Calabria and Puglia 2015

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Calabria and Puglia 2015

Notes o the Blog

I have lost track of the number of times that we have been to Puglia and Calabria. The last 5 years we have been returning to familiar towns and B&Bs and trying out 1 or 2 new ones each year. If you are reading this blog with the intent of visiting these areas, I would recommend also reading my 2014 and 2013 blogs. They contain more detailed information on the places and people that we visited. The best photos are likely also in those blogs.

In this year’s report I will not go into deep descriptions, location, emails, GPS, phone numbers since they all can be found in the previous blogs.

Three of the last 4 years we have flown with Alitalia from Toronto to Rome. On September 27, 2015 we left Toronto at 10:25pm.



Monday Sept 28, 2015

Our 50 minute connecting flight from Rome to Brindisi was made with plenty of time this year. We arrived at 3:30pm and picked up a rental car from Avis. I was pleased to find that we were able to get a Fiat QUBO, a square shaped 1.2 litre diesel that we had 2 years ago. With only 4 300 km on it. It had enough room for our 4 suitcases in the trunk.

For the first time in 3 years, our GPS refused to function from the airport. As a result we ended up going into Brindisi before getting more directions and arriving at HOTEL MINERVA on Via Adriatica in the direction of Vito dei Normanni phone [phone] www.ramahotels.com. This is our first time at this hotel. It is 7 km from the airport in the middle a field and beside an army base. Actually it is a fairly nice location as it is rural. Two pools and a furnished kitchen. We had dinner at the hotel. We would use this hotel again.




Each day we will list what the best thing was for each of us.

Joe’s Best: Making the connection to Brindisi

Carol’s Best: Dinner at Minerva





Tuesday September 29

GPS still not working, so we used an old map to drive to Casalini to the B&B Antica Aia of our very good friends (see previous blogs) This is our 5^th time here and we are always welcomed like family. On arrival we were given a large bowl of pecans (story behind it!) and another large bowl of grapes. In the afternoon the two children got home from school and came to visit (and pick up presents!!)

We decided on an easy dinner so drove the 5 minutes to La Piazetta da Pepppino and picked up two pizzas (total = 15E) We know our way around this village like a local resident!

Joe’s Best: Arriving at Antica Aia

Carol’s Best: Seeing Elvira, Franco and the kids again





Thursday September 30, 2015

As usual Elvira put on a fantastic breakfast spread. Much more than we usually get at a B&B. It includes fresh fruit usually picked from their trees that morning (they know our favourites such as figs, persimmon, and cactus pear.)

After 5 years we have seen all the sights in the area, so we come here to visit and lounge by the pool – which we did today, as well as going for a 5 km walk on the back roads.

For dinner we went to La Locanda del Ristoro in town. We have described this place many years. It is simply the best deal with the best food that we experience on our trip. We order ONE antipasto (8 items) which would feed at least 3 people. With a salad, wine, water, digestive and cappuccino the bill comes to 28E. Located beside the gas station www.lalocandadelristoro.com tel [phone]

Joe’s Best: Dinner at La Locanda

Carol’s Best: Relaxing in the sun and dinner.



Thursday October 1, 2015

Another bright and sunny day in Casalini. Some might consider this another boring day, but we really enjoy just “hanging out” at the B&B and going for long walks in the countryside.

For dinner, Elvira and Franco invited us to join their family. As usual Elvira provided lots of food and lots of variety. It is great eating with the two kids, as well, since they know us well enough by now that they accept us as a part of the family.

Joe’s Best: Dinner and the walk

Carol’s Best: By the pool and dinner





Friday October 2, 2015.

We had met 4 people yesterday from Belgium. Nathalie spoke perfect English (a translator) and we had few talks with her at the B&B and at La Locanda.

After breakfast Franco brought us a shopping bag full of ripe pomegranates!! Bowls of grapes and almonds and walnuts are always refilled on our table! Went for another 5.5 km walk. There are so many rural roads in the area that we are always discovering new ones

Thanks to Franco, we discovered wild arugula growing on the property. We had thought it to be just a weed. It is stronger than the cultivated kind, but we still added some to our salad for lunch. Dinner at La Locanda again.

