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Published: August 26th 2007
The obligitary sunflower shot
You just have to do one of these when you are in the South of France. Luckily enough there were still sunflowers to be seen in Gers. - Today, since it is Sunday, we were advised to go south and head to a bastide or two, (or 5) and see some local fetes which included demonstrations of old crafts and game tournaments. We thought this was a great idea but headed off West first, since some of the things we wanted to see didn’t start until 3 PM. So, we drove to Narac, one of the homes of Henry IV, who, it turns out, was a bit of a rabbit (their term, not mine!). Anyway, he had a really nice castle that we went to visit in the New City, after having lunch in the Old City. It seems the age differentiation is the Renaissance. Both were very picturesque and a good time was had. (Rereading this, I may sound a little blasé, but we have seen a LOT of chatueaux!) Unfortunately, it was too late to follow our initial plan, so we got in the car and started driving. We came across small villages that had this interesting game being played, like 10-pin bowling, except with 6 pins, in two lines. The object was to be the first to knock down your set of
Vintage Car
No, were not driving around France in this. However, it is lovely.... pins. Scored like lawn-bowling, I saw similarities to many games that are played. The tournaments are all-day affairs. We headed back to the house for dinner with the family. This consisted of, besides other things, Magret de Canard, which, if I hadn’t seen the skin on it, I would have thought was a VERY tender piece of steak. Thoroughly enjoyed by both Kevin and myself! Oh, and I have found another local dessert specialty thing that consists of filo pastry wrapped around apples or pears, but it sure was good!!! The good news is that the familie Pommies doesn’t have a scales.
August 20, 2007 - The days are starting to blur and I am having to make notes about what we see. This area of Gers is so rich in history that I wish I had lots of books to do research. So many questions, so little time, and so little room in the suitcase. Today we headed off to a Garlic Festival in one of the towns. The local market was on as well and we picked up some great sausages and olives. It seems that these festivals travel from one town to another, the various displays
Henri IV of France
Caroline and the Rabbit. Marybeth, note she isn't wearing her standard sweater, or is it just another photoshop touch-up... get voted on, and then there is a big party for the locals, either at lunch or dinner. At this town it was dinner and a big dance, so we couldn’t participate, since we were expected home. But that was okay. Jean-Clement was making Garlic soup, a local specialty, and I now have the recipe! Very good, with lots of bread and a nice salad to finish off.
August 21, 2007 - The weather was rainy today, consistantly rainy, so we decided it would be a good day to drive to Lembeye, a town where friends (Rob & Erica Lauder) in New Zealand import their wine from, on the recommendation of a good lunch. They were right! And good job too, since it took us over two hours to get there. A lot of that was driving in circles. I take back all the nice things I said about French signage. It all sucks! But what else would we have done? Actually, the terrain where the town is differs significantly from where we are staying, more hills and different foliage. You are much closer to the Pyrenees. And we stopped to say hi to their business people but one
Nerac
Picture postcard perfect, except for the colour of the water which is caused by the limestone. was “en vacance”. Then we drove back, going a different way. We have tried to do this on all our outings so we are constantly seeing different things. This evening we were invited to see a totally restored 17th Century townhouse, originally owned by a man in local commerce. The current owners run it as a bed and breakfast, and it is gorgeous. So much attention has been paid to detail in both the house itself, and the furnishings. It took 10 years to renovate. The antiques were stunning. Everything was perfect. And it’s for sale. I heard the owners will “accept” 750,000 Euros, including furnishings. 8 bedrooms! It was beautiful, and we were so grateful to be able to see it.
August 22, 2007 - Kevin decided that, since it was raining again, we would go out and just stay local in our driving and see some of the bastides and chateaux that we had gone past but hadn’t been to. One that really impressed us was Ch. De Gramont. It was built in the 13th Century, with add-ons in the Renaissance, and it was interesting to see not only the two styles of architecture, but also learn
Yours Truly
Not a good photo, but I bet you're all envious of those skinny legs... about the uses of each part. The Gramont Family was totally wiped out (ie, beheaded) during the Revolution, with various owners since. It is now owned by the state. Our guide, though not really fluent in English, was enthusiastic about trying to do the tour so we have to give her kudos for that. We have been struck with how wonderful the people here are about speaking English. And if they don’t speak English, they are very patient in dealing with our French.
