Berlin

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Well, this is long overdue. It´s the 4th of July today, but I´ll be sharing with you my short time in another country, Germany. For a week in late June I visited the captial of Berlin for some world cup soccer madness and hoped for a taste of the growing art scene shaping in East Berlin. Taking a small gamble, I lined up a room via craiglist from a guy named Johannes in Prenzlauer Berg. It worked out wonderfully and while I spent 30 euro a night, i heard from some very frustrated americans that they were spending 125 euro a night, a block down, in a 2 star holetel. Prenzlauer is to Berlin what Williamsburg is to New York. It´s very trendy with unique clothing shops, cafes, etc. Quite a few hipsters deutsche, but I imagine it´s mostly the holdouts as Prenzlauer is now getting more expensive. Gentrification happens everywhere dear Billyburgers. You´re plight goes uncared for. Only 20 years ago in Prenzlauer, all of these big residential complexes sat there ripe for the taking. If you wanted it, just move on in. Another example of patience being rewarded.
Anyway, back to my task at hand. The world cup (WM) is a HUGE thing in Germany as they are the hosts. Every cafe, bar, kebab stand, restaurant, beer garden, etc was showing the game. I even had a bus driver yell out the window in passing asking the score of the current match. People sat around on the sidewalks drinking beer casually all times of the day and night, watching the WM. The fan mile in Berlin was the spot for the fans of whoever was currently playing. On day one the Swedes were in town, but apparently the ladies of Swede Land aren´t into their football like their men are. So with little visual stimulus I just crashed early in a fit of jet lag. A few days later the US played Italy and I sat in a sea of Azzurri in a replica stadium next to the Reichstag. There wasn´t an american within 100 feet to my left or right but I chatted with some german gals seated to my left and laughed with the Italians to my right who I think felt sorry for me in my isolation. The azzurri scored a goal for the US and we walked away with a tie. Lucky.
In my search for culture, I found a great clothing store with unique designs for men and women. Called 'Holly' in the Mitte area, just south of Torrestrasse on Schonhauserstrasse. I had a chance to speak with the designer and try on some very cool jackets that could easily jump between super casual and dressed up saavy. I don´t think I can explain the style of it. Let´s just say it´s part Sherlock Holmes, part Sound of Music/Austrian Alps, part Italian cut and leave it at that. (I don´t think they´d hire me to make their brochures but I thought it was great.) The other thing I found and became infatuated with was the Stadtbad. The Stadtbad was an old public bath house in East Berlin. Not used for it´s intended purpose for years, it´s been the site of Versace fashion shows and who knows what else. But for 6 weeks, 5 friends had rented it out and created an amazing alternative venue to watch world cup games, eat, drink, and dance. I think I went back to this place at least 4 times. It was free to enter, and beers and food were the same price as any other place in the neighborhood making it very affordable. I watched the German v Ecuador game here and it was absolutely packed with a great crowd. As I write this Germany is still in the running, playing tonight against Italy. Go Deutcshland! As for me, up next, Spain.

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Photos

stadtbad upstairs
I love the decreptitude of this place!

stadtbad chairs
faded red chairs against the fading blue tile in the main pool of the Stadtbad.

stadtbad walls
the inside walls were lined with arches and walkways that surrounded the main pool area.

Go USA!
The Americans were few but proud!

Forza Azzurri
The Italians however were in strong numbers!

Comments

[Mom]

Blog feedback
Pete, Fun to read about you experiences. Keep writing! Your pictures are great! Glad to see you are enjoying your experience. We missed you on the 4th....the usual crowd plus Pat and his girlfriend. Keep in touch!

[Alex Yates]

World Cup fever and beyond
Hey Pete - love the blog, nice to be able to travel with ya while I'm in my office in San Diego. My buddy Dave Bunch is in Madrid for most of July so if you make it that far hit me up for his contact info. Heard Barcelona and northern Spanish coast is awesome. I only did Madrid, Valencia and Ibeza when I was there in '01. I do have contacts in Bangkok when you're heading to Thailand. Know folks in Vienna as well as Geneva. Have fun and keep writing brotha! Cheers!

[Carlo Rossell]

Grate Tymes Hahhh!
Sounds like you are having a great time! World Cup Fever had to be amazing... I felt it in bars in the city, I can only imagine the roar of the crowd in the stands!!! Hope you are very well, and keep enjoying yourself. Oh, and good pictures BTW.