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Published: July 17th 2012
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Just arriving at Millau
Millau Viaduct in the background. We arrived at the Tarn Gorge area not really believing the hype in the guide books and found another recommended campsite alongside the river, at the beginning of the most beautiful part of the Gorge at Le Rozier Peyreleau. The campsite was great; it is a pity that we cannot thank the Brummies who gave us a handwritten list of their favourite sites.
We saw the usual night market where we bought some extremely expensive tapenade and spent most of the evening with a glass of wine listening to a group playing almost exclusively Beatles songs. They finished at 10.00pm but encored by several, especially Terry, they continued with another two songs.
Michelle had wanted to see and go over the Millau Viaduct which is the tallest bridge in the world. It is a magnificent sight as we saw when we were arriving. However, going across it was a different matter for Terry, who does not like heights. Of course, Michelle gets her way and, although the toll was €8.60, we set off, Terry determined to only look straight ahead. Although it is very impressive as you approach, being on the bridge was not, as the view is somewhat
Scene of our Disaster from the Brochure.
Since the time of this photo the 'toboggan run' has become dilapidated , the wall is no longer in existance and it has rocks in the centre. hidden by the barrier, presumably on purpose.
We wanted to see the Tarn Gorge and considered going partway by canoe as there are many for hire. However, as the next day was a little overcast we decided to do the whole 25 miles by car. This Gorge is not just good but stunning, far more dramatic than the Dordogne and as it says in the guidebook "makes the Cheddar Gorge seem like a crack". It is hard to describe but, of all we have seen, it is only beaten by the ridiculously awesome Grand Canyon. At the other end of the Gorge is the delightful village of Sainte Enimie where we had a crepe and a coffee. We took many photos now sadly lost, as you will hear.
Next day we were ready to canoe and the nearest place to hire was within walking distance. We were taken by van to a village 9 miles up the Tarn River. They had asked about our canoeing experience, as part of the river where we were going was described as "lively". Those of you who have known us for some time will remember that we nearly drowned in the Moselle
River many years ago when our canoe overturned going down a 'log flume' and our expensive camera was ruined. So we were dutifully careful.
At the start is a small weir but we were told it was no problem, to just hold our hands in the air, as we would get wet but laugh. Life jackets and helmets were obligatory and a girl put our camera etc into a sealed barrel fixed to the canoe. We were even given string to tie our expensive sunglasses behind our heads, they think of everything (especially as Michelle's were two weeks old and cost €200). Off we went as the girl bid us a cheery "Bonne route".
We straight away had to cross the weir. We went up close and identified the best spot as being the place shown in the brochure. So off we paddled and over we went excitedly accelerating and then hit a rock and went sideways on. Inevitably the canoe turned over. Now it was like being in a washing machine and we could not move but were stuck half way down the weir, underwater, with the canoe on top of us jammed on a rock. The
A Street in Sainte Enimie
Found on Michelle's iPhone. pressure of water on top of the canoe was immense and Terry was struggling to get out or get his feet on the ground. He remembers thinking 'I have been underwater for nearly a minute now and I cannot last much longer'. He was trapped, nothing to grip, nothing to push against and it was too difficult to even move, it was desperate. Michelle was in a similar position and worried how Terry was. Eventually she managed to get out and saw Terry's hand sticking out from under the canoe trying to grasp something. With great effort Michelle yanked the canoe off Terry who, as you can imagine was coughing and spluttering but very grateful, he would never have goy out alone.
The canoe was now upside down several yards downstream and the paddles out of sight. Terry reached the canoe which was stuck on a rock and turned it upright. A small boy who was swimming had retrieved one paddle and Terry left Michelle, who was not feeling happy about getting back into the canoe, whilst he paddled after the second, finding some children with it 400 metres downstream.
Whilst he waited for Michelle he checked the 'sealed barrel' which was full of water with the camera at the bottom. The girl had not fully sealed it. Michelle was distraught seeing the ruined camera when she caught up. After a few minutes sorting ourselves out Michelle said "Where are your Ray Bans?".
The rest of the trip was exciting but uneventful and although we went down one lot of rapids backwards and were thoroughly wet, we arrived back in one piece and glad to be able to walk back to our caravan. There is, of course, no photographic record of the proceedings!
That evening the shock of it hit us as we were both feeling really down. This has not been our most successful holiday maybe we should head home. Perhaps we would feel better in the morning. Michelle went to sleep and Terry hit the red wine.
When we awoke Michelle's arm had swollen up and looked like she had been bitten. Terry had two small black eyes where we guessed he had been hit in the face where his sunglasses had been.
A few days later and we were both refreshed (well Michelle's arm was still swollen) it is only money, and off we set for a campsite near Clermont Ferrand.
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Janette Jones
non-member comment
OMG
What an adventurous pair you are living life on the edge. And what a terrifing moment when you were stuck in the canoe thank god for Michelle. I see that health and safety isnt big over there is it letting you go down that flume. I hope you wont be going on it again. Your caravan and awning look so cosy, im afraid you wouldnt have been allowed to put your washing out on lines at the caravan park we worked at maybe its an English thing i dont know but our boss used to go round telling to take them down. Love your photos you both look fab. Take care. xx