PROVENCE

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May 2, 2012

We over slept a bit and Jerry woke up with a bad cold/allergies. What ever had started the day before had move to his chest. We packed and had breakfast (even though it was past serving time, they still served us our coffee and croissants). We then headed for out next stop Aix-en-Provence (pronounced X). Since it was only a short drive we took the back roads and through Avignon, the capital of Cotes du Rhone. Prior to getting to Avignon, we passed several partial castles, forts and other interesting sites, and of course vineyards.

Avignon

The old section of Avignon is completely behind the orginal walls of the City. Once you get in the walls the street become very narrow and hard to navigate even in a small car. We took one shot through the city, then found parking outside the wall. When you come out of the parking garage you are inside the wall.

Avignon is the home of the Papal palace of the Popes of Avignon. I don’t know much about my catholic history, but evidently there was a period of time where the popes relocated from Room to Avignon. There is a large Papal Palace at one end of the city and a large square leading off of that. It is a very busy town and the tourists were out in force. There is also a large population of university students here.

We strolled along the narrow, less traveled streets, but our first stop was a pharmacy to drug Jerry up, unfortuantley we did not back the Humbolt hack-away. With the help of our phrase book we were able to communicate with the pharmacist and go some appropriate OTC remedies. From there we just rambled through the streets with no particular destination in mind. After about an hour we found ourselves back were we began. We got a couple of Jamon & Fromage sandwiches to go and headed back to the car.

Aix-en-Provence

The drive to Aix was very nice and leisurly. It was a beautiful spring day, sun shinning and about 70 degrees. Aix is also a college down and is composed a a modern part and the older part that wold be behind the walls if the walls still existed. Since I did not have internet availalbility last night, I was unable to get directions to our hotel, so we had to wing it. Fortunately the tourist board posts signs for almost all hotels (or at least the ones that pay for it). This enabled us to find the hotel’s general location, but driving to it was another story. Once in the walls the streets again be come narrow and a series of one-ways, we drove around in circles for 30 minutes. We saw the signs pointing to the hotel, but could not figure out how to get on the right street. We parked in a parking garage just outside the walls and then walked the 7 blocks to the hotel.

Hotel Cardinal

A friend (who grew up in Avignon) recommended this particular hotel to us. It is an amazing 2 star hotel, with all of the character of the 18^th century in the lobby and rooms. It is a short 4 blocks to the main square of the city. It is a very large room on the 3^rd floor 2^nd floor in America. There is an elevator so you are saved the lugging of suitcase up the beautiful spiral stair case.

After checking in and unpacking, I left Jerry to rest and did a little exploring of the main square, look for an ATM and buy some water. The square is very large and runs at least 12 blocks. There is a auto street down the middle but for the most part it is all about the piétons (pedestrians). I was walking along not paying much attention to my feet, when suddenly I was following to the ground and trust me this was not a pretty sight. I fell off the curb down on my right knee then right elbow, which pushed into my chest and suddenly I was on my back like a turtle. I managed to bounce back up quickly but it was to late to act as if nothing had happened. Fortunately I will never see these people again, so the embarrassment was short lived. The pain and bruised rib will take some time to heal.

I got my cash from the ATM, I was in route to the Atm when if fell and walked back to the hotel. Jerry was relaxing reading up on Aix.

I began to blog and Jerry went to smoke and ask directions to the village that our cooking class is in on Thursday. He also got some ice for a Cotes d Provence Rose. You have to drink Rose chilled. Apparently it took three hotel staff to both give Jerry the directions and figure out that he wanted ice. The ice cam in a very small cookie jar. We chilled our wine in water and ice in the sink, not classy but did the trick.

The hotel has a very good information book including restaurant recommendations. We chose one of them for dinner. We dressed and headed for La Brocherie, which was 4 blocks and directly behind the hotel. It was a nice place, very provincial, serving traditional provincial cooking. The place specialized in cooking over a wood grill and had a good selection of seafood and meat.

The wood grill was visible from all tables in the restaurant and there was a good selection of wines from Provence. It was a good meal, simpler than Pairs or Lyon, but very good. After dinner we took a little stroll down the square then back home. Jerry turned in and I did some blogging. Tomorrow is a cooking class.

TODAY’S EATS

Breakfast

Coffee, croissants, orange juice and fruit (At Hotel Clement V)

Lunch

Jamon & Fromage baguettes (Avignon vendor)

Dinner

We both started with the Buffet de Hours D’oeuvres (the French version of a salad bar with meats, vegetables, pate’s even devilled eggs).

Jerry then had Bouef Surprise (steak of the day grilled) and I had the rack of lamb also grilled. Both plats came with grilled vegetables and sautéed potatoes.

For dessert Jerry had a classic crème Brule and I had crepes suzette, prepared at the table with nothing more than sugar, butter orange juice cognac and grand marnier and of course crepes. It was very good.

REVIEWS

Avignon: A city worth more than 2 hours. At least a two day visit and I am sure there is more to see than you could fit in that amount of time.

La Brocherie 5 Rue Fernand Dol, Aix-en-Provence: Excellent and classic provincial food. The price is great and you see them cook everything.

DAILY TIPS

We are moving to Provence, need I say more.

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Photos

City Wall
Avignon, France

Chambre
Aix-en-Provence
Hotel Cardinal

Staircase
The ones we didn't have to carry our luggae up.

The Grill
La Brocherie

Crepes Suzzette
You know if you flambee it I have to have it.

Our Street At Night
Rue de Cardinal
Aix-en-Provence