Peloponnese Wanderers


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August 5th 2015
Published: August 5th 2015
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The main street of MonemvasiaThe main street of MonemvasiaThe main street of Monemvasia

This street has remained for vendors or traders since it was founded 15 centuries ago. Today it has restaurants, jewelers, wine tastings and gift shops.
We flew from Samos to Athens, because a one hour flight was preferable to the 9 hour ferry that would have chewed up a whole day. So after a morning of swimming and recovering from the BBQ and booze the night before we arrived at a cheap hotel in a less appealing part of town and had gyros for dinner before retiring for the night. Next morning we caught a bus south. No need to see any of the ancient wonders that Athens has to offer, as we did all of that when we last visited in 2005 and I doubt it would have held Nathan’s attention for very long. Our next destination would be Monemvasia on the Peloponnese peninsula.

Monemvasia is a very large rock, connected to the mainland by a small bridge. On the south side of the rock is an old castle that was first built in the 6th century and has been turned into a most captivating tourist town. As you wander the streets of this restored ancient citadel it is easy to imagine that you have been taken back centuries in time to a fortified stronghold high above the placid waters below, but with the
Main square of MonemvasiaMain square of MonemvasiaMain square of Monemvasia

Built in 19th Century, the bell tower is one of the newest additions.
advantage of free Wi-Fi in every taverna and hotel. Its name in Greek means ‘one entrance’ and that is apt given the slim causeway/bridge from which it can be accessed by land.

There is a rocky swimming platform called Portello, which used to be the gate to the sea for incoming and outgoing merchandise. As this was a wealthy trading town from Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman times there would have been many ships weighing anchor at this port. When the Islamic Ottomans took over the well-established town in the 15th century (or there abouts) they disallowed the making of alcohol and this ended their highly sought after wine productions. The wine was known as Malvasia, which is the Italian name for Monemvasia. The industry was lost until last century, when the original species of grapes were sourced and the ancient techniques relearned. The result is the best Greek wine we have tasted. We tried some of the whites, but would have loved to try a sweet dessert wine from the region. I hope we can find it when we get home.

We also found a nice beach for Nathan to play at on the other side of the
Looking back from the waterLooking back from the waterLooking back from the water

One good reason to get a waterproof camera.
bridge. He had luck and made friends with two Canadian families that had 3, 5 and 9 year old daughters. From this beach the monolith of Monemvasia is an imposing edifice that you keep turning your head to have just another look at.

When it was time to leave Monemvasia, Leanne and I really regretted not hiring a car from Athens and just driving where we want, when we want. Instead we had to catch the 2 hour bus back to Sparta from where we needed to catch at least two more buses to our next destination of Kardamili. On the first bus Nathan got motion sickness again. Fortunately he had a sleep after that and soldiered on like a trooper after he woke. Whilst waiting at the bus station in Sparta, we started thinking about other options like car hire from Sparta. However the only car rental place was closed as all of their cars were hired. So Leanne looked at other towns in the area and did a bit of googling to find that Gythio might just suit us and be easier to get to. So off to Gythio we went, arriving by early afternoon.

At
Mealtime, looking over the main squareMealtime, looking over the main squareMealtime, looking over the main square

The main square is called 'canon', because of the canon left on display in the middle. As usual, Nathan sat on it.
Gythio we found that there was ‘no room at the inn’, but as often happens to us, a friendly stranger made some calls and found perhaps the last place to stay on Mavrovouni beach, (the main attraction) and a few kilometres out of town. We ended up at Thirides Beach Resort, which is four star and much more comfortable than we are used to of late. We even had a proper shower that pours down on your head with a sliding glass door to step in and out of; not the hand held hose type that sprays the bathroom more than the person in the shower. By 2pm we were swimming in their pool and very content. But by 3pm the pool police came around and shut it down. The reason they gave us was ‘siesta time’. Everyone was meant to go off and have a nap now. No splashing and having fun until 5.30. We later heard that some unhappy neighbours were responsible for this curfew.

The following day we obeyed the pool hours of operation but we had to make arrangements for our last two nights in Greece as the 4 star hotel was booked out on those nights. We found that hiring a car was as hard as finding a hotel. This is the busiest time of the year. We thought we found one for 24 hours but when we went to collect it, they told us we needed international driver’s licences (apparently the RACV issued pieces of paper are worth more than Government issued Passports & Drivers licenses!). We have never had this problem before. So we were stuck again!

We found that there was a bus to a place called Diros, which has an impressive cave system full of stalagmites and stalactites. You move through the subterranean system in a boat for most of the journey and this was the highlight of our stay in Gythio and a welcome relief from the heat of the day. We went back to our new accommodation in Gythio town, a hot and noisy but spacious apartment away from the beach and pools that Nathan craves. However, we found some play grounds that are popular with local families after 7pm when the temperature drops. We are seeing him develop in so many ways and now he can use the swing by himself. We don’t need to push anymore. Woo Hoo!!!!

In contrast to Monemvasia, Gythio is devoid of historical and cultural interest. The only site of any note is an ancient theatre which is fenced off and beside an army base, where a machine gun carrying soldier eyed us with suspicion. We would have been happier to leave Greece earlier and use the days somewhere else, but if that is all we have to complain about, we are doing pretty well. Bring on Romania!! We catch two buses, a taxi, a train and a plane to get there tomorrow!

The Greece – Australia connection

3 Observations.

1. There are a lot of Gum trees in Greece but no Koalas.

2. Everyone we have spoken to has an uncle living in Melbourne.

3. Most often heard song: Chandelier by Sia. I’ve also heard Florence and the Machine more than once.


Additional photos below
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View from GyfiraView from Gyfira
View from Gyfira

Gyfira is on the mainland. It has a rocky beach, which we enjoyed a few times.
Canadian friendsCanadian friends
Canadian friends

We met these kids at the beach. They had a kayak to play with.


6th August 2015

Green With Envy
Hi Guys. We hadn't forgotten you, we have been recovering from our own little sojourn in England and France. Spent the first four days in the UK in St Andrew's Hospital with double pneumonia which put a temporary brake on things as I was/am still on chemo and that got the natives a bit excited. In any event we had a lovely time in both countries. I must say I would love to have an extended holiday such as yours, leisurely touring in the sun. The blog reads well and now that we have caught up we look forward to each installment. Travel safely and most of, have fun now, while you can. Warm wishes.
7th August 2015

Nice to hear from you!
Hi Brian, Glad to hear that you are on the mend and still enjoying travelling. Give our love to Margie. Take care.
6th August 2015

Fantastic!
Love your blog Jon, it's almost like you're reading it aloud! It was great to learn a little about another part of Greece, looks great in your photos. Looking forward to hearing about Romania. Safe travels!

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