Glaciers, Fjords and Langoustine

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So, we've got a lot of driving today, but first, a walk. We left the hotel and drove a few minutes to the Skaftafell National Park. Again, entry and hiking in the park is free, but not parking.

So, I paid the parking fee and we found a trail that wasn't too long. We headed out towards the Skaftafellsjökull glacier.

By the way, if you haven't figured it out by now, a little Icelandic: Jökull (pronounced 'Yokutl') means glacier. Foss means falls.

Anyway, back to the story. We walked along the path towards Skaftafellsjökull, each at their own pace. So Gilat and I were quite a way ahead, then kids were not too far behind, and the grandparents were a little slower. After about a half hour walk we came to the tip of the glacier, where the ice breaks off into a small lake. We spent some time there, enjoying the clean, cool air, the icebergs floating in the lake, the view of the glacier and the surrounding mountains, the plants, birds and ice. It was so serene, peaceful and quiet.

Eventually we made our way back to the information center and our car, and drove on to our next stop; Jökulsárlón, or Glacier Lagoon. This is where a large glacier ends in a lagoon. Icebergs break off into the lagoon and slowly move with the flow out to sea, where they break up and are thrown by the waves up onto the beach like diamonds on the black sand. The ring road goes over a bridge that spans the lake's outlet to the sea, so on your left is the glacier lagoon, and on your right, the diamond beach. We parked and went to wander on the beach, between chunks of ice of all sizes and shapes. We watched the waves crash over some of the larger chunks a little further out, rocking and moving some of them, and, of course, took lots of pictures. Then we walked under the bridge to the lagoon and saw the much larger icebergs floating near the opening, waiting their turn to be taken out to sea. At the time, the tide was coming in, so pieces of ice were actually flowing inland, from the sea to the lagoon.

By the time we had our fill of ice and water, it was about noon, so we got in the car to defrost and drive on. We thought about stopping at the Hoffell Hot Tubs, which I'd read about, but decided it was too cold for outdoor bathing, regardless of the temperature of the water. Besides, we were getting hungry and had recommendations for a restaurant in the town of Höfn. We made our way to the Pakkhús Restaurant, which is supposed to have fantastic lobster dishes. Pakkhús is a pleasant place, in what used to be a warehouse right on the port. Their lobster and fish come from the Sigurdur Olafsson SF44, the red ship parked right outside the restaurant. Can't get much fresher than that! They also have fresh fish and lamb.

We had a lovely meal of langoustine, fish and other goodies, and then had a short walk around the harbor. Then we loaded up and continued East. Soon we were entering fjord country as the road twisted around several fjords. Towards dusk we planned to stop for a rest at a little waterfall called Sveinsstekksfoss. I missed the turn, so I turned the car around a bit further on. Turns out there were some sheep in an enclosure right there, and we got out to have a closer look. Then we drove back and up the dirt road to the falls.

The falls were very beautifull, and especially dramatic with the fiery color of the sun sinking behind some light clouds. But we all had a good laugh at the sign. Turns out the falls are on private land, and the owners want to keep it clean (apparently they have a problem with defecating tourists). The sign says "This is our land please respect. No shit no paper."

We had a laugh, then loaded up and drove on. It was dark by now, and we needed gas and a supermarket, but there are very few towns out here and not all of them even have a gas station! Eventually we found one. While there, we got some coffee and hot dogs from the decidedly unenthusiastic attendant.

No open supermarkets at this time of ... night? It was a little after 7 PM and everything is closed, the streets are dark. Ok, small town, but really?

Anyway, we found our hotel in the metropolis of Eskifjörður (seriously, a big town of about 1,000 people!). It was dark. I rang the intercom and was answered that they would be there in a few minutes. Sure enough, the owners, an elderly couple came speeding up in their car a few minutes late, all excited (too excited?) to meet us, and led us through quite a maze, down some stairs, by a vault with a wine rack, up a few more stairs, and finally to our rooms. They had placed us on different floors of the small building. Lord knows why, we were the only people there, but they did open up a room right next to the first floor room. Still, it was odd. The only customers in a strange, if modern building in a small town in the middle of nowhere. Like the start of a bad horror film.

Still, the rooms were comfortable and there was a rear entrance to the building next to our rooms with easier access to the parking lot. We had a potluck dinner, locked our rooms and went to bed.

Tomorrow we're crossing over the island to Mývatn and Húsavík.

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