Joe’s Best: The walk

Carol’s Best: The walk and the pool





Saturday October 3

As always it was very sad for us to be leaving and not knowing if we would ever be back. We have been trying for a few years to convince Franco and Elvira to visit us in Canada. Problem is that the B&B is their business and April to October it is very busy and the other times they would need to take the kids out of school. This time Elvira was asking more questions so perhaps …..

After all these years we should know better, but we found out what it was like trying to travel through small towns on Saturday which is often market day. In one word it is BEDLAM! Parking is wherever there is space whether it is the sidewalk, a doorway, an intersection!! We got lost in both Ostuni and Oria, two towns that we have passed through many times. Even though GPS was working again, it was of no help.

We finally arrived at Masseria Bosco, 1 km north of Avetrana towards Elchie. http://www.gruppodepadova.com Tel: [phone] GPS N40.365461 E017.727121. By the way a Masseria is an Agriturismo that was formerly a fortified farm. They all have dining rooms and pools and there are hundreds in Puglia.

This is one of the new Masserias that we were going to try out this year. We checked in and then went to look at two others in the area (Il Pavone and Tenuta Quintana.) We decided that BOSCO was by far the nicest. They have a one km long driveway through 100 hectares of olive groves and vineyards. There is a huge plant on site for processing the oil and wine. The pool is gorgeous and so is the dining area. Our room was a bit small and unfortunately we did not get much light, but everything else about this place made up for this. We bought some groceries in Avetrana for lunch and then had dinner at the Masseria.

Used the internet to make 4 free phone calls back to Canada. After dinner we sat out and studied the stars since there was so little light pollution and it was also so warm. One of the girls from the office, Julia, spoke English and joined us!

Joe’s Best: discovering Masseria Bosco

Carol’s Best: looking at the stars and listening to the crickets





Sunday October 4, 2015

We were pleasantly surprised to find a decent breakfast. Every year that we have come to Italy we have discovered some new technology that we were not familiar with. This year it was a machine that automatically poached an egg the way you wanted it (soft, medium, hard!) Breakfast also had lots of fruit, yogurt, cheese, meat, cereal and sweets.

After breakfast we went for a long walk between the rows and rows of olive trees and vineyards. We saw some people working in a vegetable field and went over to investigate. From a distance a man called us over. He said he was the owner’s brother in law. He picked a large pomegranate and gave it to us. Then he started searching for figs (season was over) and kept finding nice big juicy ones for us. Gave us lots of information on the vegetables (will be picked in late December or January) and about the olive oil processing plant. We had a very relaxing walk.

Later, I borrowed a bicycle and did about 4 km riding among the olives. BTW in this part of Italy, olives are usually picked in late October and November, so the trees were heavy with olives. We bought a bottle of their organic olive oil.

Tried out the pool and got some sun before having dinner again in their restaurant. If we did not have reservation for later in the month, we would have stayed here longer. We hope to return on a future trip.

Joe’s Best: Walking/Biking the property and discussion with man

Carol’s Best: Playing Frisbee and with a ball in the pool.





Monday October 5

We said goodbye to Julia and Loreda (other girl who spoke English.) Before leaving, Carol bought a number of skin care products made from their olive oil.

Our next stop was BORGANGNE, SE of Lecce, but with no direct route we made a few wrong turns. We stopped in the town to get my haircut at GAETANO’s, only to discover that my favorite barber, had closed up for 10 days on Friday. I have been there twice before and we really get along. I had saved my hair just for him!!!

Bought a few groceries and proceeded to Masseria Baronali, about a 1 km out of town. This was to be our third year. What a shock to find the gate locked! I had emailed last month and they had simply said that the restaurant would not be open.

What to do??? Drove back in to town to the grocery store and asked someone if they would call the Masseria (we had the phone numbers) In less than 10 minutes Federica and her mother Amalia showed up. They only have 4 rooms, so since there was no one there they had simply closed up until the following week when they had a reservation. They insisted that it was no problem for us to stay. We drove back and they set up room #1 (the best) for us. I had prepared a 2016 Canada Calendar, as a gift and they really seemed pleased to receive this! Since they live in town, we were basically on our own on this large estate.

