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Published: October 15th 2009
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Today was the day I met Carolyn Bánfalvi for a walking tour of the Central Market Hall. I took the tram down the Buda side of the Danube, and walked over the green Liberty Bridge. Was a very easy stroll and quite pleasant regardless of the cold rain. Carolyn was a great tour guide and full of information. We were up, down and all around the Hall looking at cases of fresh produce, including things that I really haven't seen since I was a kid. Off the top of my head, I remember seeing quince and kalarabi, which we would just salt and eat. She talked about the mushroom inspectors who make sure that the foragers haven't any poisonous mushrooms, showed me a bacon from a special breed of pig that is very fatty. I was able to taste some of the smoked fat. I picked up some different paprikas, a Hungarian cuisine book and a few other things. This Hall is what the French Market in Columbus would be if it were, say 10 to 20 sizes larger. The smells were so incredible that I remarked how I wished I could take pictures of smells.
After we had walked
the Central Market Hall, we took a city bus to another market hall in a more working class part of the city. This hall had not been renovated and was more gritty and down to the business of feeding Budapest. It was very interesting to see the similarities as well as differences in the 2 halls. I am so glad I found her website and booked a day with her.
On the way back from the other market hall, we stopped so I could buy my train ticket for tomorrow. It was a nice, cold, fairly long walk to a small Jewish restaurant that is well known, but not touristy. I was glad Carolyn was with me, because I really think I would have done a few faux pas with my non Magyar speaking self. I had a chicken soup with a semolina dumpling and splash of hot paprika paste, and then roast pork with the most wonderful buttery potatoes and cabbage braised with caraway seeds. It was simple, honest, wholesome food.
After we parted ways, I came back to the B&B to drop my things and headed back down to the tram along the river. Walked over
Sausages and Salamis
Wish I could bring some home with me the Chain Bridge and then under it to find the Holocaust Monument on the river bank. There are 50 pairs of bronze shoes on the edge. The Arrow Cross government would line people up on the river bank, shoot them and let them fall into the Danube. I remember hearing that the Blue Danube ran red, but don't remember from where. This was a very sad monument. I think what made it so moving is that there were so many different types of shoes - men , women, children, boots. On a cold day that wasn't yet winter, I can only imagine how cold it would be in the winter along the banks.
From there, I walked back across the Chain Bridge and took a funicular up the hill to Castle Hill. By this time it was getting late, so I didn't have much time. I walked around a bit and then took a tour of a hospital built into caves. It was used in the second World War, as well as during the Revolution in the 50's. It was also ready in case of a Cold War and had special decontamination rooms and its own water and power
source. For an off the beaten track museum, I was the only one on the tour, it was fascinating. Once done with that, I took the funicular down, tram back and had another great dinner and couple beers. Surprisingly I didn't have soup. I had the special of chicken wrapped in a crepe and slathered with a paprika cream and sour cream. Was nice, but I know we could do better at work, and I imagine we will. For the entree I had pork medallions in a garlic sauce with spaetzle. Spent the rest of the evening trying to pack and get ready to head out for Vienna tomorrow.
Thanks for reading.
B
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carrie
non-member comment
I love coming to work every day and checking your blog first thing! I feel like I am learning so much and it isn even 8:30am yet! Thank you, thank you, thank you Brendan for sharing your trip!! Carrie