Baltic States - I miss you already

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A BIG thank you to all those that prayed and wished for a temper-tantrum free bus trip from Riga to Klaipeda. All went well, and smoothly, although admittedly there was some trepidation. When I arrived at the bus station there were already 3 bicyles there... What's my plan B? Oh, that's right, I don't have a Plan B. And because I did not have a Plan B I was beginning to think that not only would I have to convince the bus driver to take my bicycle, but that I would also have to convince the other bike riders that I deserved to be on the bus too. I'm so glad I didn't need to grovel. I really don't like grovelling. I think it doesn't become me.

As luck would have it, the fellow cyclists were a German couple who talked to the bus driver about getting the bikes on the bus and helped me get my bicycle in order to pack into the bus. And the other cyclist was a Latvian who was taking the ferry to Sassnitz that night. So all four of us managed it without having to pay any extra. Thanks Mr Bus Driver. Had there been a 5th cyclist though I don't know if we would have been so lucky. We filled up one side of the baggage compartment with four so it may have turned into a cat fight. Lucky we didn't need to go there.

The bus trip itself was pretty uneventful although there was a group of Aussies/Kiwis/Canadians on board who were on an Intrepid tour through the Baltics. Nice bunch of people with a tour leader that I am very grateful to. A ten minute break half way through the journey to run around at the bus station to go to the toilet and pick up something to eat is not much. I prioritised - toilet first (lucky I still had some Lithuanian coins to open the toilet door with), food second. A handful of sausage and 2 (stale) croissants (unfortunately I didn't realise they had chocolate fillings) was the only food option available and that was my 10 minutes up. I ran back to the bus to see aforementioned tour leader speaking to the bus driver. If it wasn't for her I wonder if the bus would have left without me. I was the last one on and everyone was waiting for me, staring (or was that glaring?) at me as I got back on. I took right on 10 minutes - not a minute more, not a minute less but still felt guilty for it.

Do I need to say that it was pouring on arrival in Kiel? No, probably not. Do I need to say that there were roadworks as well on the way to the ferry terminal with no signs to indicate that I was still travelling on the right road to get to my intended destination? No, probably not. And do I even need to mention that I was yet again grappling with having wet clothes and wet gear? No.

The ferry ride itself was as uneventful as the bus ride. I had the good fortune of meeting Albert and Inge in the Klaipeda last time I was there who told me a little about the amenities of the ferry so I was prepared. Find place to roll out the rollmat and sleeping bag, check, pack towel and change of clothes for shower the next day, check, have some left over Lithuanian money for food, check. All in all, everything went according to plan. I was one of the lucky ones to grab some floor space for a good (?) night's sleep (honestly, how anyone is expected to sleep on those reclining seats I'll never know, a shower the following morning to get the sleep goo out of the eyes and make you feel human again and a day spent in the restaurant eating. Yes, all went according to plan.

And on arrival, I was very, very fortunate to have Reinhard come to pick me up. No need to grapple with maps, tents, trains for a couple of weeks. Now, holed up in Emsdetten, given a beautiful room overlooking tree tops and well, enjoying being in bicycle friendly Germany. Went to a wonderful 50th birthday party last night - happy birthday Fritz and thanks for allowing me to join in on the festivities which, I have to hand it to the Germans they do know how to organise well - gallons of beer, mountains of food and plenty of joviality all 'round. (Psssst, this wasn't the highlight but it did make an impression - this catering company organised the marquee, food, drinks (beer, wine, champagne and schnapps and waited on tables) + the pièce de résistance, a block of portable, flushable toilets. None of this portaloo stuff. No, the Germans are quite refined. Although I did find it perplexing to see a guy urinating against a wall when he actually had to walk past the toilets to get there - just goes to show you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink / old habits die hard. And, ofcourse the toilets were incredibly clean. Ah yes, welcome to Germany. )

Tomorrow, it's off on a 10-day bicycle trip with Reinhard, Max and Helmut along the German/Polish borderlands.

But before that what I'm already missing:

1. I do miss the affordability of the Baltics. Being here now in Western Europe (thud) is a rude awakening. Coffee is expensive, accommodation will no doubt be expensive, logistics is expensive. In fact, everything's expensive.

