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Published: June 22nd 2013
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I had bought a ticket to Amiens in advance. I wanted to go there to see the Amiens Cathedral, listed among UNESCO World Heritage Sites. I had early departure (and cheap ticket) in the morning, but managed to have breakfast (it was scheduled at 7-30, I went there at some 7-20 or so); there was no milk and I had to wait about five minutes. The train to Amiens took an hour and twenty minutes and there were no cancellations or late departures as compared to Rouen.
I walked without a map, saw an unusually tall and narrow building in front of the gare – it is called Tour
Perret, a 27-storey residential skyscraper. I was looking for signs of the cathedral, and soon its arches showed up. The cathedral is the tallest of the classic Gothic churches of the 13th century and is the largest in France of its kind. I went inside and marvelled at the immense space inside it, with huge stained glasses and columns, admirable statues and all the minor decorative elements. It stands to reason the three Gothic cathedrals (Notre Dame de Paris, Rouen, and Amiens) I saw look alike, but I was
equally impressed by all of them. There was a stand with a history line showing the major events which happened in the world at a certain time or year since the beginning of times till present - a perfect illustration to study history, I think, with all the global events at one glance.
Another deserving buildings were Logis du Roi and Maison du Sagittaire, Palace de Justice, Hotel de Ville. I then tried to find the Beffroi (belfry) – it is also mentioned in UNESCO World Heritage List within the group of 56 belfries of Belgium and France, quote in recognition of an architectural manifestation of emerging civic independence in historic Flanders and neighbouring regions from feudal and religious influences, leading to a degree of local democracy of great significance in the history of humankind unquote. Also I came across two other cathedrals in a poorer state. According to the information read before the trip, there would be Venice-like channels and small colourful wooden buildings, which I managed to find quite soon. Really, the picture was spectacular and calming. The district is called Saint-Leu, offering a number of public catering facilities on the river bank, and an
original statue of a man in white shirt standing in the river ‘L’Homme sur sa Bouée’, authored by Stephan Balkenhol, a German sculptor.
Next to this area were the hortillonnages, ‘gardens on small islands in the marshland between the River Somme and River Avre, surrounded by a grid network of man-made canals. They are also known as the "floating gardens of Amiens". Because of the canals, the hortillonnages are sometimes called "Little Venice of the North’.
I returned back to the station and returned to Paris; Luda meanwhile was watching tennis at Hotel de Ville square. I bought several more books at the Gilbert Joseph shop and found an excellent though tiny English bookshop near St. Michel where books were crowding on each other. I’d be happy to buy the whole lot, but bought only three Wodehouse novels, one of which turned out an already known title. It was the most abundant choice of English books I ever saw.
I felt a bit fed up with the hustle and noise in the street and already wanted to leave Paris; planned visiting either Chartres (a town with a Gothic Cathedral), Compiegne (a
chateau), St. Germaine en Laye (a suburb), or Malmaison (Napoleon’s and Josephine’s nest) on Saturday or Sunday, eventually visiting none. Luda would not go there because of her cold.
June 8 and 9
I did nothing the whole day, only rested in the park near Porte d’Auteil waiting for Luda’s return after the women’s final tennis match, read a small book of American Indian songs and poems and listened to French radio. The next day was also uneventful, Paris weather changed to wet and cloudy, windy and colder than before (I would like to thank the gods of weather for exceptionally good weather during our stay). We packed our belongings, with half the rucksack occupied by books and made three times heavier.
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