Berlin : We Blitzed It.

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It’s dificult to pigeon-hole Berlin, as it is a diverse mix of old and new, is very multicultural and heavily steeped in history. We bought daily transport passes and changed from buses to trams to trains very regularly. The main points of interest are quite spread out and there doesn’t seem to be the congestion that we experienced in Budapest.

Obviously, due to its part in WW2 and the destruction of most of Berlin in 1945, the buildings are relatively recent and many are reproductions of what stood there before. It makes for an interesting mix of socialist modernist styles, Soviet architecture in the East and newer buildings highlighting modern Germany and its place in the modern world.

You can’t visit Berlin without commenting on its role in WW2 and the Holocaust but I think it is enough to say that modern views reflect what occurred, and memorials and stark reminders are located around Berlin as a desire for repentance and to reinforce to locals and visitors alike that this evil part of history should never be forgotten and can’t be repeated.

The other major event in Berlin’s recent history was the forming, and then removing, of the Berlin Wall, erected in 1961 to separate the East and West sections, and removed after years of protests and condemnation in 1989. It was erected with wire barriers overnight and friends and family were separated for 28 years. Something as simple as staying over at a friend‘s house for the night could impact someone’s life for decades. A person could arrive at the wall on the way home from work and decide whether to cross over and be locked in and be out of work, or separate from family but still support them. It was eventually constructed of concrete and became an impregnable barrier. People were evicted with no notice and their houses removed to create ’no man’s land’. No compensation and , to make things worse, they were still on the wrong side of the wall. People were shot for trying to escape from East to West and many people died without the cause of death being known until after the wall came down and records were released.

In their wisdom, the government allowed certain sections of the wall to remain as monuments and the route of the wall is marked with cobbled pavers following the path of the wall. We visited an excellent museum near one such section and the visual and audio displays complimented a thorough and systematic flow of display boards. For me, this has been a highlight of our visit.

Another area I was keen to see if it was convenient was the Kotte area in Kreuzberg. I have read the history of a protest movement that originated in this area, when a frail woman posted a sign on her door stating her intention to kill herself, as since the wall came down, values and rent increases in the area had pushed her to believe this was her only solution. This was a very disadvantaged area where people lived in fear and kept to themselves. It was home to Turkish migrants, homosexuals, and many poor people who never knew their neighbors.

A neighbor saw the sign, consulted with others, and planted a seed of social connection that grew to be a movement that lobbied governments, had rents set, and its model was repeated throughout Germany to great success. This people power not only achieved some equality for people but also created a social connection in the district that had never existed before. Well, that’s a bit of background and after a couple of train rides I was standing in front of a mural near the station that honours the movement and the people involve. It was probably the highlight of the day for me as I only mentioned it as a last minute wish and Tim helped it come true.

This post covers 2 days so there are more pics with, hopefully, better descriptions. I’ve tried to keep the number down but I’m pretty hopeless at that. They will hopefully add to what I’ve written.My man flu developed into woman flu (Is there such a thing? Apparently there is and it’s the real one.), so I bought different drugs and am on the mend.; I have been a bit absent and foggy for a few days but I’m not complaining, I am on holidays.

Tomorrow we are having breakfast at Winterveld, in a cafe that was built as a pharmacy in 1892. It has all the dark stained timber features and original fittings, and now sells chocolates and coffee; my kind of medicine. There is a Saturday Market in a nearby park so that would be a fitting finale to our stay in Berlin.

Berlin is a little like Melbourne in some ways. It is a modern city surrounded by an edgy subculture that seems to nurture creativity, and it’s common to see people nursing musical instruments on the train or attending the many language and arts colleges that have sprung up. There are many galleries and museums to visit and I dont think a 3 day visit does Berlin justice. We seemed to miss some of our destinations by days; they were either temporarily closed for repairs, and in the case of a landmark cafe on Karl- Marx- Alle, had gone broke 11 days ago. Disasters seem to precede us.I’ll get some pictures up and will next report from Dusseldorf , fingers crossed.

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Photos

The Friedrichskirche
Memorial church to honour victims of war. Located next to the Ruin Church

The Ruined Church
Bombed in 1945, it stands as testament to the futility of war. It is the only building within sight of it that was kept, so it sits in a very modern shopping/business precinct. It is pocked with bullet marks and is evidence that Germany paid a high price initiating WW2. It is one of the most important monuments in Berlin

Check Point Charlie
It is the real location but actors now man the replica booth and, as the picture shows, give tourists information and check their smart phones.

Bebelplatz : Book Burning Memorial
This square was the scene of the infamous book burning by the Nazis on 10 May, 1933. The building in the background was a library at the time. A plaque at the site quotes a prophetic Heinrich Heineken, 1820, “ That was only a prelude, there they burn books, they burn in the end people.”

Central Memorial Of The Federal Republic Of Germany
This is a Memorial to the victims of fascism and militarism and contains the remains of an unknown soldier and a concentration camp victim buried with soil from concentration camps and battle fields. In the middle is a Käthe Kollwitz statue known as ‘ A mother and her dead son’. Very poignant.

The Synagogue
Interesting rebuilt place, closed for renovations

Cultural Hub
This square, established in 1799 as a horse stable was declared property of the people in 1950 and since the fall of the Wall it has attracted artists, designers and musicians to the historical buildings. In 2014 a theatre was added and owner operated shops and a tea house have revived the creative, spirited atmosphere.

‘Stalin’s Grass’
Placed at the foot of the walls these spikes inflicted horrific injuries and their use was stopped in 1985.

A Full Section Of The Wall
Flanked by 2 Steel walls this contains the full structural form of the Wall and includes a guardhouse.

Kotte, Kreuzberg
This was the scene of the revolution in people power aimed at gaining rental equity for the poorer communities when the Wall came down,. The sign says,’ Wages up, rent down .’ Mmmmm..sounds familiar.

The Other Side Of Kotte Mural
This is located next to the public housing that it refers too.

Turkish Breakfast In Kreuzberg
It was the real deal and pretty reasonably priced. There is a large Turkish population in Kreuzberg and the street is dominated by Turkish shops.

East Side Gallery
This 1.3 kilometre section of the wall left standing is a well acknowledged site of street art. It was painted in 1990 and the artwork was rejuvenated in 2009.

Honecker and Brezhnev Kissing.
My God, help me survive between this fatal love. This title at the base mocks the relation ship between the Russian leader and his German counterpart

Comments

[Susan Petch]

Berlin Wall
Seeing the Berlin Wall sounds interesting. I remember when it came down. Great day. I have wanted a piece of it for ages. It is interesting about the fixed rents. I knew they had them but didn't know why.