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Published: October 27th 2008
Warning: This blog is very long and if you didn’t go on the trip, reading it could be worse than sitting through your grandparent’s summer photo album over a hot cuppa. Read only if you dare (or are completely bored at work and wish to waste the rest of the day….).
GERMANY
12/08/08 Frankfurt - Rothenburg
This 2 week long road trip had been in the pipeline for quite some time; so you can imagine the excitement before flying out from Gatwick, London to Frankfurt, Germany. After a delayed flight, we finally arrived (all be it 2 hours late) to meet Struen and Alan in the airport. We went straight to Europcar to pick up our brand new Volvo S70 D5. It proved to be a great car - very comfortable, and extremely fuel efficient. But we didn’t just drive out and hit the open road…..oh no. We drove for 5 minutes and then hit the mother of all traffic jams. For over an hour we didn’t even move! So we were quite delayed into our first destination - Rothenberg au de Tauber.
We checked into a little B&B called the Pension Becker at about 7:30pm and
Our wheels for the journey
Alan organised our wheels - The Volvo V70 D5 - leather, cruise, etc etc. Nice for a long trip like this one. When we started it had 1km on the clock. A few more by the time Alan dropped it off!then headed straight out for a meal. Our first meal was huge! We had big traditional German meals consisting of potato dumplings, sauerkraut and various meats. The meals were so big that they almost beat Stacy!
13/08/08 Rothenburg - Heidelberg - Enzklosterle (Black Forest)
We woke to a beautiful day, and there was no mucking around. We were straight to breakfast by 7:30am and out the door well before 9am. Rothenburg is an old medieval walled city located on a plateau overlooking the Tauber River, in the region of Bavaria. We thought the best thing to do first would be a walk on the tops of the walls around the town. After the adventure around the walls of the city we strolled through the beautiful cobblestone streets, and enjoyed looking through some of the remarkable little stores (bakery’s, cafes, and Christmas shops). Stacy and Erin then ventured up the first of many climbs to the top of the towns bell tower, whilst Struen and Alan chose to avoid the steps and enjoy the markets in the square. The views from the top revealed the small town surrounded by green countryside and the Tauber River. We left Rothenburg by
about midday and hit the road for Heidelberg. On the way we stopped for a little picnic on side of the road. By mid-afternoon we arrived in Heidelberg.
Heidelberg lies on the river Neckar at the point where it leaves the narrow valley in the Odenwald to flow into the Rhine 20 kilometres later. We walked around town for a while and then decided to head up to Heidelberg Schloss (the castle). The view from here allowed us to see the city, and the river flowing through it. So after our 2 hour visit, it was back into the car, for a beautiful drive through the Black Forest. Whilst driving through the forest Stacy luckily managed to dodge a motorcyclist that was drifting wayward onto our side of the road - it was really a very near miss! That night we stayed at the ‘Berghof’ B&B in Enzklosterle. After settling over a couple of drinks in the garden overlooking the valley, we went for dinner. We decided to play German roulette whilst ordering dinner as the menu was only in German. Considering we didn’t know what we were getting, we all had nice meals!
14/08/08 Enzklosterle - Baden
Baden - Freudenstadt - Freiburg
As it was early in the trip Stace and Erin found some motivation to go for a morning walk/run to take in some fresh country air. After breakfast we took off and headed for Baden-Baden.
Baden-Baden is a little town in Baden-Württemberg, Germany. It’s located on the western foothills of the Black Forest, and on the banks of the Oos River. The most interesting thing about this town is that in both World Wars, Baden-Baden escaped destruction, and after World War II, Baden-Baden became the headquarters of the French forces in Germany and the site of a displaced persons camp. After staying here for an hour or so, we headed to Freudenstadt for lunch.
Freudenstadt is set upon a high plateau at the east edge of the Black Forest. It’s also well-known for its fresh air and gardens. Its city centre is also famous as the largest market place in Germany. We took time here to make sandwiches in the central marketplace/gardens. The whole time we were harassed by bees that were fighting us for our lunch! They were all over us, eating our cheese, sandwiches and crawling into our drinks! After
wandering about the town and making a couple of clothing purchases, we headed for Freiburg.
After a hectic day we finally arrived in Freiburg (the western edge of the Black Forest) where we would stay for the night - but not before some more sightseeing! We explored town and visited Munster Church (where the bells were chiming) which is in the centre of town. Whilst in the heart of the town we found a nice little restaurant for dinner.
SWITZERLAND
15/08/08 Freiburg - Interlaken, Switzerland
An early escape from Freiburg meant we arrived in Interlaken, Switzerland by lunch time. It was pouring with rain which was really disappointing as we couldn’t see the snow capped mountains. We found our hotel (The Lazy Falken) and checked in. For our 50 euro’s per person we were expecting a little more than the dark and dirty backpackers that we were greeted with. Accommodation aside, this town was amazing.