Unfortunately, they had not been maintaining the pool (It is the best pool of all the places that we have stayed.) Around 5:30 we went for a walk and ended up in town. We were surprised when I inquired and found that there was a pizzeria nearby that was open (usually not until at least 7pm). So we bought two pizzas and walked back to our room for dinner! Later Federica and one of her brothers came back to check on us.

Joe’s Best: Being able to get into Baronali

Carol’s Best: The pizza





Tuesday October 6, 2015

What a surprised to find such a lavish spread for breakfast. It was as complete as when the Masseria is open and would have fed about 5 people. We told them to keep it simple for tomorrow. Federica had checked on my barber, since she was sure that he would come in just for me ….only to find out that he was on a boat cruise for 10 days!

After breakfast we set off for two of our favorite beaches in Puglia (lots of details in previous blogs.) First off was Alimini on the Adriatic just a few km north of Otranto. Very wide beach, 2-3 km long, with huge sand dunes. Swam, played in the water and walked.

Next was Sant’ Andrea which we discovered last year, after a night at the Baronali’s rental home. No beach here but fabulous scenery and grottos. I got my wish and was able to descend the rocks and swim into one of the grottos.

Our final stop was Torre dell’ Orso, which is our most visited beach in Italy. Had a quick lunch at the Adriatica Bar/Pizzeria and then hit the beach. Calm, warm waters of the Adriatic were perfect. For the first time, I decided to check out the BELVEDERE HOTEL recently built right beside the Torre (tower.) Off season prices looked reasonable, and we should look into it in the future. All of these beaches are within 15 minutes of each other and 10 minutes from our Masseria.

Tonight we ate in, from our previously purchased groceries.

Joe’s Best: Swimming in the grotto and the other beaches

Carol’s Best: Playing in the water and sunning on the beaches.





Wednesday October 7, 2015

Another fabulous breakfast. Amalia and Federica gave us a free boxed bottle of their organic olive oil as a gift. We would have bought more, but they were all out!

Once again our GPS, stopped working so we had to use map skills and memory to work our way south to the village of FELLINE and B&B DOLCE FELLINE. We arrived early and found Valentina preparing our room. Fridge was loaded with water, juice and a large bowl of grapes and other fruit. This is our 4^th visit to this B&B and Olga Pantovic, the owner, has become a very good friend (all year long.) Olga is a Serbian/Italian who also speaks perfect English. She and Carol always have a lot to talk about! With Olga’s help, we found a barber and I got my haircut.

For the third year we had dinner at Antico Monastario restaurant. Our first time there was the best. This evening I got a sore throat and immediately started gargling with salt water and praying that it was not the beginning of something more serious.

Joe’s Best: Arriving at the B&B and seeing Olga

Carol’s Best: Same





Thursday, October 8

Had a nice breakfast outside and Olga presented us with a basket of fresh persimmon, one of my favorite fruits. Although they have a small yard, they must grow around 10 different fruits as well as vegetables. After breakfast she insisted on doing our laundry, so we took off for a site on the Adriatic about 25 minutes away and just north east of Santa Maria di Leuca (the southernmost tip --- and one of our most visited towns)

On our way south last year we had by chance stopped for a rest and found that we were overlooking one of the most beautiful scenes in Puglia. We were on a bridge WAY above a small inlet, with a beach and grotto at the bottom. Returning here had been one of my objectives this year. Being off season there were only 2 other people down below (145 stone steps that zig zag like a switch back road) Swimming into this grotto was even better than the one at San Andrea. The whole scene is only visible if you stop. The location is called Ponto Ciolo. The entire coast here is cliffs and ocean!

On the way back we stopped off at the Santa Maria di Leuca Santuario which gives a fantastic view of the village, harbour, and Ionian and Adriatic Seas.

We continued along the coast to Marina di Pescoluse. Since our first year in the Salento region we have spent many, many days at this beach. It was a perfect day with puffy clouds, calm waters and 30’C.