2. The accommodation russian roulette. Where will I sleep tonight? Will I be comfortable? Will it be, relatively, expensive or riduculously cheap? I kind of miss the unpredictability of it all.

3. Not quite the best food I've ever eaten but certainly the most filling. And, really, for someone who can't even dream of living without carbs, ever, this was as close to heaven as I could possibly get. Potatoes (any which way), cake, pastries and pancakes every day. Thankfully Germany and Poland love the potato too. And cake. Otherwise withdrawal could be nasty...

4. Visits to the supermarket. Always fascinating in foreign countries. In the Baltics it was especially interesting to see the most wonderful array of produce sold. Such as shredded cabbage (up to 10kg buckets - I mean, you can buy paints in buckets that size), mayonnaise (I didn't realise there could be that much variety!), herring any which way (salted, pickled, dried, gelatinous, tinned, in salads etc), the number of different jars of ready-made borscht lining the shelves (a lot). I'll also miss seeing electronically tagged sausage (yes really).

5. The ridiculous amount of alchohol available. In the smaller produce stores it was not unheard of to see equal amounts of floor space given to food and alcohol. I'll always go for a more varied diet of food. Alcohol I can take or leave but it still fascinated me to see the different types of vodka, and the respective volumes, available. It really had to be seen to be believed. And beer in 3 litre plastic bottles for the equivalent of about $2.50, and cheaper than soft drink? Well, it's no wonder people drink. Still, the availability of alcohol in plastic may go some way to explain why the roads were not so strewn with broken glass (and why I didn't have one puncture along either?). So yay, kind of, for plastic.

6. The pitiful amount of recyling that's done. There was some, yes, but on the whole everything goes in the bin - the same one. Recycling of cars, is another matter. When the Germans/Swiss/French/Dutch tire of their cars and purchase new ones the old ones get another lease on life in the Baltics. Then after the Baltics its off to Russia, Belarus, Ukraine goodness knows where. So recycling in that regard is alive and well.

7. The wonderful forest in all its shade of green harbouring all manner of creatures that I was forever looking out for but never got to see. Cool and welcoming when the road was hot, brimming with wild strawberries, blueberries, cranberries and filled to overflowing with mosquitoes. Ah yes, love/hate all in one. But love conquers all.

8. The richness of birdlife. Birds that I never see in Australia. Birds that I never hear in Australia. Birds that I never see but hear in the Baltics. In particular the one little fellow that followed me on my whole trip calling out "pleased to meet you" and when i was free camping "i'm scared". I miss you already.

9. Lessons in solitude. The Baltics really did provide me with a lesson in solitude. The people, mostly, left me alone. Respectful, I think, of what they thought I wanted to be. Alone. In a weird kind of way, although I wanted to be alone, I think the Baltics highlighted that, well, although I do want to be alone, I only want to be alone in parts. Not completely, but only some of the time. The Baltics showed me I can't have it all. So, uh, thanks for the reality check.

10. Ah, the road. Full of surprises. Some better than others. But always leading me to some wonderful places and driving forwards (and at times backwards and round and round).

Thinking back now, about my trip, I'm already filled with a sense of, is grief the right word? I feel quite melancholic. I was ready for it to end but now that I am in Germany I want to kind of be back there. What is that? Is it holiday blues?

On the subject of emotions, another BIG thank you to all the supporters who donated so generously to the Mental Illness Fellowship so far. A big pat on the back to all of you. As at today (17 July), $1,855 has been donated through the mycause website. OK, so I didn't spend 3 months in the Baltic States but I did cycle 3,000km+ and I still hold hope of reaching $3,000 raised. And just a reminder, the site is still open, and will continue to be for a while after I return home in mid August. If you want to donate in the meantime you can copy and paste this address into your browser http://www.mycause.com.au/bikingthebalticstates and follow the instructions.

In Germany it is (almost) like coming home. It's familiar. I speak the language, kind of. I know people. I know places. It's like being back home without being at home. Still, I think there's at least 10 days of uncertainty ahead. Will keep you posted.

C'mon German/Polish borderlands, show us whatcha got.

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Photos

I Made It!
As promised, 3,000km in the Baltic States. Who would have thought it possible in countries so small? Ok, so it did involve a bit of riding in circles...

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

I've just discovered your blogs.
I've enoyed reading your blogs tonight. Great ride.