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Published: September 20th 2018
We had a very comfortable stay at Ister Apartments in Esztergom. Tunde our host, was very friendly and helpful and had looked after us very well, keeping us supplied with fresh fruit and tomatoes from her garden. We set off at 10, on a not too strenuous day, about 60 km, that would allow us time to do a few excursions on route, taking ferry crossings on the river, and exploring the towns along the river. A quiet cycle lane hugging the Danube takes you out of Esztergom, but we had to take a short stretch of busy road, about 4.5k to our first ferry crossing to Szob (fare 900 forint, 450+450 for bike). Cycle lane follows the river through the beautiful Danube Bend where it breaks between steep mountainside and cliffs. At Nagymaros we took the ferry (hourly, again 900 forint) to the ancient town of Visegrád, important since Roman times and containing castles, roman ruins and relics. We explored the Royal Palace, then returned by ferry to Nagymaros, to continue our journey. At Vác the route includes a ferry to Saint Andra island (900 forint) then leaves the island by bridge to Tahitotfalu. The road south to Szentendre is
very busy, but we had no option but to share the road with heavy traffic returning to Budapest after their day trips to Danube resets. At Leanyfalu the route returns to the river, for a quiet ride into Szentendre. We stayed at the very comfortable Corner Panzio, and had a great Serbian style meal of grilled meats and sausage in the restaurant next door. Szentendre is a fascinating old village, of cobbled streets and medieval architecture, very busy at weekends, with lots of tourists arriving form Budapest to enjoy the river.
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