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Published: December 29th 2019
We loved Sedan . We loved Laon too. What could you not like about the town? Gabby had crawled her way up a serpentine road which eventually brought us out at the top of Laon next to the walls and in a purpose built free aire for 6 motorhomes. We could stay the night for free but to be fair this was more an aire for a day visit rather than one for staying the night. It was a touch too close to the road and would have been less than peaceful. Although we can now park almost anywhere we are never keen to be this close to the cars rushing by us. We had climbed from the plain below from the A26. Laon always looked interesting as we passed by on our way to somewhere else . This was the first time we had headed off the motorway and climbed up to see what was on offer. And what we saw really impressed us.
The medieval heart was compact . We walked for about 10 minutes up hill passing the archway which led down to the subterranean tour of Laon. As it was raining perhaps a visit to underground
Laon would have been sensible . We marked it up for the next time we visit the city . Instead of doing the sensible thing of sheltering from the first rain of the trip we continued to head up and up. We found ourselves in a small square . Quite compact with small lanes leading off in different directions. The cathedral was the main feature of that square . A dark stoned building it was pretty impressive as far as cathedrals go. Building began in the 12th and 13th centuries in the Gothic style At first we though it was like the shops nearby closed . We stood for a while just looking at its structure soaring up to the sky. The tourist office next door closed too. The carving around the building was intriguing - when have you last seen a hippopotamus gargoyle ? He looked strange amongst apostles and saints and the usual Biblical scenes. But there he was looking down upon us as we stood in the rain. We considered the fact that the medieval French builders certainly knew their trade . They brought the art of cathedral building to our shores and we have to raise
a glass or two of wine to them for leaving us with some gems around our small isle.
Just as we were about to walk away the red door opened and father and son came out. We ventured through the less than ornate doors to the inside . The windows were heavily stained with glass but still the light streamed in making the cathedral light and airy. We stood for a while looking at the 13th century glass which had survived wars and remained intact. Stories of the life or Mary and Jesus' childhood were picked out in glass . The triumphal entry into Jerusalem was depicted as were stories about the apostles and St Steven . Scenes from the Book of Revelation completed the scenes . We stood beneath the crossing , looking up and marvelling at the sheer audacity of the medieval builders and the quality of their work which has survived to this day. How it all fitted together was quite beyond us. If there was one thing we hated it had to be the Baroque pulpit which looked totally out of place . A small blot on an otherwise untarnished building . I guess some
soul might like the darkened oak structure . All swirls and curls and over the top .Quite out of place in such a simple interior . But thats taste over the centuries I guess.
The small side chapels were in keeping added throughout the 16th century. Music was being played. This made the cathedral come alive . Quiet organ music being piped around the building . It brought the building to life. The cathedral had its crib complete with baby Jesus , Mary, Joseph, the Shepherds and the Three wise men. The wealth needed to construct this cathedral astounded us. It was difficult to imagine just how much money must have been raised to build the cathedral. We felt uplifted as we stood on our own inside . Not being religious it still had a profound effect on us . We lit a candle as we try to do when we visit such a place . It was peaceful and tranquil and has been added to one of the most interesting we have been in.
Outside in the world again he headed down the Rue de Chatelain. It was the hub of the city with boulangeries and shops
of all description on either side . The Christmas decorations were superb and quite tasteful . White umbrellas hung across the street. Fluttering in the wind. At night they would lit up with a thousand tiny lights. Another street was completely filled with strips of white, silver and mauve glittering strips . The breeze blew them. They created a kaleidescope of colours - subtle but effective . Thoughtful Christmas decorations that could only please the eye. It is beginning to feel a lot like Christmas . We find ourselves singing that line all the time . We are really getting into this Christmas. We picked up a baguette - how do the France make such wonderful bread that we cannot emulate ? It must be the flour they use . It never lasts to the next day but then it gets eaten long before the morrow . I bought coffee cakes and the usual buchettes des Noel - the Christmas logs that fill every cabinet in the pattiserie.
Our final stop was a cafe for a welcome drink, a place to put our feet up . I ordered Glenn a crepe with banana ice cream and chocolate sauce . I thought I ordered a plain pancake with no sugar but just citron to douse all over it. The young lady serving cleared Glenns place map and knife and fork. We thought that odd . When we were both eating why should she take the cutlery and everything else away .The answer became clear as she brought over one crepe and put it in front of me . She added a small jug of lemon juice . How to get an order wrong ? I certainly did my best here in this creperie. She must have thought me wierd wanting that choice of pancake and putting a jugful of lemon over the lot .
So how did Laon match up to what he had hoped for ? It delivered more and we both agreed it was a good choice to come here . We have ticked off a crepe on our travels and a cathedral . Everything is coming together . We just need somewhere to sleep tonight . We head for St Quentin - another one of those places to drive by . Perhaps tomorrow we might actually get to see the town . If we do we do and if we dont - well it wont matter at all. Our plans are fluid and we are changing them as we go along .
And yes there were an awful lot of umbrellas in Laon.
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Jackie Harrison
non-member comment
Laon
Laon seems like an interesting place! Funny how you also call hairpin bends serpentinas!! Serpentina was a word we found in Croatia on the hairpin bends, we liked it, and have used it ever since!!!