Interlaken is located on the Aare River and between Lake Brienz to the east and Lake Thun to the west in the area called Bödeli. The town takes its name from its geographical position between the lakes (in Latin inter
Freudenstadt
A beautiful little town which is swarming with bees in the spring (they wanted our lunch more than we did!) lacus). The city is surrounded by steep spectacular mountains, some of which are snow-capped all year round. The distinctive vibrant aqua colour of the water (from glacier melt) also adds to the visual treat this town provides.
In the afternoon we headed to the highest building we could find (The Metropole) to take in the views. We took a stroll through the streets, taking in the sites and buying some souvenirs for friends and family. One thing we found out very quickly was how expensive this town was! Our accommodation was expensive (and happened to be the worst accommodation we had all trip), shopping was expensive, and the dining too was very pricey. So we searched long and hard for a well priced restaurant - we ended up finding a great Italian place for dinner.
By 11pm we were all shattered. So it was back to the hostel for some sleep (or so we thought). We got back, settled into bed, to be awoken shortly by very, very loud, drunk-man karaoke. And it went on, and on, and on, and on……till 4am!
16/08/08 Interlaken
This day started badly, but ended up being the most exciting and
Freiburg Münster - Germany
It is the only Gothic church tower in Germany that was completed in the Middle Ages (1330), and miraculously, has lasted until the present, surviving the bombing raids of November 1944. spectacular day of our entire trip. We woke by 6:30am and got to breakfast early so we could make the most of the day. We got downstairs to be met by a staff member who was completely ‘frazzled’ - ‘drunk as a skunk’ - ‘jober as a sudge’. He was so drunk he couldn’t even lift his head to speak! But that was only the start….. We saw breakfast. No eggs, no bacon, no beans - but half-frozen, wet, and stale bread, 2 types of dodgy cereal, and a toaster that produced ‘broast’ (one half toast, the other, bread!). So it wasn’t the wholesome meal we were wanting, but the day was soon to improve.
The bad weather of the previous day had lifted. It was the first sunny day Interlaken had had in 2 weeks! And it just so happened that it was the only opportunity we were going to get to go up to Jungfrau. Struen and Alan had arranged for the four of us to head to the “Top of Europe” as Stacy’s 31st birthday present.
Getting to Jungfraujoch is a real adventure. The trip takes three different trains to get to the top. The
Paragliding in Interlaken
The scenery was amazing in this town. The paragliders just added to the specticle. first leg is from Interlaken. This is a standard style train. The second train is the first of the cogwheel-type railways to deal with the extreme gradients. This leg takes you to Kleine Scheidegg (altitude) 2061m which is at the foot of the notorious Eiger North Wall. This is a spectacular site. From here the Jungfrau Railway climbs to the station at Eigergletscher, well known for its mountain restaurant and polar dog kennels. The trip continues through the Eiger tunnel to the stations at Eigerwand and Eismeer, with a five minute halt at each. Here we took in the sites from observation windows that were cut right into the alpine rock face. Finally we arrived on the Jungfraujoch (altitude 3454m), in the heart of the glacier. The Great Aletsch Glacier, at 22 km, is the longest ice-stream in the Alps; and from this high, the views extend as far as the summits of the Vosges Mountains in France and the Black Forest in Germany. Whilst we couldn’t see as far as this, the view was still clear, and absolutely spectacular.
We spent most of the day at the top, but Stacy and Struen were feeling the effects of altitude
The dam walls in Interlaken - Switzerland
The water is a crystal/aqua colour due to the glacier melt. - as were many people up there! There was even a kid who straight fainted at the top of a set of stairs! Thud!
That night we searched high and low to find a restaurant that served traditional Swiss chocolate fondue. But whilst the search was long, it was certainly worth it! We polished off a platter of fruit and a swimming pool worth of melted Swiss chocolate. Yum!
AUSTRIA
17/08/08 Interlaken - Innsbruck
Today we left Interlaken, destined for Innsbruck. It was to be our second longest day in the car - 4 ½ hours! We eventually arrived at our B&B, which was located 20 minutes walk outside of town. We quickly unpacked the car, before heading into the old town.
Innsbruck’s medieval town has a warren of streets and covered walk ways. In the centre of the town, is the famous ‘Goldenes Dachl’ (Golden Roof) which was built by Emperor Maximilian I in the 16th century as a display of wealth, and has 2657 gilded copper tiles. The Stadtturm (City Tower), which was built around the 1440’s, is also situated in the town square. All four of us climbed the 150 steps to
the top of the tower and were rewarded with sweeping views of the old town and the surrounding mountains.
