Downing the "Black Stuff" in Dublin

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The notion that all Irishmen are drunkards isn't true, but that doesn't mean they don't enjoy a few pints while singing a tune. In fact, much of the stereotype is propagated by college kids flocking to the capital city of Dublin to enjoy the bustling nightlife. Many come here expecting overflowed taps and lush greens, which the country certainly lives up to with its nickname, "the Emerald Isle," but there's more to this island than booze and grass. People forget that Ireland produced the foremost literary figures of the 20th century, including Nobel laureates W.B Yeats, Samuel Beckett, and Oscar Wilde. Its history as a Viking settlement in 988 A.D. instilled strong values and national pride into its people, helping them escape the Great Famine in the mid-1800s and gaining independence from the U.K. in 1922. With all its accomplishments, it's no surprise these folks celebrate with a heavy glass of "the black stuff." Heck, if your greatest contribution to the world is the biggest drinking holiday of the year and the most popular beer on the planet, wouldn't you too?

That's why Kristina and I kicked off our week-long tour of western Europe in Dublin, North America's gateway to the continent. For the first time, we're traveling with another couple, which was fitting for a city where more is indeed merrier. With a youthful population where half of its residents are under 25 years-old, Dublin is home to many hostels. Thus, we opted to stay at several (Jacob's Inn and Egali Hostel) to meet fellow travelers. But while its citizens are young, the beer certainly isn't, which was why our first priority was to take the bus from Trinity College to the Guinness Storehouse.

Arthur Guinness started brewing in 1759. So confident was he that he signed a 9,000-year lease for the facilities at £45 per year. He took care of his employees with healthcare, meals, and education, although the company forbade the workers from marrying a Catholic until 1939. In the same decade, Guinness became the 7th largest corporation in the world and its storehouse was recently hailed as Europe's top attraction, beating out the likes of the Eiffel Tower and the Colosseum. This is no surprise considering the amazing marketing the company has achieved; the slogan, "Guinness is Good for You," is a play on consumer sentiment and a crack at social norms, while one of its T.V. ads was proclaimed by a U.K. poll as the best of all time in 2000. The managing director in 1951 went as far as promoting the brand by giving away a book detailing world records when he couldn't figure out whether the golden plover or the red grouse was faster (it's the plover). The Guinness Book of World Records quickly became the best selling copyright book in history and is now the most frequently stolen book from public libraries.

Guinness has established a legacy that justifies its popularity the world over, and no visit to Dublin would be complete without a peek into the storehouse. We and our friends booked the Connoisseur Tasting Experience for 50Є apiece, which started with an exclusive tasting in their private bar of 4 varieties (the widely known Draught, the original Extra Stout, the African favorite Foreign Extra, and the reinvented Brewers Project). Our guide, Alan, was a wonderful storyteller who combined wit, charisma, and enthusiasm to fascinate while teaching us the history of this fabled brew. From tales of African miners using the dark ruby color to verify a diamond's authenticity, to young lads at the bar collecting Guinness bottle caps as a status symbol, the one-hour tasting did more than excite the palate.

Alan then ushered our group of Scots and Americans downstairs for a lesson on how to pour the perfect pint: tilt the glass at 45^o, pour to the iconic harp logo (which points to the right, while the national emblem faces left), wait 119.5 seconds, and top off to form a bulging head. We each received a certificate to commemorate our achievement, then shared a group toast full of beer mustaches with Alan.

Afterwards, we headed upstairs to the Gravity Bar, which offered a 360^o view of the city while enjoying yet another pint. The rest of the afternoon was left for exploring the factory, somewhat unremarkable after the intimate tour we just received. We left the storehouse satisfied with the start to our trip despite missing much of our itinerary--including Kilmainham Gaol and Grafton Street--and decided to head back to O'Connell Street for dinner. Our first choice, Brannigan's (9 Cathedral St), was a happening Irish pub that unfortunately stopped serving food, so we skipped the merriment and went to Madigan's (19 O'Connell St). Kristina and I shared a platter of potato wedges, wings, sausages, and goujons (chicken tenders), while our friends ordered fish 'n' chips. After a hearty meal, we explored the nearby Henry St. and Moore St., but seeing that it was a Sunday in a devoutly Catholic nation, everything had closed early. We decided to head home because early next morning was our red-eye to London.

We would return to Dublin the last day of our trip to catch our return flight to D.C. We spent the final night exploring Temple Bar, rated by Huffington Post as the top 10 most disappointing attractions in the world along with Vegas, Hollywood, and Frankfurt, one of our other destinations on this trip. This lively district south of the River Liffey--which separates the city into the grittier northern half and the more affluent southern half--feels like an American rendition of what Irish pubs are supposed to look like. The area was derelict until the 1990s when city officials revitalized the neighborhood to attract tourism, which explains its somewhat ingenuine facade. Live music overshadowed by tourist chatter was the soundtrack of Temple Bar, which Kristina and I quickly perused before heading to Ray's (8 Fownes St Upper) for a cheap dinner. We ended the night strolling back through town and walking on Dublin's iconic landmark, Ha'Penny Bridge, which used to charge half a penny to cross, hence its name.

The next morning before our flight, we managed to squeeze in a visit to Trinity College's Book of Kells and Old Library. The former is a manuscript illustrating the four Gospels of the New Testament via intricate calligraphy and is regarded as Ireland's finest national treasure. The latter is considered among the best libraries in the world, as it holds every book ever published in the U.K. and Ireland, as well as the Brian Boru harp, which is the model for the national emblem. With one last attraction under our belt, we jetted off to the airport to catch our plane back to the States, only to encounter a delay that would extend our trip.

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Photos

Connoisseur Tasting Experience
4 varieties of Guinness: Draught, Extra Stout, Foreign Extra, Brewer's Project

Pouring the Perfect Pint
45 degree tilt, pour to the logo, wait 119.5 seconds, top off to form the head

Trinity College Old Library
Considered one of the best libraries in the world

National Emblem of Ireland
Located in Trinity College's Old Library