Greece - Amorgos Island

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For my solo week, I decided to explore the Greek Islands. I had no idea where to start during the planning phase, but my friend's friend recommended Amorgos. The more I read up on it, the more I realized this would be exactly what I needed. I wanted a place to relax, stay in a cave home, and go on some hikes, and Amorgos ticked all those boxes.

Ferry crossing

After leaving my sister and her family at the airport (returning the car to the same super enthusiastic guy was fun!), I got a taxi to the port of Piraeus. Another expensive ride... But the driver took me right to the exact location and I was able to hangout in a restaurant for lunch, hot chocolate, and wifi for a few hours until my boat arrived. It was so cool to see the giant ship pull in and the quiet port become alive with activity! I honestly did not know quite what to expect on how to approach, but there seemed to be a line forming near the back side of the boat. The cars in the ferry came off first, then they started loading the new cars, including service vehicles, dump trucks, fully loaded long beds, etc. Pretty cool actually. Finally, they started boarding the people. It was not the neatest line, but no one seemed to be pushing and shoving - it was pretty mellow. After realizing I could just take my big backpacks with me, I boarded, went up the escalator, and 'checked in' as I had booked a cabin for the 9 hour night journey. I had the room to myself, and it was amazing. But I did not want to spend the whole experience sleeping, so I went to the business class restaurant for a glass of beer and to watch us leave port. Then I walked up to the top deck and watched Athens recede in the background. I took a nap a little after, then came back out to the lounge for some chips and to watch at one of the ports, Paros, as we went through the same loading and unloading process. Then I returned to my room to read a book and wait to arrive at Amorgos.

Chora cave house

The airbnb owner sent a taxi to pick me up at the port of Aegiale. There was a driver that I thought may be me, but someone else approached him and was talking, plus the sign kind of looked like my name, but not really..... I realized later it was written in partly Greek letters! He was very nice though, found me, and drove me up the dark twisty roads to Chora, located in the approximate center of the island. I loved the night sky - Orion was so incredibly clear! So, we got to the small village around 4am and he helped me find my room, obviously he knew the owners, and they had left the key in the door, including a key to the separate outdoor bathroom. So, I walked in, fell immediately in love with my temporary apartment, and fell asleep!

The next morning, I was slightly hungry, but the town was very empty. First I walked up to the 'castle' behind my apartment, but while it had nice views, there was little to see or do there and I felt a bit strange. I found a little bakery where I got a ham pie which was ok, but slightly burned. I found a tiny grocery store where I got some chips and drinks, particularly juice and water. My owners had left a little set of rakija (raki) for me to taste (delicious!) and a large juice box. After 'breakfast' I put my juice and water in my backpack and made my way to my first hike!

Panagia Chozoviotissa

I walked through the little village white washed corridors to the other side of town where the hike to the cliffside monastery began. I passed an elementary school with kids playing and a couple of cafes with people enjoying hot drinks and breakfast. I felt very out of place! But the hike entrance was located at the top of the cliff with a flat area with park benches to admire the incredible view. I then walked to the path and made my way down the very well marked trail. I was surprised at how sunny and hot it was! As I approached the monastery grounds entrance after a mile, I saw there was a tour bus and a few cars, so while quiet, at least I would not be the only tourist. This path now continued up and up to the monastery. I caught up to an older lady, who was part Greek and part Jordanian, but lived in France, and we both were amazed at how hot it was. So we walked up together; she did not have water, which I had a lot of but.... Covid. When we got to the entrance she was wondering about attire. While she had the headscarf, she did not have the skirt that was required for women to enter - no trousers!!!! I had brought a kaftan with me to cover my clothes, so I lent her my pashmina as apparently a head scarf was not required and she was able to use it as a wrap.

As we entered, there was a large group of young women coming down (hen party?) and they were removing wraps, so I guess they could be provided. Not sure. We walked up to the first room where we were offered some cold water and a shot of raki while admiring the view and the interior. There was some historical context displayed as pictures and paintings, furniture, and such. Then we continued up to the chapel area and where the icon was located (no pictures here). We were given the history by an enthusiastic monk, who looked like a hippie. The woman sometimes had to translate for me and an Australian couple who joined us just as we arrived in the chapel. The monastery was built in the 11th century in honor of the Virgin Mary and to house an icon. Two monks currently live there and will for the rest of their lives. After he showed us some of the historical symbols and relics, we were free to enjoy the incredible views and then make our way out where we passed some men who were touching up the whitewashed walls.

I left the woman with my pashmina and made my way back to my trail. I decided not to go to the beach and the little chapel there because it was really too hot and I did not bring enough water with me. Walking up the cliffside was not too terrible, but it was quite hot, so I had to stop a few times. I saw the other woman joined by her friend as they made their way to the chapel. Once I got to the top, I made my way back to my apartment for a well deserved nap. Total hike: 6.5 miles.

