Day 9: Kilkenny to Kinsale

---

Tuesday, October 12: Rise and Shine!! We wanted to get to Kilkenny Castle this morning so we were up early and hiked up the street to be the first two visitors of the day. We did a self-guided tour of this beautiful site with helpful information from the docents. What a lineage-it was a castle, then a manor, and now has been restored lovingly to its 19th Century splendor. It is a work in progress but well worth the time to visit. The rose gardens and fountain, and the view to the river below were beautiful on this clear, bright October morning. We collected our car from the Car Park and stopped back at the inn to pack and check out. We stopped briefly on the way to the Car Park for a scone and cookie, and found our host, John, enjoying some peace and quiet at the cafe. We left the inn in search of St. Canice's Cathedral but the winding streets confused us. Ed pulled off into a hospital parking lot and found two young women to ask directions of. Unfortunately he had a "U.S." moment and simply pulled over to the right to talk, right in the way of oncoming traffic...Oops!! "Stay to the Left, Ed!!" The young women gave excellent directions and we found St. Canice's Cathedral in no time. It is astounding and the placques on the wall listing the former bishops date back to the first century A.D., when people only used single names. A quick stop at an ATM, followed by a chat with a local grocer for directions, had us on our way to Cashel. The drive, along a Regional route, was absolutely gorgeous on this beautiful fall day. The road was lined with rock walls on either side and lovely tree overhangs with vistas of the Irish countryside. We pulled off at Delaney's Inn for a pint and a lunch of...guess...fish and chips!! This was a quiet little roadside stop and very pleasant. We were off to Cashel and the Rock. We easily found parking on the street and hiked up the hill to the reception desk. We realized the toilets were at the bottom of the hill and hiked back down and up again. We did a self-guided tour (again) of the grounds. The facility is currently undergoing restoration so some of the chapel was blocked off, but otherwise the views and the majesty of this former king's site of power was amazing. This needs to be on everyone's agenda when touring Ireland. By this time, we needed another pint, so we found Byrne's Capitol Bar in downtown Cashel for a quick pint while watching an Irish version of HGTV--Room to Improve. A North Dublin row house was renovated before our very eyes. We couldn't leave until we saw the finished project, then we were off to Kinsale, via Cork. We were using our GPS to help guide us through Cork but Ed decided 'she' wanted to take him on an alternate route so decided to turn off early. We found ourselves a little lost and had to resort to using the GPS goddess to get us through the city. In no time we were on our way to Kinsale on Route 600. It was another beautiful country road with rock walls, tree overhangs, lovely Irish cottages...you get the idea. The reds and yellows are really coming out in the trees and vines to mix with the 40 shades of green to make for a lovely early fall season. We made a quick stop at Allen's Bar in a small town on the way, but can't remember what village we were in. We met the owner, Eamonn, who gave us some recommendations for places to visit for pints and dinner. He also said he would look us up when he visits Iowa--but we shouldn't be expecting him anytime soon...or maybe ever. Arrived in Kinsale around 6:00 pm. The streets were bustling and we had a difficult time locating our B&B. Ed pulled over with the idea of asking for directions, looked up and there was our B&B--the Anchorage. It is located up a stairway. We parked below, climbed the steps and met our hostesses, Mary and Ann. After checking in, we walked into the village, finding our first pint at Oscar Madison's, where the Ireland-Slovakia soccer match was just beginning. We watched for a pint, then walked down to Ned Kelly's where we shared a dinner of tenderloin medallions, mushrooms and new potatoes and a cup of seafood chowder. We watched the rest of the soccer match, they tied 1-1, and then went in search of music. We found An Seanchasie with a duo--Liam and Joe. They took requests and played pop, rock, and Irish songs with gusto. There was a sea chanty choir from Holland called De Dudeldoppers in the crowd and they performed several songs throughout the night. As we left the pub, we talked with Liam and Joe. Liam invited Ed to perform on Wednesday night. Do you suppose he will?? We walked back to our B&B, stopping by The White House where a group of trad musicians were finishing up the night. The bar was closed, chairs stacked on the tables, glasses stacked on the bar, but the music played on. We listened for a while before heading home on a crisp, starry October night in Ireland.

---

Comments

[Jim Wines]

good travels
I just found your travel log and enjoy hearing about the sights from Ireland. You are visiting many of the same places that Linda and I enjoyed back in 1995. I particularly enjoy how you've been dealing with the driving - it's a challenge, isn't it? Have a Guiness for me today!