As Erin and Stacy were keen to see the famous Bergisel Ski Jump, we left Struen and Alan to explore the town. We boarded a tourist bus to take us the short journey to this state-of-the-art ski jump that overlooks Innsbruck. This ski jump, which opened in 2002, was deigned by Iraq-born architect Zaha Hadid, and built at a cost of €15 million. Whilst we took the funicular up to the top of the viewing platform, we took the 455 steps back down!
After spending ample time at the ski jump, and having a drink on the viewing platform, we took the tourist bus back down into town. However, we boarded the wrong bus, and it took us the wrong way! However, it wasn’t all bad; we got to listen to a brief (yet somewhat dodgy) commentary about the sites along the way. We eventually met up with Struen and Alan for dinner at a local pub in the old town, before heading back to the B&B in the rain (and no - we didn’t have umbrellas!!)
GERMANY
The 3rd and final train to the top of Jungfrau - Switzerland
This is the highest train station in the world at 3454 metres 18/08/08 Innsbruck - Berchtesgaden
Today we left Innsbruck and drove the windy country roads on our way to Berchtesgaden. On the way, we stopped in ‘Walchsee’ (on the border between Germany and Austria) for a coffee at ‘Café See La Vie’. The café is on the edge of a beautiful lake, which boasts the backdrop of the Alps. We were fortunate to see some swans and their signets gliding along the water. After relaxing by the lake, it was time to hit the road again.
We arrived at our B&B ‘Gebirgshausl’ in Berchtesgaden and ate lunch in the sun on the hotel balcony. Following this, we went to Kehlsteinhaus, also known as ‘Eagles Nest’. Kehlsteinhaus was an official 50th birthday present for Adolf Hitler. Nicknamed Eagle's Nest by a French diplomat, it was meant to be a retreat for Hitler and a place for him to entertain visiting dignitaries. We took the incredibly scary bus trip up to the top of the mountain, holding our breath as the bus driver navigated the bus around 3 very tight hair pin bends. The bus took us up as far as it could, leaving us to take a 120m lift
Struen & Alan
at Kleine Scheidegg, altitude 2061 metres, at the foot of the notorious Eiger North Wall. through solid rock, the rest of the way up. When we stepped outside, we found that we were nestled amongst the Alps with breath takings views all around us. After spending about an hour taking in the views, trying to capture the perfect photograph and guzzling down a beer (or two), it was time to brave the scary bus trip back! Erin and Stacy decided to explore the town before we all settled on the balcony for dinner. Before heading to bed, we tried an interesting ‘hot chilli chocolate’ drink in the bar.
19/08/08 Berchtesgaden
The Konigssee is a beautiful alpine lake situated 5km south of Berchtesgaden. We took a guided cruise on the lake stopping at St Bartholoma and Obersee. After taking the time to explore the wilds of the Berchtesgaden National Park, we took the boat back and had lunch at Konigssee Seelande. Stacy decided that the tempting water was an opportunity not to be missed and took a quick dip in the icy waters. As the day was sunny and warm, Stacy was not alone - the lake appeared to be a popular swimming place amongst the locals.
We spent the afternoon wandering around
Stace & Erin
at Kleine Scheidegg, altitude 2061 metres, at the foot of the notorious Eiger North Wall.
town before deciding to have a late afternoon picnic. With cheese and wine in hand, we walked a short distance from the B&B and found a peaceful place alongside an aqua coloured brook. Again, the water proved enticing and it wasn’t long before Stacy was braving the incredibly cold water. It provided the rest of us with much amusement as we watched Stacy battle to submerge himself, gasping for breath and slowly turning a bluish colour (we sound cruel, but it was his hair-brained idea!).
After Stacy spent at least ½ hour in a hot shower bringing his body temperature back up, we again ate dinner on the balcony before retiring for the night.
AUSTRIA
20/08/08 Berchtesgaden - Salzburg
Today was supposed to be the shortest leg of our journey. Unfortunately the 28 minute drive to Salzburg turned into 2 hours, thanks to traffic and road works. Our hotel was located in beautiful countryside approximately 10km outside the city of Salzburg. After finding our quaint B&B, we headed into town. Our first stop was Mozart’s birthplace (Geburtshaus) and home (Wohnhaus). These places only cover his early years before he left town in 1780, aged 24.
At lunch time, we found a restaurant recommended by our ‘travel bible’ (Europe on a Shoesting), called ‘Wilder Mann’. This restaurant serves traditional Austrian food and did not disappoint! After lunch we explored the town before heading to the ‘Augustiner Braustubl’ which is a huge hill-side warren of beer halls (yet another recommendation by our ‘bible). Here the beer is served in generously sized ‘ceramic mugs’.
All feeling exhausted, we settled in for a quiet night in front of the Beijing Olympics (in German of course!)
