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Published: February 18th 2007
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My Hotel
The exterior of Hotel Weierich After my visit to the Max Platz market, I set out in search of a couple of other sites in Bamberg that I had recently read about in a book by Steve Berry entitled "The Third Secret". While the book only had a short piece in it about Bamberg, there was enough detail about the city that I was interested in seeing after reading Mr. Berry's descriptions. One was an area along the river called "Little Venice", named because the river abuts the buildings and people board flat river boats for rides there. Also, because even though the city did experience bombing during WWII, it had been restored beautifully to preserve the old Germany that is so charming. And another reason - The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George, where Pope Clement II is entombed - he is the only Pope not buried at St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. This was his home, and it was his wish to be buried here....in 1047. Yes, this is an old city that embraces its roots. Also interred in the church are Emperor Henry II and his wife Kunigunde, who were responsible for the separate bishopric to be located in Bamberg - thus,
Crossing the Unterebruke
Crossing the Regnitz River is the Unterebruke (Under Bridge) the numberous cathedrals that adorn this seven-hilled city. This also is the reason for the location - evidently this Emporer had had a falling out with the powers at be in Rome, and decided Bavaria would be a better place to invest his wealth, so he had the bishopric moved here and spent lots of money building it out. This city also had 7 hills, as does Rome, so there you go. There are a couple of statues of these two around town as well....enough of the history lesson - but at least you understand my interest.
So, inside The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George, is also a large statue actually carved into the stone in the wall, of St. Stephan (when he was a king, before he became a saint). This church is huge, but to me didn't have the same reverence as the others I had been in. Perhaps because it was full of tourists, and although everyone was respectful, it seemed to be more of a museum than a church.
So, back out and across Domplatz to explore these other very interesting looking buildings. Turns out one was the residence house of the
The River Houses and The Church
The village houses along the river, with the spires of the The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George overlooking the city, are some of the beauty and charm I experienced in Bamberg. bishops, and the other a former government office building - but at the time that these buildings were erected, there were no clear lines between church and state, so I think the Bishops probably were the day to day governors of the territory. I need several years of German history to get it all straight -and it doesn't help that most of what I am trying to read is in German and I can understand about every 4th word. Adjacent to the cathedral is a wall with a gated entrance that is open, so off I go to see what is behind door #2. Wow...it is what was probably the very original part of the city. Timbered on the top half, and under it most likely was for the livestock and feed. I would guess they could have housed 50 or more families in here.....
So, now I see another church tower, so I'm off to see which church this is. St. Jacob's Cathedral....this one appears also very old, but I don't see any documentation or plaques to give me information. This church is very simple compared to it's near neighbor, but I feel the need to sit and
Statue of Emperess Kunigrunde
The wife of the Emporer, who paid the way for the seat of Catholicism that exists in Bamberg today. She was very beloved of the citizens of Bamberg. Note the frescoes on the blue building in the background. The white detailing around the windows are painted - not woodwork. be still and pray. When I have finished, the organ began playing.....that gave me goosebumps...OK, God heard me. I turned around to look at the organ, and about that time I also began to hear a flute play - they are rehearsing no doubt, as the organist did not finish the song that he started, and the flutist was now playing long tone scales warming up. With that as my signal that it was time to leave and explore some more, I think its probably time that I head down the hill toward the hotel. But - as I am headed back across Domplatz, I see yet another steeple, and now I'm on a mission - this is a town of churches, so lets just see how many I can see. I have already explored 3 (St. Martins, St. Peter and St. Georges, and St. Jacobs). So off I go down the hill in a direction different than how I came. I'm OK, I tell myself - I have a map in my pocket (not that I've seen many street signs). If all else fails I can see the 4 steeples of St. Peters and St. Georges, go back there
and backtrack, right?
So, after walking through a local walking path, winding my way back up a different hill, down another, and halfway up another, I finally approach the steeple I was chasing. This is the Obere Pfarrkirche....what I remembered from my research is that three is a nativity trail through Bamberg, where you can see nativity scenes along a specific route - this church was one of the "stopping" points. When I went in, there was a line of people (by this time I've learned to just "follow the people to get to the place to be". This church had about 8 or 10 different nativity scenes set up. I stolled through and looked at each one, then took in the details of the church and back out the door. It was nearing 3:00 in the afternoon, and since it gets dark before 4:30, I figured it best for me to try to find my way to the hotel. As I began my walk down the hill, and passed the rear of the the church, it was such a stark change from the front of the church. The oldest part of the church being the front, was very
Domplatz
Domplatz of the Cathedral, with the residence buildings dark and gothic in style. This section at the rear was painted in a salmon tone, probably added in the late 18th to mid 19th century, and had a cheerier, lighter feel to it. What I later learned is that the Pfarrkirche is the "church of our lady", and the back portion celebrates the ladies of the Church - the Virgin Mary, and all of the female saints, whose statures were posed on the outside of the building.
So, I am now heading in what I believe to be the direction of my hotel...my eye spots a couple more steeples, but quite frankly, I'm ready to sit a while. At the end of this block I am pretty sure I am at the "viewpoint" of my hotel window, and once I get around the corner - bingo - there's the Hotel Weierich. Boy, am I good or what?
So I dumped my backpack in the room and head back toward the Christmas market that is close to my hotel. There is a band playing, and now a horse and carriage are parked, taking on passengers. Hmmm, the lead singer is a female dressed in a Santa suit. I
Cathedral Organ Pipes
The organ pipes at the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George bought a cup of hot chocolate, and grabbed an empty park bench that was nearby and enjoyed the music and people watching. A few minutes later, I hear the clip-clop of hooves, and this horse and buggy are not doing a leisurely ride through the city - they are barreling ahead, and I thought when they made the turn, they would end up on two wheels....they didn't but the people on board all yelled "whoa!" at the same time in the midst of the turn.
I had dinner in the hotel's restaurant later in the evening. On the minu were about 8 varieties of fisch - unfortunately, neither one of my pocket guides could tell me what types of fish they were, and the waitress didn't speak a lick of English. But - she got the Chef for me - and he very patiently explained what each dish was and how it was prepared. So - I had Salmon and potato pancakes - which was good, and topped that off with apple struedel for dessert. You should have seen those hills I climbed today - yes, I earned those calories. (do you spot a theme here?)
So, I
The Bamberg Horseman
Thought to be a statue of King and later St. Stephen of Hungary, this statue was erected in early to mid 1200's (I have seen anywhere from 1215 - 1240). St. Stephen is the patron saint of Bamberg, and this statue is in the Catheral. head to my room, stopping at the desk to ask if they can arrange for a taxi for me at 6:30 in the morning, as my train for Dresden leaves a few minutes after 7:00 in the morning. I am sorry to be leaving this town so soon - this will definitely be a place I return to in a future visit.
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