For dinner we went to Posto di Vino, in Felline. Carol has always liked a particular meal here, but starting last year and continuing this year, neither one of us was pleased with a number of things. Therefore our last time!

Joe's Best: Swimming in the grotto at Ponto Ciolo

Carol’s Best: Marina di Pescoluse (I think this is her favorite beach in Salento)



Friday October 9, 2015

Another gorgeous day in Salento (the whole region generally south of Lecce)

We were headed for the beach at Baie Verde outside of Gallipoli. Although we had been here twice before and should have been easy to find …. We could not! So we turned around and went back to Pescoluse, which we both prefer anyway. Both days at Pescoluse we were able to get gelato!

Dinner was a treat as Olga invited us to dine with her and her daughter Valentina. We were still looking for olive oil so Olga called on a friend who was able to deliver two more litres!

Joe’s Best: Dinner with Olga and Valentina

Carol’s Best: Same





Saturday October 10, 2015

After breakfast Olga presented us with a bottle of wine and we prepared to leave in a light shower. Olga also insisted that we leave with one of her umbrellas.

About 20 km past Gallipoli, the rain became torrential and the winds were bending the trees. We were on an isolated back road. Found a place to pull over and waited it out while, at times it felt as if our QUBO would be blown over. After 20 minutes we started up again but the roads are not well drained, and a few times, we were worried that we might become stranded in a small lake or worse drive off the road! Also there was the worry that water might enter the car near the bottom of the door!

The Italian bureaucracy has something against signs. I believe that if people want to put up a sign to show direction to their B&B they must pay. So many places simply have a small sign attached to their door. Meaning that you could (and often do) drive right by it.

At this time we had no GPS, no detailed map, it was still raining and we were out in the country. We later found out that we were within a few hundred metres of our B&B but ended up driving in a huge circle (15 km) to arrive back where we belonged! Not the first time something like this has happened.

We arrived at Masseria Bagnara and Resort Spa, Strada Provinciale 125, Marina di Lizzana, phone [phone] GPS: N40.3384320 E017.4487780 in Taranta province.

This was to be a new masseria and a very special one. We were celebrating a special anniversary and decided, for once, to really splurge. The normal rate for 2 nights was over $CDN 800. But we did not want to splurge that much!! So we reserved for a weekend rate which would ONLY be just under CDN$600. In Puglia when we have splurged it might cost us a bit over $100.00 per night.

So first the good news: excellent mattress, lots of good lighting, lots of hot water and great shower pressure. Wi-Fi was good. Nice above ground pool. Nice location but --- all of the above could be applied to most of our lodgings.

Now the bad news: If you wanted a towel for the pool you had to rent one for about $8.00 a day, If you checked out late the charge was about ½ days rate. Now comes the dining room. This particular night was FISH NIGHT. That was it! Nothing else! My wife is allergic to many types of seafood so she was left with a small plate of pasta that they prepared with fish in it. She had been looking forward to a meal here for weeks.

The menu had no prices. It was set and when we asked, were told that per person it would cost around CDN$115.00. We decided to order a la carte. I found that my portions were extremely small and consisted of a few mouthfuls. When we asked for a bill, the waitress seemed surprised that we wanted to see it. She made up a list of what we had eaten but with NO prices or TOTALS. When I asked for the totals, she replied “now?”

Joe’s Best: Nothing

Carol’s Best: Arriving safely through the storm.



Sunday October 11

Breakfast was fine, but we have had as good and even better. Eggs were not offered but when we asked for them, we each got one fried egg with very salty bacon.

After breakfast we took the 5 minute drive south to the beach at Lizzana. This beach is a bit like the one at Alimini, with high sand dunes and a wide beach area. Yesterday when we went by in the storm the place was packed with surfers. Today we were alone.

We returned and I took one of the bicycles to explore the local roads. Carol spent time by the pool (with our own towel!) I was able to watch a Formula 1 race on tv.

Tonight’s meal was MEAT. After our experience from last night we decided that we had enough of our food that we could eat in the room.