21/08/08 Salzburg
We woke up to a nice cold shower at our B&B. That certainly got our day started with a rush! We headed into town to do our own ‘Sound of Music’ tour. We visited:
-Residenz Square and Residenz Fountain, where Maria sings ‘I Have Confidence’.
-The Domplatz (Cathedral Square).
-St Peterskirche. In this abbey’s grounds is the entrance to the Katakomben (Catacombs).
-Stift Nonnberg, where Georg Von Trapp and Maria were married.
-Schloss Mirabell. The gardens are the main attraction of this palace. These gardens also featured in the movie, where Maria and children sing ‘Do-Re-Mi’.
-The gazebo where Liesl and Rolf sing ‘I am 16 going on
The view from the 'Top of Europe' - Jungfrau
Alan captured this sensational shot as this plane flew under us! You can see the trekkers making their way down the glacier in the background. 17’, which is now located in Hellbrunn Palace Park (previously it was located in Leopoldskron Palace Gardens). Whilst we were here we also visited the trick fountains in the gardens.
After our ‘self-guided tour’, Struen and Alan had coffee and strudel whilst Stacy and Erin had lunch in the old city. We then met up to catch the funicular to the ‘Festung Hohensalzburg’ (a Fortress on the mountain above Salzburg). Many of the Archbishop-Princes who ruled Salzburg lived in this fortress. That night we had dinner at Stiegl-Keller which had lovely views across the city. This is where we saw two nuns drinking beer with a man (two nuns, one man, and plenty of alcohol….was this a joke? Are nuns allowed to get drunk and flirt with boys? So many questions…).
ITALY
22/08/08 Salzburg - Venice
We departed Salzburg early as we had a six hour drive ahead of us. We were bound for Venice! We arrived mid-afternoon and checked into the Hotel Delfino, just outside of Venice. We took a bus over to Venice, and then jumped on the ‘number 1’ vaporetti (canal boat) from Piazzale Roma to Piazzetta San Marco. The canals were just
The viewing platform only accessible from the train tunnel.
It is cut into the cliff face giving amazing views across the Aletsch Glacier (a 22 km ice-stream - the longest in the Alps). buzzing with boats, packed with people. The water was not too dirty either. Interestingly, most of the lower floors were vacant due to the water lapping into the apartments. We later found out that throughout the 20th century, relative sea-level in Venice increased by more than nine inches due to a combination of sinking land and rising seas.
Our first ride on the vaporetti took us under the three famous bridges that cross the Grande Canal - Rialto, Academia and the Scalzi. After about 45 minutes we arrived at Piazza San Marco. After wandering around for an hour or so we decided to go up the bell tower to get oriented with Venice’s geography. Funnily enough though, we couldn’t see the canals from up there! It was just a sea of old buildings. But the view nevertheless, was spectacular.
That night we had dinner by the Rialto Bridge, strolled through the town, and even took the time to have a few drinks by the canal (whilst being bitten by mosquitoes)!
23/08/08 Venice
Palazzo Ducale. This was the official residence of the Doges and seat of the Republics Government. It also housed municipal officials and Venice’s prisons.
We then took a ferry across to Murano, the home of Venetian glass. We toured a factory and watched a glassblower create a horse. Amazingly it only took him less than 2 minutes.
By lunchtime it was quite warm (at least 30 degrees) so we decided to take some time to sit in a garden for a 30 minute break. After regaining some energy we all walked to Academia. From here Stacy and Erin took the last opportunity to take a Gondola ride. Struen and Alan opted out of the gondola ride, and instead took in the ambience of Venice’s back streets and canals. So Stacy bought some Champagne and bargained with Mr Gondala for the best deal. The trip took us past Mozarts house, Rilato Bridge, the Opera House and the oldest house in Venice (900 years old).
That night we all found a nice little Trattoria for our last good hearty Italian dinner.
24/08/08 Venice - London
Following breakfast, we waved farewell to Struen and Alan who were continuing on their road trip. Sadly, it was time for us to head home. We trekked in to the bus station and caught a bus to
Sufferring from the cold and altitude
Stacy and Erin recovering on the way back down from Jungfrau the airport. Unfortunately, we were in for a long trip home - flight followed by bus, train, bus…. We arrived home feeling a mixture of fatigue and exhilaration. We had once again experienced amazing sights and cultures!
A big thank you to Alan for organising an incredible road trip, leaving no stone unturned (that is for sure!). Thanks to Struen for being such a great travelling companion. It was wonderful to share this experience with you both!
Note: If you have read this far, you must be our parents, or a very bored individual with no life…
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non-member comment
Too much luck
You guys have far too good a life... It's just not fair.!! Seriously though... it looks like an amazing trip and you guys seem to be having a ball based in Ol' Blighty... It'll be good to catch up if/when you get home!