Provence and The Cote D'Azur

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August 17-19, 2006



Originally, Simone and I had planned to travel much of the French Mediterranean coastline, from Narbonne to Monaco. But, since this is the high-season for beach (la plage) vacations the roads near the ocean are just jam packed, especially the closer you get to Nice. So, instead, we decided to focus on Avignon (northeast of Limoux, and still in Provence and The Cote D'Azur). We did manage to dip down to Toulon for a bit (on the ocean), but we also made it over to the Gorges of Verdon.

I won’t recount much of the trip (not because it was not fantastic, but simply because it would take too much time). The highlights are as follows:

* I can't really recommend Toulon. Not that it was bad, simply that there are many other port cities along the coast that seem more interesting. There was a huge open-air farmer's market going on while we were there and I did get to have the best plums I ever tasted. I have never seen them in the states. They are small, greenish, and the French call them Reine Claude. They are pure ambrosia. Since I had never had them, but had heard good things from Simone, I tried to buy just two from the woman (see picture), but when she felt the weight of the bag, she tossed it aside saying that it wasn't worth the paper, and told me to eat one for free to try. After I did, we bought a full bag.

* If you are ever near the Gorges du Verdon you must see go them. They are in the middle of the region between Moustiers-Saint-Marie and Castellane. If you go, I recommend starting on the east and travelling west (as we did), as it would seem to afford better views of the river as you are driving. I think the views were even more breathtaking than those we experienced a few days earlier from the mountains bordering the Mediterranean. Unfortunately, still photos (especially with the angle of lenses at my disposal) are ill equipped to capture the sweeping vistas. Take my word for it, it is one extraordinary place.

* Avignon was well worth the visit. It reminded me of La Cite (the fortified city in Carcassone). It was touristy, but very enjoyable. There are many historic spots and museums including the famous "bridge of Avignon", the Pont St. Benezet, and the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes). In a number of cases, you could take audio tours (both educational and entertaining) and I'm sure I could have spent another 2-3 days in the city and enjoyed every minute. Of the places I have seen, it is one I would recommend as a destination for a 1-2 week stay, as the better part of 1 week could be spent exploring the city and the rest of the time exploring the region it's in.

* If you are in the area, the Pont du Guard is a bit west of Avignon, and worth a look. It is about 2000 years old and the tallest bridge ever built by the Romans. Part of the aqueduct system; it brought water from the springs at Uzes to Nimes. I expected just a bridge, but it is more of a park. The bridge and walking paths around the area (plus swimming if you wish) are free except for parking. There are also paid attractions like a little museum and movie to learn more about the bridge (though we didn't avail ourselves of these).

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Photos

Toulon
Simone has begun to insist that some pictures of me get into the blog.

Toulon
My new favorite fruit on the far right (Reine Claude Plums).

Gorges du Verdon
Yes...I always have a camera.

Gorges du Verdon
People having fun bungee jumping into the gorge.

Gorges du Verdon
Once down you had to lie on your back in the gorge for about 15 minutes; then take a 30 minute walk back to the top.

Gorges du Verdon
It's hard to provide scale here. On this picture (1 of 3), note the small white bar at the top center of the furthest ridge.

Gorges du Verdon
Now, as I zoom in to that ridge, can you make out what the white bar is?

Gorges du Verdon
Now, as I zoom in further, you can finally see that it's a cluster of buildings. Now go back to the first picture and imagine the view from those buildings (similar to the view from where I am taking the picture).

Gorges du Verdon
Once again, for scale, look close and you will see Simone in the upper left. Max depth in the gorges? About 2,200 feet.

Gorges du Verdon
Hairpin turns. Believe it or not, people were passing me on these roads.

Gorges du Verdon
Exiting the gorges.

Comments

[Sharon]

Great Photos!
I've been to Avignon, and it's so spectacular! The entire coast with Monaco and Cote d'Azur is gorgeous. So glad you are getting to do this trip...it's making me really miss France!