From colorful Provence to The (blackened)Dordogne


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Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Conques
July 14th 2010
Published: July 22nd 2010
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Our trusty little Opel behaved well, and our Ian is such a good driver, back in manual and on the left hand side and together we managed the French road signs ,---no easy task, but we had no disasters, thank you Lord.
We tried using the i-phone as a gps but reverted to a hard copy map, give the girl a map that she can turn upside down and around and everything will be fine,---anyway all roads lead to Rome ,--don´t they????
We have come to realise we really are a mean team, we can conquer whatever comes, just have to always remember to --laugh about it all as we go, travelling is a bit of a job ,from time to time!!
So much to think about!
Ian insisted we go down via Avignon and see the bridge I had been singing about for the last week, so that we did, it was beaut to see and I(and a bus load of Japanese tourists) of course got out took a few Nikkons (as they do) and sung a couple of bars, ---as I did( they looked at me like I was mad)!!!
Then we headed off to the west towards Entraygues sur la Truyere, stopping on the way for our picnic and a little siesta.
Entraygues is a medieval village up in the Pyreenees mountains, built over 2 surging rivers that supply the Ayeron region with all their electricity. Its origins date back 900 years, so as you can imagine, full of history, narrow winding lanes and streets, all the houses adjoined with their big heavy shutters, lauze tiled roof tops and all quite grey after colorful Provence!
Our accom over on the other side of the river at an apartment block rated 7.5/10, but it did have a lovely balcony which overlooked the valleyand the town and was only a 5 min walk into the village.
From Entraygues we did our day trip to Conques and a beautiful mountain hike which we really enjoyed, it was so lovely and cool, a little respite form the heat, that we both really enjoyed!!

Conques---WOW, one of Frances treasures--- A magnificent Medieval Romanesque Abbey built into the side of the mountain, with 100 ft high vaulted ceilings, 3 exquisite bell towers, all created and built from the 10-12th century, by the minds and hands of the monks--------when we walked in it took your breathe away, there was little or no gilt or ornamentation, in fact it was the simplicity of it that made it sooo very peaceful and with a purity of beauty that I had never seen in a church before---very very special, of course at some stage their had been all the usual ornamentation, but no longer!
This was a place Ian and I had read about many years ago, so it was so wonderful to be there and --that it lived up to everything we had imagined plus more.
We both had noted the Tympanum as we entered the Abbey, so when we had completed our visit inside and through the grounds we came and sat outside and spent a very special hour and half, with a book of explaination and dissected the Tympanum, piece by piece and analised it´s meaning, it was like having a new age rteligious lesson, ---so much of what they had sculptured for this Typanum, for over the Abbey door, over a thousand years ago, were the messages we all need and in many cases try to live by today.
It was a wonderful hour and half of pure holiday, retirement, cause we could and we wanted to time!!!!
Thanks to the Lord, for it all!!

Next day after our hike we hopped into our Opel and headed westward toward Sarlat, our next little stop in the Dordogne, but of course with a picnic and siesta stop along the way, under a shady tree, on the edged of a vineyard.
Cést la vie !!


Le chef and driver found their way into Sarlat Dordogne and our little 9.5/10 apartment right in the heart of the 12th century medieval village and with the most gorgeous little balcony overlooking the main street, giving the locals much entertainment, at each meal time in our Balinese sarongs!
We loved Sarlat right form the moment we arrived, yes it was busier than Provence, but it did have a great feel about it, don´t know what it was , just something said we were going to love Sarlat, and that we did!!
In fact this turned out to be one of those stops we will never forget!!!

Sarlat was founded by Pippin the short, Charlemagnes father, back in the 12th century, it is one of Frances best preserved Medieval towns and was built by the Bourgois set, who would have their Chateaus in the countryside, but then would build their ornate and beautiful townhouse in Sarlat, which they would visit only on market day to get all the local gossip, the more ornate their house was, the more important they were within the community.
The houses here once again were so different from Provence or Entraygues, you could see the oppulence, in comparison, with the decorative mouldings, the corbels, gargoyles and leadlight windows and of course the heavy lauzed roof tops (some weighing over 300 tons!!)all giving it so much character and bourgois style.

Settled into our little dream apt, Le Presidial and then headed down to the main square for a little local vino and to enjoy the local summer entertainment.
Then home for dinner on our balcony(including some Fois Grais, of course) and a few more vinos, we have found the wines excellent and sooo cheap, helps to justify why we occasionally drink a little more I suppose!
Now for those who don´t know Dordogne region is the home of Fois Grais, so for our 5 days we had it at every opportunity, well until we passed a field of Geese and we learn´t about the process of how it is made, the poor geese, they don´t stand a chance!!The force feeding process leaves alot to be desired, just for us gourmands to have some pleasure?
But just the same it is very good, so many variaties, in Sarlat there are Fois Grais shops, stands and memorabilia/souveniors everywhere, must say I do love geese as animal characters and I was quite tempted at times with certain things , but with the 29ers (the back packs) thought it was probably better just to keep eating the memory!!
And that we did, it went from good to better to best, but we enjoyed it all!!

