Geo: 38.2537, 15.7152The plan - get out of Naples as soon as possible this morning, and head down to the beaches of Calabria, a region considered by Northern Italians to be a backwater, dangerous and ruled by the mafia. Of course, plans rarely work out, so we were stuck in Naples for several more hours than intended, as we showed up at the train station only to find all the seats on the two early southbound trains to be fully booked, unless we wanted to stand on the train for nearly three hours!In the end, this wasn't the worst thing, as it gave us a few hours to wander around Naples and verify that last night wasn't just an illusion, that it was indeed a changed city. Sure, there was still evidence of the old Naples,
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