Getting to Mont. St-Michel

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I remember when I saw the D-Day beaches something like 7 years ago telling the person I was with that we should go down to Mont. St-Michel, since it was only like an hour away. But we didn't have time, and ever since then, Mont. St-Michel has been lingering in the back of my mind, nagging and pulling at me to get back here. Finally, today I did just that. It wasn't easy, though.

It involved leaving bright and early from Amboise, taking 4 train transfers, arriving in Pontorson, throwing my bags into my hotel room, and then catching one of the last buses the 15 minutes to Mont. St-Michel. Then, since it's Sunday, I had to hike up to the abbey before 6, when the last person is admitted. But it all went well. It sounds corny, but a huge grin came over my face when I saw the abbey rising up from its island perch. There's something just so extremely satisfying in finally arriving at a place you've literally been wanting to come for nearly a decade.

What also added to this feeling is the fact that Mont. St-Michel is another one of Europe's great pilgrimage sites, a lot like Santiago de Compostela in Spain. For centuries, ever since the Archangel Michael told a local bishop to build an abbey on a deserted island in the 8th century, pilgrims have come from the far corners to see this beautiful place. And now I've seen it. Walking the same stone steps as all of those countless pilgrims down the centuries - one of travel's great feelings, to connect to such a human past in this way.

Mont. St-Michel is, though, a huge tourist spot, and the single street up to the abbey is clogged with horrendous tourist shops. It honestly looks like all-powerful Tourism threw-up all over this little street, with tackiness and neon nearly blinding you. Grotesque is a good word. But the abbey at the very top makes up for it all. It's honestly just another one of those magical places in the world, where you can't help feeling inspired and moved just by being here. It's like all of history and human experience converge in certain places, and this is certainly one of them. To be, briefly, part of something far greater than yourself is, I think, the supreme lesson of travel - it's the very reason why I go through the many hassles and annoyances of getting around the world.

Also had an incredible meal tonight in Pontorson. The best grilled ham and frites, with cider (Normandy has no wine), and a patine, all finished with a strawberry cake. C'etait tres bon. Tomorrow I make the easy train ride down to Paris.

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Photos

There It Is!
Mont. St-Michel rising up in the distance. Under construction with a bridge to reach the mainland.

Abbey Close-Up
Right at the top, with Michael topping off the spire.

Walking In
Have to walk up the causeway to the main gate, and then up, up to the abbey.

Up and Up
Endless stairs, and a lot of keeled over tourists. This is the last flight of stairs.

Where I Came From
Pontorson is 8km that way. The river separates Normandy from Brittany. They just dammed it up - you can see the dam out there somewhere.

Stunning Views
Looking out towards Brittany.

Entrance to Church
Church used to come out to this view balcony, but it burned down in the 1700s.

Another View
The tides here come in extremely fast - the second fastest in the world. People have died, getting stuck out there.

Looking Up By Altar
That's Michael slaying evil demons. Gothic apse.

Adam and Eve Leaving
Kicked out of Eden by the angel. Just liked this sculpture.

Abbey Cloister
Where the monks meditated and grew vegetables.

Prayer Area in Abbey
Liked this because of the Greek Alpha and Omega. Never seen this. From the Bible: "I am the Alpha and the Omega. The beginning and the end."

Out Towards Normandy
The D-Day beaches are just over that way.

People Walking Away
I guess they're heading for the island. Have to go with a guide to manage the tides.

Leaving the Abbey
Sad to go.