Greece 14 - Epidaurus/a really big theatre with fantastic sound effects/the thriller in Manilla

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We feel as if we are half way through our holiday . I don't actually think we are. Our Greek clocks feel as if they going on a go slow. We are seeing so much of the country that time should fly by. It doesn't. Each day is a real joy and we keep feeling it cannot carry on this way forever. At some point we must get fed up. At some point we must feel like coming home. It doesn't seem to be happening. We are enjoying every moment. The sun continues to shine on us. The nights are hot. Everything is just wonderful. We keep thinking things have got to go downhill at some point. Downhill though is a misnomer if ever there was one, Downhill does not apply here. Every archaelogical site requires a lot of going uphill and not a lot of going downhill. Months of swimming a mile nearly every day, working out on the treadmill, the stepper or the exercise bike have not prepared me for all this climbing and scrambling round historical sites.

Epidaurus - it is one of those words that makes me smile. OUr Michelin guide tells us that Ancient Epidaurus is elegant , perfect in design and cannot be overstated. A jewel in the crown of Ancient Greece. We are off to see the theatre. Before we left I started another book properly Henry Tudor beating the life out of Richard III Another historical book about battles to add to the book bingo I am trying to complete.

Suzy did her usual good job of climbing the many hills to the site. Rolling hills carpeted in pines and with oleanders just starting to come into bloom. The car park was massive and was full. For once we found ourselves on site at almost dinner time. This of course meant the one thing we hate - crowds. Crowds and busloads. Schoolkids by the bus load. They screamed and shouted to each other even though they were only inches away from each other. This is the first place we have really felt outnumbered by visitors. There was no peace nor quietness to be had here today. It should have been peaceful and quiet as the Epidaurus was known to be a centre of healing. Healing of the body and the mind by exercising and relaxation. Bathing and interlectual pursuits. The site actually opens to the public from 7.45. I cannot imagine any historical site back home opening at such an early hour.

We only really wanted to see the Theatre. Our guide books give it three stars which make it worthy of a visit in anyones book. The story that books tell are of a place outstanding in its own beauty. Its setting is harmonious. We walked up to it . Is there any other way but up in Greece? Up steps of which there were many and ramps. All leading to voices in the distance. We knew we were heading in the right direction due to the noise, the shouting and the loud talking. As we rounded the corner we could see and hear would be thespians standing in the centre reciting their little speeches to someone up in the gods. The voices carry upwards and the accoustics are some of the best in Greece. Even now it is used for outdoor concerts and plays through the summer months. It is said if you drop a pin in the centre circle it can be heard quite clearly at the back of the last row of the theatre. No doubt that is true but with so many pins being dropped metaphorically it was impossible to tell.

The sight that greeted us was to be fair imposing and awe inspiring. Row after row of white marble seating cut into the natural hillside. The theatre had been designed by Polykleistos the Younger in the 4th century BC. Originally there were only 34 rows built into the hillside . Once the Romans came they added another 21 rows which meant that the theatre could accomodate 14,000 spectators. The rows are divided into the upper and lower levels with a circular section at the bottom to house the orchestra. Marble steps lead to the top .Some of the better seats in the house were red marble and looked all the world like arm chairs . The cheaper white flat seats were for the less well off. We climbed to the top. Some adventurous and much younger folks ran to the top. Its a long way down when you sit at the top. The views across the valley are spectacular and the folks in the bottom looked like ants. Going back down was a little easier than climbing up.

For dinner we stopped at the cafe at the bottom. We wished we hadn't in the end. Our waiter too attentive and gushing. Too over the top making us squirm a touch. I ordered a fresh orange juice and picked a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. Glenn an Italian sandwich . The choice was pretty poor. The waiter asked "Where from". I wish we had said Wales as that probably would have stopped him in his tracks . However I said Sheffield - " Wednesday or United " Neither we said . "I play soccer on the X Box - I know Sheffield" I learn English that way. He left us muttering and descended on a family coming in - "Where from?" Manilla came the reply . "Ah pretty mama from Manilla". The elderly lady smiled to me and inwardly squirmed. He left singing and shouting Thriller in Manilla. We beat one hasty retreat after paying the bill.

We headed that evening for our stop for the night Camping Palaelogia in between Mystras and Sparti. We picked this site over the over Camping Castle View for no particular reason. WE missed it first time round and sailed past. On our return a jovial large gentleman - the owner jumped out into the road in front of Suzy. Hitting our brakes we opened the window . "Camping " he said "You stay here my camp - very nice". His camp was next to an old petrol station long closed . His old van that seemed hardly roadworthy was painted with the camping name. He ran a rather down and out cafe/cum small shop together with the campsite. I got out to register . He took no details , issued me with the WiFi code on the tiniest bit of paper he could find and said "You park anywhere - my campsite is lovely . Very nice campsite" OK we get the picture but somehow we dont think it is going to be quite up to Camping Club standards . There was a restaurant but it looked a bit too cheap and nasty to bother with. Rough and ready with the emphasis on rough. He looked as if he had never been to the dentist and that put me off any food anyway. "Lovely field - lovely campsite " he shouted after us as we drove through to his back field . The only other van there was a big Dutch Cathargo, he told me there was a swimming pool but no water in it . Yet another example of the state that Greece appears to be in. He and his wife had spent half a day at Mystras and were going back again in the morning. They told us there was too much to see in just one go. Too much climbing and the weather was too hot. Some other Brits turned up later. The site was lovely but old and run down. The showers were in need of an urgent upgrade and I could only get out icy cold water. Not the worse site again we have been to but perhaps if we come again we would try Castle View just up the road .

Tomorrow is monastery day again - this time frescoes until they come out of your ears.

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