Windmills

The windmills are located at the top of the hills above Chora. Not a difficult or long ascent, but some incredible views over the entire southern portion of the island and the town of Chora. Seriously, one of the best sunsets I have ever seen! It was so beautiful and my pictures really do not do it justice. I guess there used to be up to 18 windmills a century ago, but I think there are about a dozen now, in various states of disrepair. But it was so peaceful and lovely. I sat here for a while to watch the sun dip into the sea, with gorgeous colors that I hope I captured.

I returned to the town still admiring the sunset colors, but I was quite hungry and found one restaurant that.... well, it had the lights on and a guy was in the back washing dishes. I asked if they were open and he said yes. So, I went outside to sit a cute table while he placed my utensils and such. He had a limited menu of what was available, which was fine as I know it is offseason and I think I was literally the only tourist in town. So, I ordered the pork in lemon sauce with rice (which is what I wanted anyway) and a glass of wine. He brought it out so fast and I was like hmmmm... Sure enough, its as clearly leftovers, but it was very tasty. While eating and enjoying my book, a couple of guys joined him inside the restaurant. I guess they were practicing their music as I essentially got a free performance - it was very nice. Then he gave me a shot of raki at the end of my meal, and I enjoyed some more music.

Hike to Minoan Ruins

The next day I had planned another hike - after looking at multiple options the day before, I decided to make my way to the Minoan ruins on the west side of the island. So, I was able to easily find the path from the road coming down from Chora. It wound around the side of the hills with great views of the port town of Katapola and was actually a very pleasant walk along the trail. Once you got to the bottom, it was mostly walking along roads, but there were few cars. I got a little sidetracked as my gps did not quite match the road at one area, but it was still easy to find the way. Then I joined the road up the hill, very steep, stopping a couple of times for a break and drinking some juice, but great views as usual, passing a couple of small chapels along the way. There was a sign that clearly showed the way to the ruins and I walked along a short dirt road past a small hill, and soon after the road opened up and the ruins were located on the ruins directly in front of me. Honestly, there was not much to see. I was a bit disappointed as this is a very historical area that has been continually inhabited since the 11th century BC. Some of the ruins are pretty clear, but there was no information on what was what and it was clear there were many time periods that these ruins were part of. So, I made my way up to the top, got some incredible views of the sea and island, wandered around the ruins and that was about it. Still completely worth the hike! Just not much to do when I got there.

I then made my way down to get some food at the port - I was starving at this point! I was actually really, really craving a Greek salad. I walked through some more lovely narrow streets with the iconic doors, and walked along the port. A few cafes looked like maybe, maybe...., they were open, but I was clearly the outsider tourist! So, I walked to the other side of the port where I could see what looked like a hotel or something with a bistro out front, but opted for a small cafe in front of a store instead. The greek guy who I guess worked there (maybe!?!?) gave me a menu and I ordered eggs and ham on bread with iced tea. I don't know if I was just so hungry.... but it was delicious. Then I made my way to the trail which ascended to Chora on the other side of the hills. This was pure, narrow path the whole way up and was so peaceful! It took just over an hour to go about 3 miles and some lovely views. It was also noticeably cooler on this side of the island as opposed to my monastery hike; it was clear the clouds and mist essentially settled on this side so there was constant breeze and some cloud cover. Total Hike: 9.3 miles.

Day 3

My final day was a bit cool, windy, and overcast so I decided to take it easy and relax. I read my books, enjoyed a nice long hot shower in my cave shower (basically the whole reason I booked this particular apartment), went into the village center to get a hot chocolate where it seemed half the locals hung out, sat on the rooftop patio of my apartment, and snacked on my chips and juice. It was very chill. That evening, I walked back into the village center and found a restaurant which had seemed cute on my first day. So, I went in and there was a bartender, a chef, and a waitress (I guess, though the guy and girl were together so maybe they were all just hanging out). Anyway, I walked up the bartender lady and asked if they had food and she said, yes, but limited. She started by saying, "We have Greek salad, ...." "Stop - that's exactly what I want!" And it was sooooo good. I enjoyed my meal and made my way back home to have some raki and some of my left over homemade wine I had bought for 3 euros (apparently this is a thing - homemade wine in reused plastic bottles!). Then I packed and fell asleep to be ready for my early morning pick up to the ferry. Bye cave apartment - you were incredible!

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Stunning beauty of Greece
Your blog makes me want to go back.

[lexispence10]

Highly recommend
I would go back to this peaceful island in a heartbeat!

[DaveandIssy]

Amorgos
Loved reading this so soon after we’d been there ourselves. I loved doing some of the hikes, and Chora a real highlight, and how about that Monastery hanging off the cliff. I was very surprised we’d never heard of it before. Stunning!