ss Catherine & Vivier

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SS Catherine – Rhone River – Provence

Well, today is Wednesday, day three, and I’ve just sat down in the Leopard bar with a glass of Rose’ about the hundredth glass of Rose. When in Rome! The French seem to drink Rose’ for breakfast. We are enjoying our little bit of luxury very much. The boat is beautiful; it exceeds the photos. The service is amazing, nothing is too much trouble. The food is better than ever. We were well pleased to have covered the Popes Palace and Avignon before boarding as we were able to take advantage of other options for our excursions. On Monday after lunch we went with 15 others on the bus for an hour and arrived at the river Gardon. After the safety briefing we were all into Kayaks for the paddle down river to the Pont du Gard, the Roman aqueduct we had visited before. We got ourselves into the double Kayak with me in the back, but after some steering trials we decided to reassign positons. Apparently the steering comes from the front (decision making) and power comes from the back (brute force and ignorance). We had to get our rights and lefts right, yeah right when paddling but became not a bad team. The current was quite swift in places and we had to go over some mini rapids which was quite exciting for moi’. However due to no rain for weeks (that’s Provence) and low water levels, with the loading at the back we occasionally grounded and had to get out and push. Two hours (8km) and a swim at the end but totally exhausted and late back for the captain’s dinner looking like drowned rats. The captain’s dinner was exquisite, 4 courses equal to the best anywhere. My first taste of Foie Gras however, had started to eat it before I realised the ethical issues. By then I couldn’t stop eating, but then had the guilts for a day.





Yesterday when most of the boat went to Arles, ourselves and another couple went for a walk into Tarascon with our lovely concierge, Martin. (Clown of the boat). You might remember this is where we accidentally got off the train one day not much impressed. Well turns out this is a lovely old village. Not a usual tourist stop, but that made it all the more quant. We visited their castle on the banks of the Rhone complete with moat. It had been used as a prison for a hundred years resulting in the most amazing and the oldest graffiti we ever seen. We climbed the stairs that took us to the top and the panoramic view over the town and out to the mountains. It was market day for the town with flea, vegie and cheap import markets for all to see. The variety of tomatoes from the tomato vendor and the variety of lettuces from the lettuce vendor were awesome. We bought a cheap suitcase for our home journey, not much shopping, things just seem to get heavier…I left himself in the coffee shop while I went into the Souleiado fabric museum. Absolutely fabulous display of vintage Provencal fabric and the original dye workshop and original fabric printing blocks also furniture, porcelain and costume display. Of course nothing in English but enjoyed it anyway. Would like to have purchased some silk but it was very expensive. Back on board for lunch and resting.





This morning was another highlight. We arrived this morning to the little town or Viviers. On opening our curtain, we found a pair of white swans hanging around under our window, looking for the main chance. Viviers is another historical listed village. We were met by our guide Francis a delightful classy older lady who had lived in this village for 26 years. She lives in the house originally owned by her aunty several hundred years old in the sacred quarter. After a gently tour of the town with many funny antidotes and explanations we reached the top to the little cathedral the smallest cathedral in France where we were treated to a half hour performance on the 5-metre-high old pipe organ, We were then invited into Francis’s home for cheese homemade pate (most beautiful cheese) and Rose’ of course in her garden which is reached by stairs to the roof. This house when her Aunty owned it was a safe house for the French resistance during the war and she was able to show us secret tunnels used for that purpose. The house was just what you would expect, so simple but chic. Amazing how much house is behind those shutter. One of my best days... This was the most peaceful village we have visited and I really loved it. This afternoon we have been through several locks as we have laid on the deckchairs and watched the countryside go bye. I have also tried out the little pool with the current button, it nearly blew me out of the pool. The pool wall has this amazing handmade ceramic mural that totally fascinates me… such amazing colours.

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