Ireland 2019 Day 9

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A blessed late start today at 9:30. It has rained all night. I thought I saw a sliver of sun when we wake, but it's soon gone.

We are on the way to Dingle, County Kerry, which is home to Ireland's highest mountain range. As usual, Tony keeps us entertained en route with endless stories, some of which may be true.

* He recounts the Bishop Casey scandal. Casey, a highly regarded and influential Irish bishop in this area, had an affair with an American woman and fathered a child, leading to his resignation in disgrace.

* Tony muses about two factors that had a significant beneficial effect on Ireland in the 1960s. First, the election as US president of one John Fitzgerald Kennedy, whose ancestors were from this area. Second, the discovery of Ireland by Hollywood, which resulted in many movies being filmed here.

* As recounted by Tony, an ancient Kerry pagan tradition has survived: the goat festival, where a goat is named King Puck for 3 days, a period marked by great merriment and copious drinking. These days, the goat is no longer slaughtered at the end, but simply returned to his field to work out his hangover.

* We drive through Castlemaine, the hometown of Jack Duggan, a famous rebel and Robin-Hood-like thief whose storied career started here in Ireland and finished in Australia. His exploits were memorialized in the song "Wild Colonial Boy".

We stop at the seashore at Inch Strand Beach. This is arguably the most famous beach in Ireland, 5 km of sand and dunes stretching into Dingle Bay. The films Ryan’s Daughter, the Playboy of the Western World, and many others were filmed here. Surfers are braving the cold water (in wetsuits, of course). Across the bay are mountains shrouded in mist. The weather starts to clear as we leave Inch Strand; it seems like the first sun we’ve seen in days.

We stop again a little further on for views of valley. The landscape is windswept, with grasses bowing in time to the prevailing breezes. The coast line alternates between rocky promontories and slightly sheltered beaches. Waves dash themselves to foam on the rocky shores. Beautiful.

Finally we reach Dingle, a major fishing port with a bustling harbour. It is the hometown of Pauly O’Shea, one of the most famous Gaelic footballers. But we are not stopping in Dingle right away. We continue through the town to tackle Slea Head Drive, a spectacular circular route around the mountainous tip of Dingle Peninsula.

Here's where David the bus driver earns his pay. We are heading northwest (and driving on the left), so we are in the outside lane. Sheer cliffs on the left with only a low stone wall, steep cliffs on the right. Every time we encounter an oncoming vehicle of any size, David has to stop and pull over. Once we meet another bus, but happily there is a lane to pull into. At a very narrow and twisty section, we come face-to-face with a BMW, and there is no place to go. David motions to the bimmer driver, probably a tourist, that he has to back up, but it takes him quite a while to figure out that there is no alternative. Finally he starts inching backward. He is obviously intimidated by the bus slowly creeping towards his front bumper, and several times he goes way off track and has to reset. Finally he reaches a spot where he can pull in and let us by. Poor guy. We all wave as we motor past.

We have a photo stop at the foundations of an ancient stone ring fort, c. 3000 BC. Fantastic views of the ocean seascape below us. One of the promontories across the bay is named the Sleeping Giant because if you use your imagination and squint your eyes, you can see a giant lying there, his head towards the sea. Also visible from here are some ancient stone dwellings known as beehive huts for their shape.

There's a food cart set up nearby that is selling pan cookies made with various berries, and they are completely delicious. The seller's border collie, named Toby, loves visitors and makes a point of greeting each one of us personally.

This is, by the way, the westernmost point of Ireland. We are near the Blasket Islands, some of which can be spied in the distance through the clouds, mist and spray. Further out are a couple of islands that were used as locations for Star Wars: The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi. Other mainland locations were used as well.

We drive through the small town of Ballyferriter. This is where the Star Wars movie cast and crew were stationed during filming. Tony tells us that, when filming wrapped up, the entire cast in full costume marched into the local school to say goodbye and thank you.

Completing the circular Slea Head Drive, we return to Dingle for a late lunch. Dingle is a bustling town with a distinct maritime flavour, full of sounds associated with the sea: the cry of gulls, the whisper of breaking waves, and the toots of small and big boats in the harbour.

We snap a picture of Fungie the dolphin, or rather his statue. Fungie, also known as the Dingle Dolphin, is a wayward bottlenose dolphin who has made his home in Dingle harbour since 1983 and has become quite famous for his friendly interactions with humans. There are several tourist boats advertising a close encounter with Fungie.

Tony suggests Dingle is one of the best places in the country for seafood. So we opt for a restaurant named Harrington’s and order seafood chowder plus an order of calamari and fries. The chowder may be the best we’ve ever had. Lots of different fish and shellfish; some we're not sure what they are. And the calamari is exquisite: never frozen, practically melts on your tongue.

A long return ride back to Killarney. Once back at the hotel, I visit the Centra across the street to pick up some provisions (OK, wine). One can see Centras all over Ireland; they are gas stations and dépanneurs rolled into one. The variety of items for sale is broad and varied.

Tonight we are to be treated to an Irish musical show. We are bussed to a facility that appears to be a casino and race track by day. A large hall is set up with rows of seats on the floor and risers behind, seating probably 300 people. And it’s packed with tourists. The show is top-notch, with professional-level dancers, singers and musicians. High energy and expertly performed. The highlight is when the male dancers jump onto tables placed around the room to do their ear-crunching, hand-clapping step-dance routine. I also appreciate the subtle modern twist the musicians bring to this traditional music: influences from rock, jazz and pop in the harmonies and soloing.

Another stumble to bed and asleep night.

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Photos

Inch Beach
Slea Head Drive, Dingle Penninsula

Seascape 1
Slea Head Drive, Dingle Penninsula

Seascape 2
Slea Head Drive, Dingle Penninsula

Beehive huts
Slea Head Drive, Dingle Penninsula

Seascape 3
Slea Head Drive, Dingle Penninsula

Star Wars sign
Slea Head Drive, Dingle Penninsula

Fungie the Dolphin and young riders
Dingle, Ireland

Harrington's Fish Restaurant
Dingle, Ireland

Performers in an Irish musical show
Kilkenny, Ireland