Chantilly Castle and Park

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June 5

The name of Chantilly came to our notice during the previous visit in 2012. Back then, we wanted to go there but somehow our free day fell on Tuesday, when the castle was closed. Nevertheless, this time I had tickets in my pocket before leaving Russia. It took about 23 minutes from Gare du Nord to reach it. I think it is possible to combine the visit to Chantilly and Compiegne because they are on the same train line. In this entry, I will rely on web information to make the narration detailed.



The castle is located about two kilometers from the train station. The trail crosses a large park, finally reaching the Chantilly racecourse. I saw a building, called Grandes Ecuries (the Great Stables), and erroneously considered it to be the castle. We did not hurry to the castle but walked slowly enjoying the ‘countryside’. The Grandes Ecuries (1719-1740) are such an imposing edifice that I thought it natural to be the castle. Inside them is the Living Museum of the Horse, which we did not visit this time. I did not see a single horse! They could accommodate 240 horses and 500 dogs for the daily rides to hunt, and one can visit the daily dressage demonstrations or re-enactments, also horse shows are regularly held beneath the dome. Prestigious races are held on the Chantilly Racecourse.



Luda saw the castle first, and we headed straight there. I carried two discount coupons taken from some magazines, and we saved about 4 Euros in total on entrance tickets. The château de Chantilly was built for the House of Montmorency, then was home to the Condés and the Duke of Aumale. The château has two parts: the Petit Château and the Château Neuf. The Château Neuf, built between 1876 and 1882, contains paint galleries, libraries and the chapel. The château is surrounded by a park with water gardens. The Condé Museum in the château has one of the oldest collections of historic art in France and its collection of paintings is only surpassed in France by Louvre.



We visited the picture gallery, with many an impressive canvas, a separate portrait gallery; saw other objects of art such as rings, miniature items (a pistol) made of ivory, porcelain dishware; knight’s armour; the library with old books and manuscripts (I like libraries more than many other establishments), and a chapel. It should be noted that almost all the European castles (or palaces) I saw so far have a set of similar features. To say the least, none of them lacks splendour.



We then sat on a bench enjoying the fine weather. The visit has been a hit but ended in my spoilt spirits because we took a bus from Gare du Nord back to the hostel, wasting the time in a traffic jam. Paris metro is dirty and uncomfortable, but you cannot beat it for getting from point A to point B by the best route.



June 6

I decided to visit Saint-Germain-en-Laye after reading a short magazine story about it and the gardener. It seemed worthwhile visiting, as well as Malmaison (in the nearest vicinity of Paris). Perhaps I would combine both. Early in the morning I went to la Defense RER A, got to the platform, but after a couple of minutes an official came requesting me and all the other passengers to leave the platform because a suspicious object was found and the police blocked off the escalators. That was a natural continuation of my ‘luck’ with the Rouen train, but this time I would tolerate no aimless waiting. I rambled Le Quatre Temps mall and then went back, without paying for the metro ticket, because St. Germain cost me 2.40. I felt angry and dissatisfied, came back to hostel and complained to Luda. In an hour or so, I went to Cite, then St. Michel and searched for good books. I entered Gilbert Joseph’s specialized language department, where the books simply laughed very loudly at the thinness of my purse (or the card account, for that matter). I was particularly amazed at the profusion of textbooks on African languages. The air was rather stuffy and warm, so I returned to the abode and in the evening, together with Luda, made a real deep and serious investigation of the book market, purchasing a dozen books in French, Spanish, English, and Italian, with the prices per item being 0.50, 1, and 2 Euros.





There was a rally of many people at Place St. Michel, but we did not understand the reason of their gathering. Our bus 85 was out of service because of this and the metro very crowded.

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