…I see another alley to my left, and with a few good turns of luck, I stumble easily upon the place I’m staying. Bonnetable is a charming country town with about 10,000 people. As I arrive at Le Charme (the farm estates in France are identified by name, not by a random/approximate address like 17500), Franc is outside to greet me. He flashes a grin and recognizes me as his unmistakable American traveler and house guest. Though most places in Europe gently ask you to remove your shoes, out in the country they often have stone floors and don’t really bother with it. The home is more than 100 years old, and situated in the between huge expanses of agricultural fields that must have fed the village generations ago. Franc planted most of the trees on
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