Virtually every place has decent Wi-Fi so it is really nice being able to make internet calls back home and to listen to radio from Canada. The world really has shrunk to a global village.

This is a nice 5 year old Masseria and if the price was comparable to others we might return. Since we know of so many others that are just as nice, have a better choice of menu and cost only a fraction, then we can cross this place off our “return to” list.

Joe’s best: Walking on the sand dunes and biking

Carol’s Best: pool side



Monday October 12.

After breakfast we had some long chats with Alessandra our waitress and Francesco from the front office. They both would like to come to Canada (we get this a lot!)

We were in a new area and I was not looking forward trying to find our way to and around the city of Taranto when …. Our GPS started working again. We only made one wrong turn.

We were leaving Puglia and going through the region of Basilicata and in to Calabria. This is a nice highway that parallels the Ionian Sea and we have taken it umpteen times coming and going. A good portion is 4 lane and the rest is decent 2 lane with easy to get through small towns.

Our destination was Agriturismo Torre di Albidona near Trebisace. This was a new destination last year and we stayed here coming and going from Calabria to Puglia and back. Rosa, who speaks English, was at the front desk again.

We had the choice of getting the same room as last year (Jazz 4) , but decided to try the one beside it (Jazz 3). Each room is like a cottage with a full kitchen and a patio that looks out over the Ionian Sea. Figs, Pomegranates, and other fruits and flowers are growing just a few metres away. This Masseria is high above the Ionian Sea and has the best view of any place that we have ever stayed at --- including a 180 degree view of the sea. After lunch we wandered around the 200+ hectares of fruit trees. They grow pretty well every fruit possible.

Dinner was fantastic. We ordered 3 courses but the first one would have fed 3 people. We got meat, vegetables, pasta, salad and it was all great. Water was free and the whole meal cost about $32 total. What a difference from the previous two nights!!

Since it was Thanksgiving in Canada today, we spent over 2 hours on our patio making phone calls back home. It is so darn peaceful here, day and night!

Joe’s Best: Dinner

Carol’s Best: Dinner and the walk through the orchards.





Tuesday October 13, 2015

Even though we were here in early September last year, the breakfasts were much better this year. Besides the usual sweets we also had eggs, cheese, meat, yogurt, cereal etc.

After breakfast we took a hike up the road behind the Agriturismo. The road is very narrow and consists of steep switchbacks. At times we have to lean forward!! We were amazed to see a truck loaded with cement bags working its way up the mountain. We took this walk last year and once again, it was breathtaking as each corner gave a new view of the Ionian Sea spread out WAY below us. It was a place where you could stop, pause, and listen to the heat bugs or watch the hawks soaring above.

The afternoon was just spent relaxing and later in the day we took another walk through the orchards and explored the TORRE (tower) di Albidona , which of course was closed.

Joe’s Best: The walk up the hill side

Carol’s Best: The same





Wednesday October 14

Had another great breakfast outside beside the pool and watching the early morning sun glistening over the Ionian – magical.

Once again we were disappointed in not being able to buy olive oil. As with elsewhere, last year had not been a good season, and we were at the very end of last year’s olive oil production. This Agriturismo has cans in small sizes ranging from 250mL, 500mL and 1 litre cans. The smaller ones would be perfect for gifts. Next year we should check in advance to make sure that they still have some.

Highway 106 runs from Taranto all the way to Reggio Calabria along the Ionian Sea. It was a perfect day to enjoy this drive through small towns and vistas of the ocean. We even know where bank machines, toilets, restaurants etc are located along the way!

We were headed for our favorite Agriturismo in Calabria – Agriturismo Casa di Botro in Botricello. A few days earlier I had contacted Luigi Colucci, the owner/operator to expect us for 4 days. Luigi wrote back that the Agriturismo would actually be closing on Thursday! He would be there Wednesday and Thursday. The restaurant would also close but, just as with Baronali, he insisted that we could stay the full 4 days anyway.

He offered us one of their apartments with a full kitchen. Carol decided she did not want to cook, so instead we asked for their suite (2 bedrooms, living room) etc and we would take the 10 minute walk into town for dinner. Their pool would remain open and their private beach on the ocean would also be available.