Took ourselves out the next morn to see one of Frances very special attractions, an excellent exhibition of the Troglodite peoples cave dwellings and their art, who had lived in this region millions of years ago, all quite amazing.
Ian loved all the tools and how they made and built it all--- Jean-Pierre Le Engineer!!!!

Then we headed back into Sarlat for our little daily siesta and then got ourselves all frocked up to go and meet some friends of our Best man and very best mate Mern.
Carolyn and Howard, who live in France a few hours from Sarlat and under duress from Mern had kindly agreed to come down and visit us for dinner.Howard and Mern had travelled together form UK to Australia in a Double Decker bus some years back, so we were keen to meet Howard and hear a few more of the infamous bus stories and something of their lives, living in France.
At our rendevous, arrived not only Carolyn and Howard, but their trusty Border collies Moss and Fleur and supposedly a good girlfriend from England, named- Anne, seemed a nice lady!??
Then off down to the square we headed to find a spot for a pre dinner drink, just about to order and --------OMG---------- a strange looking Niger/Abo looking character hobbled, on crutches onto the scene singing at the top of his voice -----¨Waltzing Matilda¨ -------OMG ------and who should it be but one of the most invincible, inimitable,encouragble and adorable of the worlds characters---- but our very bestest mate Mern ,he and Jenny (alias Anne) had travelled all the way from England,via Carolyn and Howards to be part of this big suprise and that it was, we should have guessed, but it completely slipped us and here we were in Sarlat France in the main square, with 2 dogs, a blackened man on crutches and 3 of his dear friends,---we couldn´t believe it!!!!
I always knew Mern was special, but now I know he´s more than that, he´s unique and such a wonderful friend!
after much laughter we went on to enjoy a very posh restaurant who we,re sure would have prefered to turn us away but couldn´t resist the bill, so they found a spot out of site from most other patrons and where our laughter would hopefully be subdued, but by the end of the night, they loved us and Moss and Fleur and they adored, in fact gave kisses to our Niger/Abo!!
It was awonderful night, full of lots of good stories and a few seniors moments in between and i remember quite a few glasses of wine being enbibed.

Next morn E and I did the local market then a walking Historical tour of Sarlat then met the UK troups for lunch and a few more ales.
Carolyn, had very kindly bought E and i a truffle to take along on our travels, which we have not had the right opportunity to try yet, but I think a first will be a little slice in tomorrow mornings omelette, symbolic as it will be our last meal in Europe, thanks again Carolyn, that was such a kind gesture, particulary after everything else you had done for us in the last 24hours.
From there C and H said their farewells and headed for home.
Mern and Jenny (alias Anne) headed off to find a place to pitch their tent for the night.
And we went shopping as we had Mern and Jenny coming for dinner!!!
We had a lovely night, once again but this time had a chance to catch up on some more intimate details of life , and including a video and photos of Mern and Jenny´s latest trips to Niger.

Come sometime after 12, we said our sad farewells and then Ian and I sat on the balcony and laughed, reminised about how wonderful the last 48 hours had been and how love and friendship really are two of lifes most important things to treasure!!
Thankyou Mern, we will never forget those days!!

Next day ,continuing to remember all the funny moments we took ourselves off on a cruise down the Dordogne and to some amazing scultured gardens,which were just all done with some 150,000 boxwoods and are now maintained by 9 fulltime gardeners.

Then came our day to Bon Voyage to our beautiful France and Salute´Espagne!!
Farewell to our little Opel and on with the 29ers --Bayonne-Irun--San Sebastion Spain, olay,olay, here we come !!!



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25th July 2010

Hi travellers glad you have loved France (who in their right mind couldnt) sound like its all happening and that u are have such a good time note the GPS thing its not easy!!!! meeting up with friends sounded good as well. We are at the gold coast at a very plush appartment with al that you could wish for. AND its much warmer that Sydney .Swam before brunch then reading walking and a little discovery amd shop before dinnner tonight not too hard to take. Alls well at home and I have managed to do quite a bit of sewing so far (my sister came and helped me with some lessons etc before we came up here) . Keep well and keep enjoying your travels Mand J.
26th July 2010

Wow!
Wow! Oh Wow oh WOW! Thanks for all the news and fascinating history and good to see your Niger Abbo friend LOL cheers Pennie

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