Buda+Pest

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Arrived from Krakow on a night train last Saturday and though sinusitis was bothering me, I plunged right into sight seeing. My first impression of the city, formed while trying to locate my hostel, was that of faded grandeur. Budapest's heydays were in the late 19th century when it was one of the capitals of the the Austro-Hungarian empire. Walking down the wide boulevards amidst the imposing buildings, gave me the impression that this was once a very important and grand place. Since then though the city has gone through 2 world wars, Soviet invasion and almost 60 years of communist neglect. Some of the buildings have gotten face lifts but most are still soot covered and in various states of decay. It's not as romantic as Prague or even Krakow but it certainly feels more intriguing.
Since arriving I've seen most of the recommended sights. The first day was spent stolling down Vaci Utca which is a pedestrianized shopping street. At the end of which is the great shopping hall where all sorts of produce and souvenir shops. I met a Thai woman who works here and I asked her about where I could get some good Thai food. I know it's strange to look for asian food in Hungary but I was hungry for it. She suggested this small restaurant just off the main tourist drag. Food was okay and I was about to write off the whole experience but as I was about to leave I noticed a Madonna poster on the wall (circa Bedtime stories). It had a hand written note which thanked the restaurant for a good meal. I asked the owner about it and he explained that Evita/Madonna ate here when they were filming the movie. In addition he mentioned that Yoko Ono was also at the restaurant a few years back. Just goes to show travel can have a lot of surprises if you venture off the beaten path.
The rest of my sight seeing consisted of visiting the monuments and the city park. Most of Budapest's must see monuments are from 1896 when the city celebrated 1000 years of Hungarian history.
The cities other main (and more enjoyable) attraction are the numerous baths that are a legacy from the Turkish occupation. I guess the city is built on top of several hot spings and people have been coming here to soak since Roman times. I went to the Gellert which is supposed to be the most elegant. Though a little in need of renovation it was definitely quite a sight with beautiful old tile work and glass domed ceilings (although the main dome was being repaired).I did a few laps in the pool but mostly it was nice just soaking in the mineral spring pool. Most of the patrons were either tourist or bikini clad older locals. Must be good for the arthritis.
As I wind down my stay here I am still trying to find a good restaurant to sample some traditional cuisine. I did find a terrific place that serves open faced sandwiches, Duran Svendics. They even have caviar for less that $2, I was a little suspicious at first but it was actually very good (nutty and not too salty).
I am almost through with my eastern Europe jaunt. I'm glad I visited 3 cities because I got a good feel of the differences and similarities. These cities (and their people) have been through a lot especially in the last century but there is an optimism that being a part of the EU can bring prosperity and rebirth.
Tomorrow I fly to Greece!

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