We were welcomed by Maggs (Magdalena) the girl from Poland that we met last year when she was waiting on tables. Maggs speaks excellent English (as does Luigi.) She informed us that in February 2016 she would be having a child. The father was Giovanni, who is the waiter at night. This is the third year that we have seen him and he too speaks perfect English!!

Had a great dinner (our only one here) this evening and had some long chats with Giovanni and afterwards we met with Luigi and caught up with him. On Friday he was driving 1100 km to Milan for his girlfriend’s birthday!

Joe’s Best: Seeing Maggs, Giovanni and Luigi again.

Carol’s Best: Dinner



Thursday October 15

Had our one and only breakfast here and a long chat with a German couple who were on their way to Puglia. Of the many years that we have been coming to Calabria, today was the first time that we were forced to stay indoors due to rain! Around 3pm it cleared up and we were able to take a walk in to town.

Luigi had recommended Arcadia Pizzeria/Ristorante, about 15 minutes away. In spite of it being a restaurant we both decided to order a pizza!

Joe’s Best: Nothing

Carol’s Best: Breakfast



Friday October 16

The morning did not look good and neither did the weather report. We are the only people at the Agriturismo. At 11am we decided to go to their private beach, about 4 km away. We spent 3 days here last year and also the year before. The surf was really strong but on land it was perfectly calm for sun bathing and playing Frisbee. Returned at 3:30 and spent time by the beautiful pool.

Once again Carol decided she did not want to wait for a late dinner so we walked to TONY PIZZA, less than 10 minutes away. The people are very friendly and you can select from about 6 different kinds of pizzas but instead of ordering a whole pizza you can mix and match various slices. We had been here last year and liked it.

Joe’s Best: The Beach

Carol’s Best: The same





Saturday October 17

Since we are getting our own breakfast, we had bought some milk and cereal and having that with fruit and yogurt. Nice change! Got an email from Luigi that he had arrived in Milan after his drive of 1100 km in one day!

Today was a duplicate of yesterday. Until mid-afternoon we were at the beach and then at the pool. Today was less windy and up to 30’C. After 3 weeks of eating out we are pretty sick of it so tonight we made a salad and ate in our room.

Joe’s Best: Beach Time

Carol’s Best: Same



Sunday October 18

Our next stop was only 18 km away at Agriturismo Santacinnara, near Soveria Simeri. We found this place last year but only because Donato, the owner met us on the highway and led us back. This is a real working farm with all the fruit trees and olives but as well they have a number of animals from horses, pigs, goats, sheep, geese, ducks, asses, chickens etc. They really stress the “biological” aspect of the farm. We met Donato and Maria Fratelli last year and got along so well that we wanted to return and see them, even for just a few days.

This year they prepared their ELENA room which was beside SILVIA where we were last year. Both have two floors (with a bedroom in the loft and one below) Full size fridge, stove, pots, pans, cutlery, glasses (beer, wine, water) dishes. This is a few steps above the usual places that provide cooking facilities. Every item from pots to dishes is top quality. They also have thought of the smallest details from pot holders and napkins to providing coffee, olive oil, salt etc. Electric plug outside and a real bathtub!! On our entire trip this was the only place with a bathtub! We were also provided with bottled water and a bowl of fruit.

We went for a walk and discovered more trails and areas that we missed last year. We found wild oregano growing like a weed and bamboo that was 2-3 storeys tall.

Their farm goes back 3 generations. Last year we browsed through what we thought was a tractor museum (around 10 all lined up.) How surprised we were this year when Donato told us that in fact they all worked. Some are small while others are huge! One of the older tractors has a “Lamborghini” label on it! This is how the car company started!

Last year Donato took us to an indoor museum. This year we saw another area that was devoted to farm implements and tools. All items have been used on the farm.

For supper we used the kitchen and cooked pasta and pork chops. Nice change! Maria brought us a pear/walnut tort for dessert.

Joe’s Best: Exploring more of the farm.

Carol’s Best: Reading with Joe in the kitchen (the best light!)



