania » Positano
May 11th 2017
Published: June 22nd 2017
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Geo: 40.6299, 14.4863

Our walk today was taking us from Praiano over to Positano via the well known Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods), but clearly the Gods were not concerned with the local traffic. Just as we set out from the hotel we were entertained by the stand off between the local bus, the cars and a number of scooters - all trying to get through a very narrow street and no one prepared to give way to one another. Classic!

After the amusing traffic impasse was resolved we moved on and quickly reached the edge of Praiano and began the uphill climb to the abandoned monastery of San Domenico which lies on a high rocky promontory overlooking Vèttica Maggiore and Positano. Slow and steady was the only way to ascend the stepped path and fortunately it was still in the early morning shade. Finally we reached the monastery, which although abandoned, was still in reasonable condition with the remnants of some faded frescoes still visible.

Moving on after our short break, the rocky path traversed a truly vertiginous section of the walk. Yesterday's warning of steep drop-offs was nothing compared to what we faced today. Literally you are on an extremely uneven and narrow track with a sheer drop down the mountainside.

At times I felt I was emulating the leaning Tower of Pisa as I was bending so far away from the dangerous edge. I definitely had a few moments of terror but was able to focus and push on until the scary section ended and the butterflies in my stomach settled down.

After chatting to some other walkers we decided to take a minor deviation to Colle la Serra where there was going to be a classical music performance. What a unique experience - a flautist accompanied by a guitarist standing on the high hillside playing the most exquisite music.

As we returned to the route we noticed there were a huge group of walkers (180 people) coming from Bomerano to join the path. The Sentiero degli Dei does attract a lot of walkers but usually in smaller groups. We found out that they were from the global group The Gap Consultancy and this walk was just one of their week long team building activities. Great for them.... not so much for us! It made the remaining part of the walk to Nocelle somewhat crowded and less serene. Luckily they got picked up by bus there and we were able to have a nearly deserted scenic path past Montepertuso and down the 960 steps to Positano.

Positano clings to the hill either side of a deep valley and whilst attractive is very much a tourist magnet - food, shopping and a classic stony beach with regimented beach umbrellas and lounges for rent. Not my idea of relaxation, but each to their own!




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