Tonight was our farewell dinner with Jean-Clement and Chrystele and we went to a wonderful place. Great ambiance and fabulous food. A small “thank-you” for the wonderful time and experience of being with the Familie Pommies (Jean-Clement, Chrystele, Eloise and Estee). We look forward to their coming to New Zealand next July so we can repay their hospitality!
August 23, 2007 - Well, it’s raining again, but we are going south and it never rains in Provence! So, on the road bright and early - 9:30 - and we drove all day. We figured ETA would be 4 PM. We were going great until we got into the home stretch into Aix-En-Provence, then it happened. We
Another Castle
This one was the residence of the rabbit. got on the pay as you go motorway going the wrong way, and no way to get off. We finally got off, but now we had no idea where we were, with no map to Aix-En-Provence, and no instructions that correlated with the direction we were coming in from. So, we drove, following signs to “Centre ville”, trying to get bearings, and all we knew was that we kept passing this HUGE fountain. This became our new “Place de la Bastille”. But we still didn’t know where we were. Finally, we found a big, modern shopping mall and I was sent in to find a map. (I’m goin’ IN!) Asked for a map in halting French (je suis perdu!) bought it, and then went back to the girl to find out where I was. She was VERY patient. So, we were closer than imagined, and it only took us another 20 minutes, and a couple of arguments, to get to where we needed to go. We finally arrived at the house at 6. Went to the Market for supplies then made soup. I was almost tempted to buy the ready-made Ile Flotante dessert you can now buy in the yogurt
Armanac
I wasn't allowed to take photo's at Remy Martin, so I got my barrel shot while visiting the Armanac Chateau. section. Exhausting and exhausted. After sorting ourselves out and watching a movie, it’s off to bed.
August 24, 2007 - First on the list of things to do was to buy a Michelin Guide in English for the area, like what we had in Brittany. I will never be without one again. They tell you all about the small towns in the department and it is wonderful. Whereas I only had ½ page on Arles in my other books, I have a whole section. So, I was able to get one.
And off we went on a walking tour of Aix-En-Provence, which started at - you guessed it - our “Place de la Bastille”. Actually it is called the Rotonde, and is the center of old Aix. The walk around took a couple of hours and we saw great buildings, fountains (Kevin feels a new series coming on) and markets. We finished just in time for lunch. We had wonderful salads. Oh, did I mention it isn’t raining, and it is warm? This afternoon we drove around the area, seeing a couple of small towns. But for the weather the last couple of days, it is more interesting in
Someone we met while watching skittles
This chap spoke to us for about 1hour on the England France rugby game, however he spoke no English. Languedoc and Gers. Maybe it is because their history isn’t as volatile here. We are seeing lots of olive trees, everywhere, and it is dry. Very similar to Southern California. And, of course, the food is different here too. Lots of fish and fresh veges. Yum! Of couse I am looking forward to seeing what the local dessert specialty is. We have an action-packed week ahead, so stay tuned!
SOME OBSERVATIONS ABOUT SOME OF THE CUSTOMS AND OUR LIKES AND DISLIKES…. 1. The 2-hour lunch is great, and all the shops close, and so does everything else but the restaurants. And then you want to take a nap….
2. There is no way to know if you are going north, or any other direction, from any of the signs on the roads.
3. Wouldn’t it be nice if, when you get on the fwy going the wrong way, it would be easy to correct direction? Also, we’d like exits less than 20km apart when going the wrong way.
4. Kevin likes the ¼ carafe of wine with lunch (2 glasses for 4 Euro). And we also like the Pre-fix menus for 16 Euro - All 3 courses.
Skittles
6-Pin bowling? 5. We don’t like French weigh scales, they make you seem fat, especially after those Pre-fix lunches and dinners.
6. We like French cars because they run on the smell of an oily rag.
7. We don't like the price of diesel at 1.12 Euro per litre.
8. We don’t like French driver etiquette because there is none.
9. Caroline loves the Fresh Markets. To browse through the stalls just eying all the fresh produce and supplies. And to be able to do it every day....
10. The French are very good about recycling, and we now realize they have been doing it for YEARS! Caroline says that she can remember, in the 70s, turning in glass bottles, and being encouraged to use her own shopping bag.
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barbara
non-member comment
road trip
Hi guys sounds like you are having a mighty fine time. Id love to be trying all that food you talk about. I'll bet you had a nap after the Armanac visit. I once went to Cognac and after a rather large brandy slept for two hours. Keeping on enjoying it and detouring it makes for fun. Barbara