Monday October 19

With the full kitchen at our disposal I made a frittata (omelette) while Carol baked some pancetta and made toast. Used the coffee maker and therefore ended up with a Canadian breakfast for a nice change.

We did a lot of laundry (dries well here) and then just enjoyed the day and the property. I presented Maria with a 2016 calendar with scenes from Canada. I think she was the most appreciative of all the people that I have done this for!

Before supper Maria sent over a plate of marinated olives which had just recently been picked. I love all olives but these were different! As soon as I bit into one, something went off in my brain. I recognized the taste from my childhood. My mother used to make these same olives, Maria said that the process is very common in Calabria.

Gave Donato and Maria a show on my tablet with about 50 photos that I had taken last year. They wanted a copy!

Had another home cooked meal!

Today is Election Day in Canada. To get the results I’ll have to get up around 4am!

Joe’s Best: Just enjoying the day, the farm and our friends.

Carol’s best: same



Tuesday October 20

Election results showed a major upset by the liberals of Justin Trudeau, back in Canada.

Enjoyed our homemade coffee on the patio at 8am this morning. We bought another litre of olive oil and said our goodbyes to Donato and Maria.

Once again our next stop was very short. Just 20 km away at Catanzaro Lido.

3-4 years ago we met Tommaso Ursano and we have stopped off every year to visit him. His sister and husband have come to Toronto twice and made the 2 hour trip north to visit us as well. So this was like a family visit. We went for an Italian lunch and of course the food just kept coming! As a result, Carol and I were in no condition to have ANY supper!

Spent the afternoon with our friends. They own a bar/gelataria within spitting distance of the boardwalk along the sea. We did have room for some gelato!

Tonight we are staying at the Best Western Plus Perla del Porto. I selected this place because it is a 5 minute walk from their bar/gelataria. The hotel is new and has a fantastic location. A bit on the expensive side, but it was convenient.

Joe’s Best: Spending time with our friends

Carol’s Best: Room at Best Western and visiting friends.



Wednesday October 21.

Even though we have travelled through the Catanzaro area many, many times, we always end up getting lost …. And that is with GPS working. I was not looking forward to it. Fortunately Tommaso offered to lead us out of the city and on to the main highway!

Our final stop was at La Tonnara hotel in Amantea about 60 km away and on the Tyrrhenian Sea. We have stayed here 3 times before since it has great views (right on the beach), fantastic sunsets and a short drive to the airport that we use.

We first stumbled on the Amantea area in 1990 and have been back so many times to the beach and other hotels. The afternoon was rainy so no beach. Had dinner at the hotel and met up with a British couple spending a whole month here.

Joe’s Best: getting through Catanzaro easily!

Carol’s Best: dinner and chatting with the English couple.



Thursday October 22.

This is our last day! After so many years of having great luck with the weather we are getting payback as once again today the forecast is for RAIN! After breakfast (a good one) we used umbrellas and went for a walk.

ON our final day we are always deciding what items to leave behind and how to pack our olive oil (5 ½ litres this time) Dinner again at the hotel and long talks with the British couple.

Joe’s Best: Getting out for a walk in the rain!

Carol’s Best: Dinner and chatting with the Brits again.



Friday October 23

After breakfast we quickly packed up and left for the 28 km drive to the airport. I now know this area so well that I know short cuts and back roads!

The airport at LaMezia Terme is really nice. It is an international airport but still small enough to easily get around. Many times we have found flights that bring us to Lamezia directly from Toronto (limited times of the year)

In Rome we were on a bus waiting for a transfer to our terminal. A man kept staring at us. Finally he spoke up (in English) and said, “You were here 3 years ago.” Yes we were. How did you know? “I never forget a face” he said.

He stared some more and said, “you are from Bracebridge” Wow! Yes!

Stared some more and “…you were both teachers”

So what is the probability of meeting someone 3 years later on a different month and day on the same bus, who appears to have a photographic memory?? We still can’t get over this “coincidence!”





If you are going to Calabria, Puglia, Basilicata or Abruzzo be sure to check out my other blogs over the years. Any questions or comments please get in touch with “Joe” at [e-mail]

More photos below …

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