Greece 21 - Pylos/sometimes you end somewhere you did not expect to end up/ Venetian and Turk cannons/ a square that reminded me of a french square .

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" At various points in our lives,or on a quest , and for reasons that often remain obscure , we are driven to make decisions which prove with hindsight to be loaded with meaning " Sri Swami Satchindananda.



Our holidays are a long time in the making. We start early with the planning to fit in with the time we have which is limited. Whilst I still have mudane work to contend with we have to be meticulous in our planning. We only have a certain amount of time and have to try to pack in as much as we can. We start off with the places that we consider must see and then work through the ones that seem worth a visit. Throw in train times under the tunnel, a visit to Athens and it all becomes very complicated. Unlike booking a flight, booking a hotel and getting on with it our holidays are fixed around routes. We don't want to back track . We need a route that flows. Hence clockwise round Greece. The first half before Athens was very much time tied . Since Athens we have found time to sit around and do nothing. If the mood takes us we can go off the beaten track and find little places we had no intention of visiting.

These are the little gems that make us smile like Cheshire Cats. Sally Sat Nag was programmed to head off for Pylos. Up the mountain she went following a route better suited to a car. Glenn had to drive her to perfection to get round the winding and increasingly narrow roads. Up the hills and down the dales became the order of the day as we climbed up a bit, came down a bit before ending up in Pylos. Pylos turned out to be one of those places that although obscure had a charm that we would not have missed for all the world..

Pylos was originally known as Avarino after the Avar tribes who populated the area. To the west a castle which we skirted as we tried in vain to find the marina parking. We could see the marina with the small navy ship in town and cars parked there with a lonely motorhome joining them. Could we get to it? No Sally Sat Nag said turn left - too narrow for us. Sally Sat Nag tried again . This time road works blocked the road which would have taken our size of vehicle . We continued downhill to the centre of town. A roundabout but not as we know it . Huge with a plane tree in the middle . Under the plane tree seats tumbling out of the many cafes. The townsfolk were out in force sitting around probably laughing at idiots like us trying to get to the marina . Get there we did though and parking was perfect . We parked up close to a small Panama registered ship and we ambled to the centre of town with the square which had a french feel. It felt cosmopolitan., It felt as if we could have been in the south of France.

We did what any sensible person would do. Sit and order a wild cherry drink and a couple of espressos. Service is southern Europe speed slow. Slow works though. It gives you chance to people watch, to decide where to go next and gives you chance to relax. All the town must have been here drinking and socialising. We cannot do this in grey old Britain . Even in the height of summer it just does not have the feel of Southern Europe laid back.

Pylos is simply beautiful with its hillside alleys , its waterside streets with benches to sit down on and contemplate life. The main square the Platia Trion Navarhon has at its head a war memorial . We headed for it , two cannons flanked it. One Turkish and one Venetian reflecting the diverse culture of the place and the proximity of the Battle of Navarino. The statue commemorated the three generals involved in the battle. Codrington the British general, Von Heyden the Russian and finally De Rigny the french general. Apparently you can hire a glass bottom boat from here to sail out to see the remains on the sea bed of the Turkish fleet defeated at the battle .

It is the sort of place you fall upon, don't expect to like but fall in love with its quaintness and its life. School children probably 6th formers or even university students sat about enjoying their youth. Old men sat talking . The wifes sat out separately discussing whatever Greek old wives discuss .

We were sorry to leave the place but we were still heading for home. Navarino Bay just down the road is our next stop. We can see it over the headland. Glenn still coughs and splutters and we wonder if he has bronchitis or a chest infection. He has at times found it hard going especially in the raw heat which never gives an inch. Even when the wind blows it remains in the low 30's. Shade is not easy to find .

Walking back to Suzy we ask each other what are our best memories. Do you know what ? There are so many we couldnt actually tell you or pinpoint one more interesting than another . This has been a real adventure which we don't want to stop. It is easy to understand how many of our race head south here for the winter and early spring . It has such a charm and a warmth we fail to find anywhere else .

OUr journey out of town was rather fraught. Up a street blocked with roadworks which meant reversing back. A helpful old man came to show us how to get out of the maze that was Pylos. Where else would that happen I wonder? We got stuck up a narrow street and had to do a ten point turn to negotiate the corner . eventually though we got onto the main road above the town with the bay to our right . We headed for our stop for the night Camping Navarino Bay . Big Quiz - Glenn is winning . Bah Humbug I need a cookery round and a lot of luck . .

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